ATF for AW-4 Q!?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 35
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From: Australia
Year: 1996 (Built'95)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Petrol
Hi Guys, I am new to the Jeep world and was checking the ATF on my Jeep. The color is in between yellow and brown, so lets say light brown color with yellow shade and smells burnt. Questions I had in mind;
- Should I change the oil based on its appearance and smell (and I am sure it has not been changed for a while)?
- What is the proper way of checking the ATF fluid level?
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 957
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From: Russellville, Arkansas
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6
You want to use Dexron III/ Mercon only. To check, warm it up and check it in park or neutral. You want the fluid to be a nice, clear cherry red.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 35
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From: Australia
Year: 1996 (Built'95)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Petrol
Beach Bum
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,123
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That fluid sounds bad and ALL of it should come out. Draining will only net half the capacity or less.
You would need to drain and fill 3 or more times to displace the old stuff.
There is also a method of disconnecting the cooler line from radiator and letting the AW4 pump out it's fluid while replacing it with fresh through the dipstick at the same time. I have used this technique after a drain and fill, to clear out the torque converter. I buy a case of 12 U.S. quarts to do it. Then I'm good to go for years.
Good on, Mate
You would need to drain and fill 3 or more times to displace the old stuff.
There is also a method of disconnecting the cooler line from radiator and letting the AW4 pump out it's fluid while replacing it with fresh through the dipstick at the same time. I have used this technique after a drain and fill, to clear out the torque converter. I buy a case of 12 U.S. quarts to do it. Then I'm good to go for years.
Good on, Mate
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
That fluid sounds bad and ALL of it should come out. Draining will only net half the capacity or less.
You would need to drain and fill 3 or more times to displace the old stuff.
There is also a method of disconnecting the cooler line from radiator and letting the AW4 pump out it's fluid while replacing it with fresh through the dipstick at the same time. I have used this technique after a drain and fill, to clear out the torque converter. I buy a case of 12 U.S. quarts to do it. Then I'm good to go for years.
Good on, Mate
You would need to drain and fill 3 or more times to displace the old stuff.
There is also a method of disconnecting the cooler line from radiator and letting the AW4 pump out it's fluid while replacing it with fresh through the dipstick at the same time. I have used this technique after a drain and fill, to clear out the torque converter. I buy a case of 12 U.S. quarts to do it. Then I'm good to go for years.
Good on, Mate
Drain and fill, drain and fill, drain and fill a week or so apart. You'll be fine.
FWIW, instructions for checking the fluid leverl are embossed on the trans dipstick.
VVV
you could also just open the bottle and look inside.
And when they r saying, "get it warm and check in N or P", they are referring to transmission temp. The engine will get to operating temp idling but the trans won't unless u drive it. If u look on the dipstick, there is a "hot" and a "cold" mark. If the trans fluid feels hot or pretty warm to the touch then read the hot mark. If u havent drove it or only drove for a couple miles, check the cold mark. They say, on average it takes around 10-15 miles to get to operating temp on the trans.... depending on driving style, ambient temp... yada yada yada...
you could also just open the bottle and look inside.
And when they r saying, "get it warm and check in N or P", they are referring to transmission temp. The engine will get to operating temp idling but the trans won't unless u drive it. If u look on the dipstick, there is a "hot" and a "cold" mark. If the trans fluid feels hot or pretty warm to the touch then read the hot mark. If u havent drove it or only drove for a couple miles, check the cold mark. They say, on average it takes around 10-15 miles to get to operating temp on the trans.... depending on driving style, ambient temp... yada yada yada...
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Yep. Red color indicates condition of fluid. Brownish-yellow means you need filter and fluid. It'll be best money you spend on trans. longevity. Some places try to sell you a trans. flush where they pump fluid into you trans. under pressure to wash it out, but don't do it. I had a Ford Contour I did that to and ended up with a new trans. within a few months. Just do the 'drop the pan' change with a new filter and gaskets.
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Yep. Red color indicates condition of fluid. Brownish-yellow means you need filter and fluid. It'll be best money you spend on trans. longevity. Some places try to sell you a trans. flush where they pump fluid into you trans. under pressure to wash it out, but don't do it. I had a Ford Contour I did that to and ended up with a new trans. within a few months. Just do the 'drop the pan' change with a new filter and gaskets.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 35
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From: Australia
Year: 1996 (Built'95)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Petrol
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From: salem, OR
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0


