On the older Jeeps, they used steel lines that have a lot of tight bends. If you look close in the picture (link) below you can see the lines. Mine are really rusty. Can't believe they don't leak. Does anyone make replacements? I only need the steel lines. I don't want to go with a 'manual' control setup.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/84-90-Jeep-Cherokee-Front-Axle-Differential-Vacuum-Disconnect-Actuator-Harness/182451097206?hash=item2a7aeece76:g:3HgAAOSwm3paA3G G&vxp=mtr

Thanks

 

How about one of these, no vacuum lines to worry about.
https://www.quadratec.com/products/5...iABEgI6rfD_BwE

 

or swap in a solid axle on that side instead of the 2 piece deal

 

Find some brake line and just bend to what you need.

 

I might have to. There are a number of tight bends that would be tough to make look nice and stock, even with a bender (which I have). But that might be my best option.

If you see anything, plz let me know. Thanks

 

If you do, use copper-nickel tubing. It's easy to work and never rusts.

 

What we used to do on the old pre-1985 AMC Eagles that had front axle disconnect was to remove and plug the vacuum lines and permanently clamp the disconnect mechanism in the connected position. This gave the same effect as having the later non-disconnect axle found in the later models. (Of course the Eagle had IFS but the principle is the same.)

http://amceaglesden.com/guide/Front_Axle_Lock

 

Yes. 20 minute job. Here's how. there is no down side.

t is very easy to do and I would say it takes about an hour.
The only tools required are a 11mm socket, jack, some gasket maker, gear oil, and something to get the c-clips on/off.
Jack up the passengers side and locate your CAD assembly. It is the weird looking piece on the passenger side axle tube with three vacuum lines running to it. Yours (hopefully) wont be as dirty.


Next step is to put a catch can underneath it, get your 11mm wrench/ratchet/whatever and loosen the bottom two bolts a few turns. Allow most/all of the gear oil to run out (a couple ounces). You can now remove all four bolts.

Once you have the disconnect assembly off, clean it up and get something around to remove the C-clip. I honestly think the removal of the C-clip was the hardest part. Be careful as it WILL go flying and be hard to find.


Move the shift fork over past where the clip usually rides and then reinstall the clip. Your shift fork is now in the "locked" position.


For the next step, go back out to your jeep. You will need to move the locking collar over into the "locked" position. You may have to rotate the tire to get the splines to line up. You will know you have it if the driveshaft spins when you rotate the passengers side tire.


Clean the mating surfaces of the shift motor and axle disconnect area. Install a thin bead of RTV or gasket maker of your choice. (I got away without using it, but its highly recommended)

Install the shift motor being sure the fork lines up with the collar. Tighten the 4 bolts in a criss-cross or hex pattern a little at a time being sure not to tighten them too much and strip the holes out.

You are done! Check your gear oil before your first ride, you may need to add a couple ounces since some was lost when the CAD assembly was taken off.

So far I have had no bad vibes or extra noise from the front driveshaft rotating. Keep in mind this is supposed to be a "temporary" fix, but I have heard of people running this way for years. My 4wd now works like it should and I am very happy overall with it.

 

Thanks, I've had mine apart before, so it makes sense, ...a good tutorial for others who are in a pinch or want permanent engaged axle.

I want to retain the ability to freewheel the axle for longer drives though.

 

Nah. Waste of time and effort for virtually no return.