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ATF for AW-4 Q!?

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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 01:19 AM
  #1  
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Default ATF for AW-4 Q!?

Hi Guys, I am new to the Jeep world and was checking the ATF on my Jeep. The color is in between yellow and brown, so lets say light brown color with yellow shade and smells burnt. Questions I had in mind;
  1. Should I change the oil based on its appearance and smell (and I am sure it has not been changed for a while)?
  2. What is the proper way of checking the ATF fluid level?
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 01:32 AM
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You want to use Dexron III/ Mercon only. To check, warm it up and check it in park or neutral. You want the fluid to be a nice, clear cherry red.
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 04:52 AM
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If it looks/smells like that you need to change the filter also.
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
If it looks/smells like that you need to change the filter also.
What should be the color of new oil? Are you saying that if it is "light brown color with yellow shade and smells burnt", then change the filter as well?
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 07:28 AM
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Default AW4 fluid

That fluid sounds bad and ALL of it should come out. Draining will only net half the capacity or less.
You would need to drain and fill 3 or more times to displace the old stuff.
There is also a method of disconnecting the cooler line from radiator and letting the AW4 pump out it's fluid while replacing it with fresh through the dipstick at the same time. I have used this technique after a drain and fill, to clear out the torque converter. I buy a case of 12 U.S. quarts to do it. Then I'm good to go for years.

Good on, Mate
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
That fluid sounds bad and ALL of it should come out. Draining will only net half the capacity or less.
You would need to drain and fill 3 or more times to displace the old stuff.
There is also a method of disconnecting the cooler line from radiator and letting the AW4 pump out it's fluid while replacing it with fresh through the dipstick at the same time. I have used this technique after a drain and fill, to clear out the torque converter. I buy a case of 12 U.S. quarts to do it. Then I'm good to go for years.

Good on, Mate
Yeah. The trans pan has a plug. The "filter" is actually a screen and doesn't need replacing.

Drain and fill, drain and fill, drain and fill a week or so apart. You'll be fine.
FWIW, instructions for checking the fluid leverl are embossed on the trans dipstick.
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by saturnks
What should be the color of new oil?
VVV

Originally Posted by scottmphoto
You want the fluid to be a nice, clear cherry red.
you could also just open the bottle and look inside.



And when they r saying, "get it warm and check in N or P", they are referring to transmission temp. The engine will get to operating temp idling but the trans won't unless u drive it. If u look on the dipstick, there is a "hot" and a "cold" mark. If the trans fluid feels hot or pretty warm to the touch then read the hot mark. If u havent drove it or only drove for a couple miles, check the cold mark. They say, on average it takes around 10-15 miles to get to operating temp on the trans.... depending on driving style, ambient temp... yada yada yada...
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by scottmphoto
You want to use Dexron III/ Mercon only. To check, warm it up and check it in park or neutral. You want the fluid to be a nice, clear cherry red.
Yep. Red color indicates condition of fluid. Brownish-yellow means you need filter and fluid. It'll be best money you spend on trans. longevity. Some places try to sell you a trans. flush where they pump fluid into you trans. under pressure to wash it out, but don't do it. I had a Ford Contour I did that to and ended up with a new trans. within a few months. Just do the 'drop the pan' change with a new filter and gaskets.
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by colt44
Yep. Red color indicates condition of fluid. Brownish-yellow means you need filter and fluid. It'll be best money you spend on trans. longevity. Some places try to sell you a trans. flush where they pump fluid into you trans. under pressure to wash it out, but don't do it. I had a Ford Contour I did that to and ended up with a new trans. within a few months. Just do the 'drop the pan' change with a new filter and gaskets.
No need to drop the pan!! There is not a filter in there, but a screen which was never specified to be changed. Why go to all the trouble?
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 08:27 PM
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With new filter, will I need more than 4L ATF?
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
No need to drop the pan!! There is not a filter in there, but a screen which was never specified to be changed. Why go to all the trouble?
You mean to say, the filter/screen is not required to be replaced?
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 08:57 PM
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Nope. It's just a screen to keep the big chunks out. You can change it if it'll make you feel better, but you don't have to.
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by scottmphoto
Nope. It's just a screen to keep the big chunks out. You can change it if it'll make you feel better, but you don't have to.
Um.... No
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Rollincoal420
Um.... No
Um...... Yes lol

The screen is really just for bigger chunks if the scenario happens that junks come off somewhere in the tranny. It doesn't actually filter like what a oil filter would do.
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Rollincoal420
Um.... No
Oh yeah!! Drain and fill. Repeat. No need to fight the pan, gasket, screen at all. Just the plug. That's why they made it that way.......
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