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2.5TD starter motor location?

Old 11-22-2009, 12:05 PM
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Default 2.5TD starter motor location?

Hey guys, I know this is a bit of a noob question but; I've just got a UK 1997 XJ 2.5TD; It had the ignition mangled when someone stole it... When you turn the ignition (with a screwdriver now...) you get a click which sounds like a relay, but that's it, so i'm guessing there's a problem with the starter or solenoid.

I've looked online for a PDF of an engine bay layout or manual but can't find one - so can someone point me in the right direction? (or the direction of such a manual!)

Ta muchly
Old 11-23-2009, 10:47 AM
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I guess you guys don't do Diesels or UK models then? I'll keep looking then. Thanks anyway
Old 11-23-2009, 11:36 AM
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sorry, just found the post

a clickclickclick sounds like a dead battery.. or just too little juice to crank against the compression of a diesel motor.. every diesel I have ever owned has had 2 deep cycle batteries for that reason..

try a new battery

other than that, the starter should be somewhere on the bell-housing, attached to the back of the motor.. when you hit the key (screwdriver), a gear kicks out on a shaft and engages the flywheel.. so its gotta be there somewhere..

Good luck and come back.... please post a bunch of pics of your TD XJ. I would love to see them

sometimes it takes a day or 2 to have someone who might know or have a thought to see your post, so be patient.. thats better than stupid answers.. AND you can always find your post again.. down in the forum and post the work (bump) which takes it back to the top

welcome to the forum..
Old 11-23-2009, 04:04 PM
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Thanks for the reply Trapper dude...

I'm pretty sure i've found it (in the dark, so can't be sure...) it seems to be underneath the EGR valve, exhaust manifold, turbo, and goodness knows what so it'll be a pig to get to. Damn these VM engines

I guess it could be the battery - i'll put a booster pack on it and see if that helps. It just doesn't sound like quite 'enough' clicks to me for it to be that; hence hoping to get access to the starter so I could try bridging the terminals to see what happens!

I'll get some pics of the project done when I get some daylight time, thanks again.
Old 11-23-2009, 04:46 PM
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I was just thinking.. depending on the age and location of the truck.. corrosion might have crept into the wires, thereby reducing the potential power to the unit.. a booster pack might get you there.. but check the wires.. if the copper has turned green.. replace them too.

I dont know how to jump the potentially corroded wires.. but it might be worth trying

good luck
Old 11-23-2009, 05:12 PM
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Yeah good point - that's one to check - tho really since with the history of it being stolen and recovered a vaguely logical point is back up at the column and the ignition barrel/switch assembly thing. Dodgy contact? I might 'borrow' the one from my working XJ to test with... as long as I don't screw it up taking it out! How easy is it to remove the plastics around the column on a '95 XJ? any ideas?
Old 11-23-2009, 09:46 PM
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Default 1st post.. might be wrong.. dont know

Originally Posted by PinkyPunky
Yeah good point - that's one to check - tho really since with the history of it being stolen and recovered a vaguely logical point is back up at the column and the ignition barrel/switch assembly thing. Dodgy contact? I might 'borrow' the one from my working XJ to test with... as long as I don't screw it up taking it out! How easy is it to remove the plastics around the column on a '95 XJ? any ideas?
Replacement procedures are below for your ignition switch. These procedures are for vehicles equipped with air bag.


CAUTION: Before performing this procedure, disable the air bag system (refer ). Failure to do so could result in accidental air bag deployment and possible injury.

REMOVAL:
Disconnect the negative battery cable and disable the air bag system.
If equipped, remove the tilt lever.
Remove the upper and lower steering column covers with a suitable Torx® driver.
Using Snap-On® tamper-proof bit TTXR20BO or equivalent, remove the ignition switch screws.
Pull the ignition switch away from the column.
Release the 2 connector locks on the 7-terminal wiring connector and remove the connector from the ignition switch.
Release the connector lock on the key-in-switch and halo light 4-terminal connector and remove the connector from the ignition switch.
Insert the key into the ignition lock and ensure it is in the LOCK position.
Using a small screwdriver, depress the key cylinder retaining pin so it is flush with the key cylinder surface.
Turn the ignition key to the OFF position and the lock will release from its seated position.
Turn the key to the LOCK position and remove the key.
Remove the ignition lock.



INSTALLATION:
Install the electrical connectors to the switch. Ensure the switch locking tabs are fully seated in the wiring connectors.
Mount the ignition switch to the column. The dowel pin on the ignition switch assembly must engage with the column park-lock slider linkage. Ensure the ignition switch is in the lock position (flag is parallel with the ignition switch terminals).
Apply a dab of grease to the flag and pin. Position the park-lock link and slider to mid-travel. Position the ignition lock against the lock housing face. Ensure the pin is inserted into the park-lock link contour slot and tighten the retaining screw.
With the ignition lock and switch in the LOCK position, insert the lock into the switch assembly until it bottoms.
Assemble the column covers.
If equipped, install the tilt wheel lever.
Connect the negative battery cable.
From the right side of the vehicle (in case of accidental deployment), turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Check for proper air bag warning light operation.
Old 11-23-2009, 09:50 PM
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Default 2nd post.. dont know if this one is right either

Originally Posted by PinkyPunky
Yeah good point - that's one to check - tho really since with the history of it being stolen and recovered a vaguely logical point is back up at the column and the ignition barrel/switch assembly thing. Dodgy contact? I might 'borrow' the one from my working XJ to test with... as long as I don't screw it up taking it out! How easy is it to remove the plastics around the column on a '95 XJ? any ideas?
Removal & Installation


Without Air Bag


See Figures 1 and 2

The ignition switch is located on the lower part of the steering column.

Place the ignition in the LOCK position.

Fig. 1: Ignition/dimmer switch assembly
Remove any components necessary to access the switch.
Remove the two switch mounting screws.
Disconnect the switch from the rod.
Disconnect the wiring and remove the switch.
To install:


Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioning
On non-tilt columns:
Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered.
Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
On tilt columns:
Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position.
Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
Install any components removed for switch access.
With Air Bag


See Figures 3 through 9

CAUTION
Before performing this procedure, disable the air bag system (refer ). Failure to do so could result in accidental air bag deployment and possible injury.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and disable the air bag system.
If equipped, remove the tilt lever.
Remove the upper and lower steering column covers with a suitable Torx® driver.
Using Snap-On® tamper-proof bit TTXR20BO or equivalent, remove the ignition switch screws.

Fig. 3: Ignition switch mounting screw locations
Pull the ignition switch away from the column.
Release the 2 connector locks on the 7-terminal wiring connector and remove the connector from the ignition switch.

Fig. 4: Unplug the connector from the switch
Release the connector lock on the key-in-switch and halo light 4-terminal connector and remove the connector from the ignition switch.
Insert the key into the ignition lock and ensure it is in the LOCK position.
Using a small screwdriver, depress the key cylinder retaining pin so it is flush with the key cylinder surface.

Fig. 5: Key cylinder retaining pin
Turn the ignition key to the OFF position and the lock will release from its seated position.

Fig. 6: Unseat the lock cylinder ...

Fig. 7: ... then pull the cylinder from the switch
Do not remove the cylinder at this time.

Turn the key to the LOCK position and remove the key.
Remove the ignition lock.
To install:


Install the electrical connectors to the switch. Ensure the switch locking tabs are fully seated in the wiring connectors.
Mount the ignition switch to the column. The dowel pin on the ignition switch assembly must engage with the column park-lock slider linkage. Ensure the ignition switch is in the lock position (flag is parallel with the ignition switch terminals).

Fig. 8: View of the switch from the column
Apply a dab of grease to the flag and pin. Position the park-lock link and slider to mid-travel. Position the ignition lock against the lock housing face. Ensure the pin is inserted into the park-lock link contour slot and tighten the retaining screw.
With the ignition lock and switch in the LOCK position, insert the lock into the switch assembly until it bottoms.

Fig. 9: Ignition switch mounting pad
Assemble the column covers.
If equipped, install the tilt wheel lever.
Connect the negative battery cable.
From the right side of the vehicle (in case of accidental deployment), turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Check for proper air bag warning light operation.
Old 11-27-2009, 09:07 AM
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Thanks for the info on the ignition switch swap over Trapper didn't help tho... Tried to start it earlier with the ignition switch from the working jeep and a batter jump pack thing boosting the battery. Still nothing. Hmm. I guess i'll have to delve a bit deeper. Got another, different, bigger battery on charge atm to see if it's still not getting enough power to turn over.

I really wish that starter motor was easier to get to!
Old 10-05-2010, 03:55 PM
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i had the same problem..im almost 90 percent dure its the starter motor hit it with a big hammer while someone turns the key..it should try to make some type of noise
Old 10-05-2010, 03:57 PM
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im acualy trying to do an ignition switch in my 90 cherokee and can net get the cover off the steering colum ive got the steering whell off but dont kno were to go from here
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