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98 XJ wouldn't start. Now starts but won't idle and dies.

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Old 09-19-2011, 07:38 PM
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Default 98 XJ wouldn't start. Now starts but won't idle and dies.

I'll try and get all the details in here. Did a search and no one thread covers my particular symptoms. 1998 Cherokee XJ 4.0 inline 6 cylinder. -- Two days ago wouldn't start. Slowly cranked and then just a clicking sound. I jumped it and it started. Next time I tried it wouldn't start. Jumped it. Noticed that radio presets were lost...consistent with dead battery. Put a charger on it for 2 hours. Started fine. Drove it and returned home. Put charger on battery overnight. Cleaned battery terminals and connectors. Next morning it cranked slow and then just the clicking. No start. At this point I'm thinking replace battery. Later I try to start it again and it slowly cranks. I give it some gas and it starts then immediately dies. I start it again the same way and hold the gas pedal down. It stays running so long as I hold the gas pedal down. If I let up on the pedal it dies instantly. I look on here...maybe cps, tcm, etc... I get underneath it see if I can find the cps or see a loose battery connection. Don't really touch anything. Try it again. Same thing: slow crank...give it gas and it starts...dies if I don't hold the gas pedal down. I run it for awhile with the gas pedal depressed and try to start again but the problem is the same. I try again a few minutes later for the hell of it and now it starts fine and idles fine. I've tried it a few times in the last hour and it seems fine...FOR NOW. ---additional info: I don't know a lot about cars but can do most stuff...I have no money so it's imperative to get it right as I can't buy a lot of parts. I need the car for my job hunt. Unemployed with no UEI and broke. So, hoping to get it figured out so I can get back to work. --- anyway, sounds like something is going out but can't figure out what. Weird that it's just fine right now. Ideas? Suggestions? Please keep in mind that I may need basic follow ups since I'm not used to doing a lot of work on this car...but I can do it. Help is appreciated.
Old 09-19-2011, 07:48 PM
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Default more info.

more info: Just stepped out to try it again after it'd been sitting 30 minutes or so. Problem back. This time---slow crank. Starts only with gas pedal depressed. Won't idle and will die if gas pedal not depressed. When it died I noticed that the dash lights were dim...such as the led Odometer lights, etc. Tried to start it again and, when it cranked over, I ran it at about 2000 rpms for a few minutes. Tried to start again...same problem..turned it off and tried again-- BOOM --- ran like a charm. Tried it like that a few more times and it ran fine...idled about about 800 rpm---no problem. UPDATE-- tried it again after 15 minutes and the lights were dim---it cranked slow and then just clicked. Would not start. So, back where I started (no pun intended)... I should mention that the battery gauge shows 14 amps when the engine is running...so it seems that the alternator is ok?

Last edited by rabakenz; 09-19-2011 at 08:50 PM. Reason: more info.
Old 09-20-2011, 09:38 AM
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Those are certainly symptoms of a bad battery. I would at least get it tested, and I would probably replace it. Testing the alternator would be a good idea as well, given some of the symptoms you are having after it starts (when it does). Most auto parts stores will do this testing for free.

If those check out ok, then you probably have a battery cable or something similar that is sucking up your power. You will have to break out the voltmeter and start working your way through the starting system.

Good luck!

Greg
Old 09-20-2011, 09:40 AM
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I agree with starting at the battery....sounds like a dead cell to me
Old 09-20-2011, 12:09 PM
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That's a tough one. I believe that's a VOLT meter, (goes from like 9 to 16?). If you are running and at 14 volts even with a bad battery it should run. You might want to look at and/or add grounds. (you see that ALLOT!)(I put extra grounds on mine).

Clean the main battery cable ground. Clean really well the braided ground from the back of your engine to the fire-wall. Some like to ADD a ground from the dip-stick tube to the shock mount.

Doesn't mean you don't have other problems, but you surely, without a doubt want to rule that out.

Can't he read codes off his dash? Don.

PS. Another symptom of bad grounds is smoke....coming out the ears of the owner

Last edited by DFlintstone; 09-20-2011 at 12:12 PM.
Old 09-25-2011, 05:33 PM
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Default Problem resolved...I believe.

At first I only figured it was the battery. But when it started that problem of dying I started to worry that it could be something else or something in addition to the battery. Long story short, I tested the battery. Found it wasn't good and replaced it. 1 month shy of the full replacement warranty so I had to pay. New battery and haven't had any problems since. Thanks to everyone who chimed in with advice and opinions.
Old 09-25-2011, 06:01 PM
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The #1 symptom of a "marginal" battery on the 4.0 is STALLING.

Keep this locked in your subconscious. I answered no less than 4 threads where this was the cause this week alone.
Old 01-30-2012, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by tjwalker
The #1 symptom of a "marginal" battery on the 4.0 is STALLING.

Keep this locked in your subconscious. I answered no less than 4 threads where this was the cause this week alone.
Hi TJ. My sons' 2001 Jeep Cherokee is having problems that may/may not be similar. Jeep starts/runs but won't start without adding a bit of pedal, and the same with idle: Won't idle without pedal. Also: he said a few days ago that if the Jeep sits for a few days the ammeter will either read low or high and the CEL illuminates, then at some point returns to normal. Do you think these problems are related? Where should I start looking?
Old 01-30-2012, 09:09 AM
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Default Hijack

After some thought it appears I may have unintentionally hijacked the thread. My bad.
Old 01-30-2012, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by waltermitty
Hi TJ. My sons' 2001 Jeep Cherokee is having problems that may/may not be similar. Jeep starts/runs but won't start without adding a bit of pedal, and the same with idle: Won't idle without pedal. Also: he said a few days ago that if the Jeep sits for a few days the ammeter will either read low or high and the CEL illuminates, then at some point returns to normal. Do you think these problems are related? Where should I start looking?
Is the check engine light or is it the check gauges that is lighting up? A check gauges light is not uncommon when voltage drops to a certain level, which may indicate a problem with your charging system (alternator most likely).

However, if it is a CEL, then it is always best to have the codes read for clues. Many parts stores like Autozone will read the codes for free if you don't have access to a code reader or a scan tool.

But back to the symptoms, yes......if it is stalling and you have fluctuating voltage, this could be an alternator issue. I usually verify charging performance by using a multimeter. Put one lead on each of the battery terminals; DC volts range. With a healthy charging system and battery, you should be in the 13.5 to 14.0 volt range (same reading should be on your dash voltage gauge)

Freshening all engine grounds and connections is never a bad idea as well as "load testing" the battery to be sure that it is up to snuff.

Last edited by tjwalker; 01-30-2012 at 09:52 AM.
Old 01-30-2012, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by tjwalker
Is the check engine light or is it the check gauges that is lighting up? A check gauges light is not uncommon when voltage drops to a certain level, which may indicate a problem with your charging system (alternator most likely).

However, if it is a CEL, then it is always best to have the codes read for clues. Many parts stores like Autozone will read the codes for free if you don't have access to a code reader or a scan tool.

But back to the symptoms, yes......if it is stalling and you have fluctuating voltage, this could be an alternator issue. I usually verify charging performance by using a multimeter. Put one lead on each of the battery terminals; DC volts range. With a healthy charging system and battery, you should be in the 13.5 to 14.0 volt range (same reading should be on your dash voltage gauge)

Freshening all engine grounds and connections is never a bad idea as well.
Thanks TJ! I'll check out those items and proceed as suggested. I'll let you know what I find.
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