Boy you got me. I'd still check that booster line. That is a crazy lot of brake fluid..almost 1/2 an inch in the reservoir every 3 months? It's leaking somewhere....Anyway let us know how the mod works out!

I figure the 2.6 mm orifice between (I mean "IN") the rear ccv fitting and the intake manifold vacuum really only matters for a new engine. A new engine idling might actually have "positive crankcase ventilation, PCV)" with that. Before long the blow-by will overwhelm that. At least accelerating. Then the crankcase pressure is relieved via the large tube to the airbox. There is some vacuum there, but presumably not much, at least if the air filter is OK. Granted yours is custom, but I really don't think that front vent needs any vacuum from the air cleaner, it just needs a free, unrestricted 1/2 inch tube.

 

Answer for this is that the narrow back line going into the manifold has constant vacuum to pull air from the front to ventilate the crankcase. Removing that rear line basically allowed crankcase pressure to build and therefore leave through the path of least resistance (the front elbow because the rear has a restrictor in it).

 

We will see in the next several miles what happens!

 

I say run it and see what happens.

 

The system is designed to be able to change flow. Hence no pcv. The rear line actually gets pressure when the throttle snaps shut while running.

 

Don't make me open a FSM again.....................

 

Great news, I drove down town to take my girl to a haunted house(about 20miles) got back and the lines are CLEAN!

 

I must disagree with you. It is designed to pull from the hose connected to the filter, through the crankcase, then to the manifold. The narrow manifold line promotes this vacuum pull while keeping oil out with the two baffles under the valve cover. It doesn't change flow direction under normal operation, regardless of throttle. It only backflows when the vacuum is removed (clog, hose removal) and the crankcase pressure takes the path of lease resistance which also happens to be the larger of the hoses allowing oil to blow out and make a mess. A severe blow-by problem will cause this too.

 

Good deal!

 

Break it out brotha and preach it to the forum!!!

(at least until the next time it needs brought out again... and the next day, and the next day...)

 

alright guys good news and bad news
the new tps from napa fixed my high idle on startup issue
but...my rpms are still high and shifting into overdrive way late
i have to be going over 40 mph for about a quarter mile before it shifts and when it does its still running about 2000 rpms at 45mph...and thats with 31's on stock gears...(they should be stock at least)
what are yalls rpms at 45mph?

 

How did you adjust the new tPS?

 

engine side. reference was 4.88 so .17 of that is .82 and i got it to .82

 

Has the shifting been late with both TPSs?

Can you feel the trans shift 1,2,3,OD and then feel the torque converter lock?

Have you ever adjusted your TV cable?

 

Definitely adjust the kick down able and take for a drive. If still shifting odd adjust the tps on the tranny side abd try that. Now I've talked to a couple mechanics locally that are jeep wheelers that run larger tires and both have said because you are in essence making your final ratio taller with bigger tires that you can cheat by adjusting the tps to compensate for the bigger tires. I'm running one size up from stock and OD is at 45 mph. Not sure if what they have said works but it's and idea I guess if your shifting seems to be late with bigger rubber.