I am new to most major auto repair so bare with me. I have basic knowledge but am far from any type of expert lol. So i just picked up about 10 minutes ago, a 2001 cherokee sport for fairly cheap. Seemed fine when i test drove it for a few minutes. Today i picked it up, after 10 minutes, check engine light went on. Its also making a scraping type sound i didnt notice when i test drove it. Only does it when moving. Dont think its the brakes because they are new (supposedly) and i feel no vibration or anything odd when i brake. it sounds similar to running a fork around an 8" frying pan with no stick surface, if that makes sense lol. Also the turn signals dont work, but thats not as major an issue and probably the relay or loose or broken wiring. Any thoughts?

 

I had that exact sound on my old GMC,it was the rear drum scraping the shoes. Backed it up slamming the brakes each time clicked the “self adjustment” and noice went away. Good luck

 

Lou, first thing to do is check all lubricant levels and condition.

Grease the thing.

Don't trust anything the PO told you.

 

All fluids are full and clean. The PO is a mechanic, and is actually assisting me a bit with the issues. But i like to have other opinions, as one never knows what the PO isnt telling you....and this place is def good for info!

The car was sitting for a few months so just looking at the bottom of the jeep, it looks a little "dry" Id like to lube everything myself but i am a novice at auto repair beyond very basic stuff and time is of the essence right now as i start a job on the 25th and need this to make the short drive to and from. So i may have to bring it somewhere for a full lube job cuz i cant afford to be learning right now and it take 4 times longer lol But it suppose it could be the rear pads rubbing the drums like FreeLanceLac said. Only does it when moving, when running and idle it doesnt do it.

Was hoping this would last me a month or 2 before kicking me in the nuts lol

Other stuff with this thing....
i did notice it had the TUPY head, so thats good. No leaks either. oil pressure and running temp seems good.

Also noticed if i turn the key to just ignition power, the signals work and the power windows work. But when the car is on and running, they don't work. what could that be? Cant do much with that right now though because....

It also decided to not start this morning, seems like its the battery because its doing the "fast clicking" sound. Hopefully the alternator isn't bad. i guess we'll see.

 

Your biggest kick in the nuts now is the battery/connections.

 

yea for sure lol. Im gonna check the connections and jump it when my girl gets home with her car, and see if it holds a charge. if it doesnt i may get a new battery. the PO said its a few years old (and i know it was sitting a bit) so it may be worth it, so i know i have a new battery. BUT it could be the starter because all the lights still work and there is ignition power

 

Ok tested the battery, it is fine/full power. Car doesnt stall out when running (so alternator is good) so im guessing its the starter.

 

Is the starter covered in oil by chance?

 

its a little dirty, but not covered in oil.

BUT since i got a new battery, i put it in this morning. The dang thing started. lol The old battery was tested with a multimeter and showed as 12. something..i forgot lol.. so i didnt think it could be the battery but, with the new one, it seems to be ok. I DID clean the connectors so maybe that had something to do with it as well.

It also had this weird thing happening that the turn signals and power windows wouldn't work when the car was running, but they did if i just turned the key to power while it was not running. But it seem they are working now too. I do want to put it in drive to double check, and even take it for a drive, but it seems like the new battery and/or cleaning the connectors fixed multiple things.

 

with the Jeep running at idle... what are you getting for voltage at the battery terminals?
That would also tell you what the alternator is putting out (or not putting out).

 

thanks, yes, I will check that tomorrow its pouring rain today :/

Slightly off the subject, the battery cables are a bit corroded and the clamps suck, so looking to replace those as well. Someone mentioned in my other thread that the negative wire to the engine block could be corroded under the insulation and that could mimic a bad connection when they are moved and then things work again, so since they are a bit worn looking, and likely the originals, i figured replacing will be good. What battery cables are a good for the XJ? The ones specifically for the XJ on autozone are a bit pricey, there are alternatives on Amazon for half the price, but i mean, its amazon so its hit or miss. My thoughts are they may be ok since they arent a "complicated" part. That said, Should i stick with what's available at the auto parts shops or do we think the Amazon ones would do the job?

 

Check out JeepCables.com.

There are also threads here about making your own if you'd like to go that route.

 

Also noticed if i turn the key to just ignition power, the signals work and the power windows work. But when the car is on and running, they don't work. what could that be? Cant do much with that right now though because....


My 96 has a worn ignition. I have to turn the key back just a little sometimes after it starts to get the buzzer and turn signals to work. It thinks it is still in start mode and while not cranking the starter it does enter the "Dark chasm" between start and run. Might be worth wiggling "Highly technical term" the key a little after start and see if you have any luck.

 

Thanks Tom! It seem to be working since i swapped out the battery, but this is good to know!

In other news..i managed to slide myself under. It has some scaling/rust, but not as bad as you would think for living its entire life in NY. Frame is solid 2 things i noticed:
A very small hole in the muffler which for now i will just repair. But even more interesting, there is NO PIPE past the muffler! This would likely explain the loudness lol. From the muffler forward it seems fine, a little rusty but intact and the CAT looks fine. So the muffler is attached via 2 bolts on a flange. Id like to swap out the muffler and add the pipe going back. i have never done this before but assume its fairly simple. I do see when i look at mufflers that they dont seem to have this flange. Is this going to be an issue or can i hack off the flange on the front side and just use clamps. Remember i never did this before so go easy on me lol.
other thing is the heat shield above the muffler, one bolt broke through on it so its rattling. How necessary is this, can i just remove it ...or at least remove it temporarily until i replace the muffler?
Thanks in adanvce. everyone here as been a huge help! I'll get the knack of this soon enough!