aryx

Hi,

I'm buying a Jeep Cherokee today, it was driven yesterday, but when the steering wheel was tilted it wouldn't start.
Head lights goes on when you turn the key, but no sound from the starter motor.
I've heard this could be a typical problem with cherokees, do any of you have any information on how to fix this problem? What I've heard is that a wire has been pinched or pulled away from the ignition switch...
Could it be another problem? Need some advise on how to proceed with the troubleshooting. =)

Rgds

aryx

BuckB91XJ

Sounds like one of the ignition switch wires were pinched and broken or shorted when you tiltd the wheel

DagBMX

had this problem a few years ago. my cylinder actually went bad, and just needed to be replaced. it could possibly be a wire, though. you'd just have to go in with a ohm meter with the power off and check the connections.

aryx

Do you know if it's easy to fix this, and how to fix it?
I'm going to get the car in a hour or two, it's in a parkinglot and I'll try and fix the problem when I get there.
All information on how to get to the ignition switch and the wire would be great.

aryx

Could I use some of these instructions? (posted by trapper)
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/2-5...ocation-29614/

Removal & Installation


Without Air Bag


See Figures 1 and 2

The ignition switch is located on the lower part of the steering column.

Place the ignition in the LOCK position.

Fig. 1: Ignition/dimmer switch assembly
Remove any components necessary to access the switch.
Remove the two switch mounting screws.
Disconnect the switch from the rod.
Disconnect the wiring and remove the switch.
To install:


Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioning
On non-tilt columns:
Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered.
Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
On tilt columns:
Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position.
Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
Install any components removed for switch access.
With Air Bag


See Figures 3 through 9

CAUTION
Before performing this procedure, disable the air bag system (refer ). Failure to do so could result in accidental air bag deployment and possible injury.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and disable the air bag system.
If equipped, remove the tilt lever.
Remove the upper and lower steering column covers with a suitable Torx® driver.
Using Snap-On® tamper-proof bit TTXR20BO or equivalent, remove the ignition switch screws.

Fig. 3: Ignition switch mounting screw locations
Pull the ignition switch away from the column.
Release the 2 connector locks on the 7-terminal wiring connector and remove the connector from the ignition switch.

Fig. 4: Unplug the connector from the switch
Release the connector lock on the key-in-switch and halo light 4-terminal connector and remove the connector from the ignition switch.
Insert the key into the ignition lock and ensure it is in the LOCK position.
Using a small screwdriver, depress the key cylinder retaining pin so it is flush with the key cylinder surface.

Fig. 5: Key cylinder retaining pin
Turn the ignition key to the OFF position and the lock will release from its seated position.

Fig. 6: Unseat the lock cylinder ...

Fig. 7: ... then pull the cylinder from the switch
Do not remove the cylinder at this time.

Turn the key to the LOCK position and remove the key.
Remove the ignition lock.
To install:


Install the electrical connectors to the switch. Ensure the switch locking tabs are fully seated in the wiring connectors.
Mount the ignition switch to the column. The dowel pin on the ignition switch assembly must engage with the column park-lock slider linkage. Ensure the ignition switch is in the lock position (flag is parallel with the ignition switch terminals).

Fig. 8: View of the switch from the column
Apply a dab of grease to the flag and pin. Position the park-lock link and slider to mid-travel. Position the ignition lock against the lock housing face. Ensure the pin is inserted into the park-lock link contour slot and tighten the retaining screw.
With the ignition lock and switch in the LOCK position, insert the lock into the switch assembly until it bottoms.

Fig. 9: Ignition switch mounting pad
Assemble the column covers.
If equipped, install the tilt wheel lever.
Connect the negative battery cable.
From the right side of the vehicle (in case of accidental deployment), turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Check for proper air bag warning light operation.

ITSAJEEPXJTHING

Another thing to keep in mind. Being the older style tilt steering colum. Does it moves loosely? Sloppy from side to side? If it is the bushings may be wareing out, and the switch may have come out of adjustment.

Dont rule out a bad connection to battery, starter, or ground.

A test light is your friend.

I would probably start with using a test light on the trigger wire to the starter solinoid to see if it gets power when the key is turned.
If there is no power then go to ign. switch next.
If there is power then check all the cables to the starter, battery, and block.

Just another thought.

OverlandZJ

Tilting the steering wheel back to where it was didnt work?

Theres a rod that goes from a lever in the column from the cylinder.. check that this rod is seated where it goes into the switch down towards the firewall.

If you have to follow the adjustment procedure you posted above for pic 2.

aryx

It started on first try, but the start motor turned slowly.
The steering wheel is a bit loose, it moves a bit sideways - is that an easy fix?
When I turned on the wipers the rpm droped, so I didn't try it before I got home. The engine will stall if I don't give it some gas.

The handbrake signal is on even though the handbrake is off.
Check antilock is also on constantly.
When I pull the handbrake Check antilock turns off.
The lamp Part time started to glow after I got home, not sure what that's for.

Guess there are some electrical problems =)
The brakes are very hard, don't think the "servo" is working.

Guess I got some work to do the next days =)

aryx

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2257525...7623220743829/

87cherokee14

check your grounds!!!! my xj was doing funny things electrically after i installed my sub & amp, turned out my cousin never tightened the ground cable back to the post on the battery, it was just sitting on. tightened it up, and everything worked like a dream again

aryx

Yes, thanks, I'll do that, the strange thing is that the start motor was just as slow to turn the engine around after I had driven it 40 minutes. The battery and dynamo has been replaced with new parts. I guess the seller gave up on the car...

ITSAJEEPXJTHING

"It started on first try, but the start motor turned slowly."
Check, clean, and tighten your battery cables, bolth on the battery and where the other end attaches to the starter and the engine block.
You may need a battery, But start by charging that one.

"The steering wheel is a bit loose, it moves a bit sideways - is that an easy fix?"
Easiest way is to replace it with a good one out of the bone yard. I am fairly shure you can rebuild them, But they are a pain, and generally should be removed to do so anyway.

"When I turned on the wipers the rpm droped, so I didn't try it before I got home."
Might have something to do with how dead the battery is. Alternator is straining"

"The engine will stall if I don't give it some gas."
This could be anything. I would start with a good tuneup. maybe some new gas if its been sitting a long time.

"The lamp Part time started to glow after I got home, not sure what that's for."
It is a 4WD Indicator light.

"The brakes are very hard, don't think the "servo" is working."
They work on engine vaccume. It could be the boster itself, the brakes could be physically frozen, or whatever is causing the engine to run rough is also not allowing it to build vaccume. Being a 1990 its renix so it running rough could be timming related. thinking maybe fireing order is off.

ITSAJEEPXJTHING

"Yes, thanks, I'll do that, the strange thing is that the start motor was just as slow to turn the engine around after I had driven it 40 minutes. The battery and dynamo has been replaced with new parts. I guess the seller gave up on the car"

Check that fireing order and timming. The engine sounds like its fighting itself. Either that or you got bigger problems, but start with the easy one.

aryx

Thanks for the tips! They will help alot when I go to the bone yard.
About the stalling issue, the engine won't stall by itself, it was only when I turned on the wiper that i needed to give it some gas to keep it running.

I'll try and have a look at it tomrrow =)