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4WD "Crunching" While Turning

Old 11-10-2011, 10:35 AM
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Default 4WD "Crunching" While Turning

Hey Guys -

I think I know the answer to this but want to check with the crowd. When I put my '90 XJ into 4WD and turn to the left or right it lurches badly with a "erch....erch....erch" grinding/crunching noise. Given that it only happens when I'm turning I'm assuming it's the U-joint.

I checked the joint and I get the TINIEST bit of movement in the driver's side, but none in the passenger side. Given that it sounds to me like it's coming from the driver's side anyway, that makes sense. I had someone ride with me a long time ago and I think they agreed.

Does my assumption sound correct? Thanks!
Old 11-10-2011, 10:43 AM
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Are you doing this on-road or off-road? On the road, in the dry, you will get a fair amount of menchanical noise when turning at low speeds - thats normal.
Old 11-10-2011, 10:46 AM
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I have this same problem and me and a few people ive talked to all think its the u-joints as well. I havent gotten arund t replacing them yet though.
Old 11-10-2011, 10:59 AM
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4x4 on pavement is a quick way to blow up your tcase. You will know when ujoints are really bad when they click while turning in 2wd (going slow like in a parking lot)
Old 11-10-2011, 11:22 AM
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Deekay - It happens in both on- and off-road. Not sure if it's worse either way. And it's more than just mechanical noise, it bucks quite a bit.

Jerm - yeah, I've been told that's a bad idea so I don't normally. Actually, the only reason I discovered this was because I thought I was fixing the actuator. The guy I bought it from said it was bad, but turned out the hose was just disconnected. When I went to test I drove around the pavement and that's when it started. However, it does it in off-roading too. As for clicking, I do notice a very slight clicking when coming to a stop, but I don't have to be turning for that to happen and I think THAT'S coming from the OTHER side... hm. Maybe I need to replace both joints? I'll probably start with the driver's side, see what happens, if it doesn't fix I'll try the passenger. If that doesn't fix it....?
Old 11-14-2011, 08:24 AM
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Hey all-

Replaced the u joint this weekend and it seems to have solved the problem. Thanks for your help.
Old 11-14-2011, 01:13 PM
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How long did it take?
Old 11-14-2011, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by OrangeJuice619
How long did it take?
Whew, actually it took the better part of the day, but really because I was fighting bolts for most of it. I'd say it took me about 4 hours not counting the trips to the store for stuff I didn't have. It's probably more like a 2 hour job if everything goes smoothly but of course it won't.

The actual process is not that difficult - I followed the Haynes manual, and it's really just 3 bolts after you get the wheel and rotor off. However, those bolts are exposed to the elements and were SUPER rusty. I must have loosed half a can of PB Blaster on them and it still took everything I had to get them off. One cheap socket even bit the dust - the head blew apart and all the little internals went flying...

I HIGHLY recommend a impact wrench if you're going to tackle this. I ALSO highly recommend using the ball joint press and NOT the hammer/socket method (as recommended in Haynes). It makes it much easier and you can rent the part for free at Advance Auto.

You can probably read instructions in a bunch of places. Just make sure you light the ball joint press up well and that you keep the end of the joint inside the cap when you're pressing it back in so you don't lose any of the needle bearings. Also grease up the ends of the axle when you're reinstalling so they slide back in easily.
Old 11-14-2011, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by eorose

Whew, actually it took the better part of the day, but really because I was fighting bolts for most of it. I'd say it took me about 4 hours not counting the trips to the store for stuff I didn't have. It's probably more like a 2 hour job if everything goes smoothly but of course it won't.

The actual process is not that difficult - I followed the Haynes manual, and it's really just 3 bolts after you get the wheel and rotor off. However, those bolts are exposed to the elements and were SUPER rusty. I must have loosed half a can of PB Blaster on them and it still took everything I had to get them off. One cheap socket even bit the dust - the head blew apart and all the little internals went flying...

I HIGHLY recommend a impact wrench if you're going to tackle this. I ALSO highly recommend using the ball joint press and NOT the hammer/socket method (as recommended in Haynes). It makes it much easier and you can rent the part for free at Advance Auto.

You can probably read instructions in a bunch of places. Just make sure you light the ball joint press up well and that you keep the end of the joint inside the cap when you're pressing it back in so you don't lose any of the needle bearings. Also grease up the ends of the axle when you're reinstalling so they slide back in easily.
Alright thanks. Ill probably take a dY our of one of these weekends soon to do it.
Old 11-15-2011, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by OrangeJuice619
Alright thanks. Ill probably take a dY our of one of these weekends soon to do it.
Cool man. Let me know if you have any questions.
Old 11-15-2011, 08:09 AM
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He doesnt want it because it has a lot of miles. Sorry
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