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'88 comahchee questions

Old Feb 13, 2012 | 06:58 AM
  #16  
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about a year before i bought my 99 xj... my nieces boyfriend was staying with my wife and i to help him get on his feet. i have a friend that owns a mom & pop car dealer.

he had an 87 mj longbed. well i had a $600. credit. so we got the truck for him and it even drove home under its own power for 15 miles. so long story short its been almost 3 years. he drives it every day and has done a ****e load of work to it just to make it dependable.

my point is if i had known they were so collectable among all of us; i would have gotten for my self.haha... but he loves it and is greatful he has has it. he was 20 when we got it for him... he was just about in tears when he saw what i was doing to make a deal for him to have it. he thought i was buying it for me until i just handed him the keys and said restore it...she's yours. he damn near made me bubble-up.lol.

sorry. just had a story about an MJ.lol.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 03:18 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

PS I have done 2 of these early HOs into Renix swaps. Easy.
Really? You put a 96 PCM in an 88 Renix Jeep?
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 03:23 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Really? You put a 96 PCM in an 88 Renix Jeep?
Heck no!!! I left it all Renix. You think I'm some kinda traitor?
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 03:39 PM
  #19  
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Lol. Absolutely not! If I read his thread right, that's what he's thinking though.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 03:48 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
You might post again during the day, or bump this thread. You could also go in "ask a question". You might want to get a few more opinions, maybe catch someone who tried it. I happen to like my Renix Btw! (surprise eh?). Good luck.

Hey "IF YOUR GONNA BE DUMB, YA GOTTA BE TOUGH!" The Renix motto?

Oh and, just in case, C/O Cruiser


Renix Jeep C101 Connector Refreshing
 
The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of almost 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it’s never been done before.

Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, and the ECU travel the path through the C101.
The C101 is located on the driver’s side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it’s center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar like substance which has hardened over time.
Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth.
If you have a small pick or dental tool tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter. Apply a true dielectric grease, not the stuff that came with your brake pads, to the connection and bolt it back together.
 
 
Revised 11-29-2011
i dont think the 88's and 89's had the c101. only 87's...
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 04:05 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jakbob
i dont think the 88's and 89's had the c101. only 87's...
Sorry, but you are mistaken.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 08:56 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Sorry, but you are mistaken.

Yep. 87 and 88 had C101. Eliminated in 89 and 90.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 09:08 PM
  #23  
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Someone mind posting a pic of the c101 connector. I can't find mine on my 87. Btw good find on the MJ definitely want to know how it turns out!
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 09:20 PM
  #24  
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Won't let me post photos. Look right above the brake booster on the firewall. 87 and 88 only. Read the write-up.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 09:25 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
No need to do the harness swap. The achilles heel of the Renix wiring system in 88 was the C1o1 and it takes 15 minutes to address vs doing a harness swap.

PS I have done 2 of these early HOs into Renix swaps. Easy.
well I sure like the sound of that better then a full swap!
so you said it takes about 15 mins to address vs. doing a full swap that will take way to much time... what all would I need to address???
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 09:29 PM
  #26  
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15 minutes to do the C101 connector:

Renix Jeep C101 Connector Refreshing
 
The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of almost 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it’s never been done before.

Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, and the ECU travel the path through the C101.
The C101 is located on the driver’s side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it’s center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar like substance which has hardened over time.
Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth.
If you have a small pick or dental tool tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter. Apply a true dielectric grease, not the stuff that came with your brake pads, to the connection and bolt it back together.
 
 
Revised 11-29-2011

As for the swap, it's easy ,too. Strip the donor block down to a long block. Remove a coolant galley plug on the driver's side of the block so you can install your CTS. Use your intake and exhaust manifolds along with a gasket for the original motor. Use the original flywheel/flexplate and distributor.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 09:29 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
You might post again during the day, or bump this thread. You could also go in "ask a question". You might want to get a few more opinions, maybe catch someone who tried it. I happen to like my Renix Btw! (surprise eh?). Good luck.

Hey "IF YOUR GONNA BE DUMB, YA GOTTA BE TOUGH!" The Renix motto?

Oh and, just in case, C/O Cruiser


Renix Jeep C101 Connector Refreshing
 
The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of almost 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it’s never been done before.

Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, and the ECU travel the path through the C101.
The C101 is located on the driver’s side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it’s center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar like substance which has hardened over time.
Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth.
If you have a small pick or dental tool tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter. Apply a true dielectric grease, not the stuff that came with your brake pads, to the connection and bolt it back together.
 
 
Revised 11-29-2011
well that sounds easy enough, so why have I seen that this system is so terrible and some people think a full updated harness swap is needed?
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 09:31 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by harley182
well that sounds easy enough, so why have I seen that this system is so terrible and some people think a full updated harness swap is needed?
Because they haven't done it.......
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 09:32 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
15 minutes to do the C101 connector:

Renix Jeep C101 Connector Refreshing
 
The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of almost 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it’s never been done before.

Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, and the ECU travel the path through the C101.
The C101 is located on the driver’s side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it’s center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar like substance which has hardened over time.
Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth.
If you have a small pick or dental tool tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter. Apply a true dielectric grease, not the stuff that came with your brake pads, to the connection and bolt it back together.
 
 
Revised 11-29-2011

As for the swap, it's easy ,too. Strip the donor block down to a long block. Remove a coolant galley plug on the driver's side of the block so you can install your CTS. Use your intake and exhaust manifolds along with a gasket for the original motor. Use the original flywheel/flexplate and distributor.
Oh gotcha. thats the 15 min fix you meant. that sounds simple. The swap Im not to worried about. Ive done chevy's before, and my 4.0 has been out twice.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 09:34 PM
  #30  
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You'll be fine. Go for it.
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