harley182

Hey everybody I have a little idea I want to run by everybody and get some in put. I found a 1988 comanchee online today for $1500 obo. I called the guy and he said the body is in great shape, rust free. The only issue is the 4.0 is blown. I have a 1995 xj with a great running drive train, but I would love to have a mj instead. I have had my engine out before to replace mounts, I have no issues doing a swap. I just need some info...

I know the 88 has the closed cooling system, I can just swap mine over from my 95 xj easy right??

Ive read something about the "c101 bulkhead connector harness" being a pain in the butt, whats that all about? Should I swap over my harness? Or can I basically just treat it like a straight forward motor swap, and un bolt, swap, and away I go off into the sunset in my comanchee?

Im still kinda new to these type of advanced questions, so any Info would be greatly appreciated

XJdryva

You better buy it before I do. If you have a full donor vehicle, I wouldn't worry about anything. MJs are worth gold so GET IT!!!

harley182

Well I guess I should say I plan on getting it. haha

Just wanted to know what I have ahead of me. So any help with the questions I had would be awesome

XJdryva

All Renix vehicles are a pain compared to the newer style we have but like I said, you have a donor vehicle so therefore you have all the parts to swap out you need. Start with that god forsaken closed cooling system and burn that crap

DFlintstone

Yea, good one. I'd like to know also. So He'd keep his Renix ECU. (and all the rest), And swap Renix sensors into the 95..what about the knock sensor?

XJdryva

SWAP EVERYTHING. Wiring harness, ecu, engine/tranny, radiator, and rear end and do a spring over on that XJ rear end at the same time for a few inches of lift

harley182

Alright, sounds like everything it is! haha Thanks.

XJdryva

A Renix and Antichrysler have a totally different ecu and harness set up. They are not compatible

harley182

alright thanks man. thats what I needed to know.

XJdryva

No prob. Take care of that thing if you get it. I seriously miss the 2 I had

DFlintstone

I'm not sure PCM will even bolt where the ECU fits. Then trying to feed it with signals/sensors on an 88? Idk. There might be more than a few things to deal with. Guess you'd need the 96 TCU, a dummy 02 sensor for the rear, the dash, the trany sensors...for a start. I think I'd leave it Renix. Wonder if you can drill & tap for the knock sensor. I've seen you can for the temp gauge sensor, if the 96 doesn't have the hole in the rear of the head. (like you will want if you try to swap out the ECU!)

harley182

Well If I do decide to go down this road I will first for sure post a build thread. But if I do end up with this project, everything will be swapped then. Cooling system, harness with sensors, ecu, engine, tranny, dash set up, all from my xj, to the mj. wouldnt swap my rear axle, it is the turdy5 after all. haha

DFlintstone

You might post again during the day, or bump this thread. You could also go in "ask a question". You might want to get a few more opinions, maybe catch someone who tried it. I happen to like my Renix Btw! (surprise eh?). Good luck.

Hey "IF YOUR GONNA BE DUMB, YA GOTTA BE TOUGH!" The Renix motto?

Oh and, just in case, C/O Cruiser


Renix Jeep C101 Connector Refreshing
　
The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of almost 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it’s never been done before.

Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, and the ECU travel the path through the C101.
The C101 is located on the driver’s side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it’s center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar like substance which has hardened over time.
Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth.
If you have a small pick or dental tool tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter. Apply a true dielectric grease, not the stuff that came with your brake pads, to the connection and bolt it back together.
　
　
Revised 11-29-2011

cruiser54

The 95 is threaded for it.

cruiser54

No need to do the harness swap. The achilles heel of the Renix wiring system in 88 was the C1o1 and it takes 15 minutes to address vs doing a harness swap.

PS I have done 2 of these early HOs into Renix swaps. Easy.