Originally Posted by DFlintstone

If you have a bunch of blow-by, that little, I forget 2.4, or 2.6 mm orifice in the rear ccv vent is not sucking much of it. (I forget ,but academic)

I actually haven't done it, but I bet if I remove my oil cap then power brake my Jeep, I'd see a plume like a steam engine out the oil filler. Or at least a significant flow of ...something.

That 40# wet rise in #2 sounds like an issue....that said if the rear ccv doesn't have the 2.4? mm orifice that would mess things up, savy? Big vacuum leak sucking ...potentially oil, into the intake.

I'm really doing my darnedest here but I gotta say wait. Your data is wrong, does not compute. One quart in 50-100 miles, no leak, no smoke?

U runnen whale oil? A quart in 300 miles will smoke.

The net is like tying your shoes with chopsticks! Do be sure you have the proper fitting in the rear of the valve cover with the really small hole. It would idle high if that was not right.

"heeps idle is 2800 rpms. It sticks there"

Originally Posted by 884x4

Every 50-100 miles I have to add over a qt and a half of rotel 15w-40 because my engine starts ticking because of the low oil. I promise it doesn't leak that much oil....at least off the rear of the oil pan. The only oil visible outside the engine is on the bottom of the intake which is from my rear ccv. It had the right little tube thing by the way, that was new 4 months ago

Originally Posted by cruiser54

Ever do the mod described in post # 25 in my write-ups?

You sure the grommet that holds the rear tube in the valve cover isn't swelled shut?

Originally Posted by cruiser54

How did you test your TPS to determine it's okay? Did you use the flat 3 wire connector at 17% or the square 4 wire connector at 83%?

Originally Posted by DFlintstone

Well, just as a test, cap off the vacuum line to the rear of the valve cover, the one to the ccv orifice. At worst that could make your vacuum to high which is unlikely. (it's designed for that "leak"), but trust me it will be OK without it. DO make sure the other end is caped or routed so it can't put oil somewhere it can make a fire! . To bad the hose is not long enough to simply crimp it.

"The only oil visible outside the engine is on the bottom of the intake which is from my rear ccv."

A booger I know, but something I've done a number of times. The best way to see where oil is coming from is to blast her clean. (glasses, baseball cap grody cloths) , then watch right away for where it's from. One mile from the car wash and it's over, to late. You won't see where it actually came from, you gotta look right then. If it's clean and leaking, and you watch, you will see it.

Pardon me but it IS over 100 posts.....your front vent doesn't have one of those aftermarket filters, and IS free to vent to the air-box? I think those could clog up inside and you wouldn't see it. That would then make pressure that would try to blow oil out anywhere it could. Like the ccv.... (or rear main, front seal, dist....)

Originally Posted by 884x4

I can check



And yes tested both at those values

Originally Posted by cruiser54

TPS might still be bad.

Originally Posted by 884x4

I'll get a warranty replacement from Napa

Originally Posted by cruiser54

I would. Sensor ground test is good?

Originally Posted by cruiser54

#5.

Originally Posted by 884x4

And I assure you the oil is not leaking out of the engine anywhere. I have spent days fixing all oil leaks

Originally Posted by 884x4

Is there anywhere on the engine where it could leak oil and get all over the bottom of the intake manifold but not drip down to the oil drain plug?

Originally Posted by DFlintstone

I just picked out those stamens for us to ponder,,,,

More forward or rear? Any chance there is "sneaky" valve cover leak? With fire safety in mind, sometimes I might stuff A clean piece of paper towel or rag in near a suspected leak , just to see.