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96 cherokee AT Transmission Shifting issues

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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 02:26 PM
  #1  
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Default 96 cherokee AT Transmission Shifting issues

I had my AW4 AT rebuilt about a year ago and about a month later it started having issues. When your driving around 55 or 60 mph it seems to be shifting down in 3rd you give it gas and it will go back into drive gear and just as soon as you let off the gas it will go back in 3rd? But if you pull over put it in gear and turn off the engine start back up and drive it works fine and then anout 5 or 10 miles down the road it will do the same thing. I have 377000 miles on it and it is running strong
Just need to figure out whats wrong with the tranny. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 04:02 PM
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If you haven't replaced the TPS, or at least checked it- now might be the time.
Problems that temporarily fix themselves when you cycle the ignition are almost always a sensor issue and the TPS has a lot of input into the AW4's shifting.
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Radi
If you haven't replaced the TPS, or at least checked it- now might be the time.
Problems that temporarily fix themselves when you cycle the ignition are almost always a sensor issue and the TPS has a lot of input into the AW4's shifting.
I will try that out thanks
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 05:55 PM
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I agree that the throttle position sensor is suspect. I'd test or replace it, and if it's original, I'd just replace it. Here's more on this important sensor. Good luck and keep us updated!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the denied acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.

Last edited by tjwalker; Feb 26, 2016 at 06:06 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by tjwalker
I agree that the throttle position sensor is suspect. I'd test or replace it, and if it's original, I'd just replace it. Here's more on this important sensor. Good luck and keep us updated!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the denied acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
Thanks TJ I will let you know..
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 96 country

Thanks TJ I will let you know..
I replaced to TPS and so far it seems to be shifting great.. Thanks for the advice !!
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 96 country

I replaced to TPS and so far it seems to be shifting great.. Thanks for the advice !!
I think i spoke to soon. It started doing it. Got out on the interstate today and around 55 65 mph got about 10 miles and it started doing the same thing. Any other advice on where to look next?

Last edited by 96 country; Mar 1, 2016 at 01:27 PM.
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 02:32 AM
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Is it the TCC (torque converter lockup) that's locking/unlocking? It's about a 300 RPM change when that happens.

Have you ever checked the TV cable for proper adjustment? See here:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/

Last edited by Radi; Mar 2, 2016 at 02:38 AM.
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Radi
Is it the TCC (torque converter lockup) that's locking/unlocking? It's about a 300 RPM change when that happens.

Have you ever checked the TV cable for proper adjustment? See here:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/
Good advice on the TV cable.

Next time it does it, just barely touch the brake pedal and see if it settles down.
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Radi
Is it the TCC (torque converter lockup) that's locking/unlocking? It's about a 300 RPM change when that happens.

Have you ever checked the TV cable for proper adjustment? See here:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/
I adjusted the TV cable no change.. I just ordered the solenoids one is supposed to be the lockup solenoid.. I will let you know if this helps..

Last edited by 96 country; Mar 4, 2016 at 01:20 PM.
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 03:12 PM
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Tps, same issue on a 2001
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 96 country

I adjusted the TV cable no change.. I just ordered the solenoids one is supposed to be the lockup solenoid.. I will let you know if this helps..
I replaced all 3 solenoids in the transmission and that fixed it. Shifts great and stays in OD on the interstate... Thanks for all the help everyone..
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 96 country
I replaced all 3 solenoids in the transmission and that fixed it. Shifts great and stays in OD on the interstate... Thanks for all the help everyone..
Thanks for the update.
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