There you go repeating yourself Pete. That's what you said in post #7!

Glad to hear you got it 1990. I need to see as a 3rd owner if they will do any free work on mine

 

More people have joined the conversation!!! Maybe they didn't read Post #7. Besides, being on 4 forums I lose track real easily.

 

Well hell, how about we add this for the people who arrived late to the show? I didn't have this done when this thread was started.

Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting
　
　
Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark.
Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad.
The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark.
Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected.
You should get a reading of .5 AC volts.
If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer.
Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off.
A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out it’s mounting holes with the first drill bit that just won’t fit through the original holes. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.
　
Revised 11-29-2011

 

Well writen. BTW my above post was intended as a pat on the back, only that.

Also, just bought two more new meters. I'm going to double check that .3 reading I got. (still runnen fine), and see if I can do it in two minutes this time!
(soldered on the alligator clips already).

 

they might im the third or fourth owner on my 90 and just called the dealer and brought it down but then again it only has 90,000 miles

 

I'm pretty thick skinned, you know!! Double check your readings. Don't lose your new meters in your cluttered garage either.

 

I'm 263K, and have already changed the calipers, rotors, cps, long story on injectors, but they got fixed to where I need a set. What did they change on yours?

"I'm pretty thick skinned", I be sure to check from time to time! (well done on #7)
Already lost one, but the other and three more are right here on my...well wait a...

 

Are you asking me about the injectors? If you are, I'll tell you this: Throttle response was improved along with idle quality. Fuel mileage increase? I didn't notice anything.

As far as crank time, the injectors changed nothing. Shorter crank times are influenced by 3 things:
CPS signal strength, ground refreshing and upgrading, and battery cable upgrading. It's still gonna be longer than some like though.

 

i guess on a 90 it has the stupid bendix system and my system was so bad they only used it for one year not a 100% on that but thats what ive heard. Anyway the main part they are replacing is the ABS pump under the reservoir its a $500 part that im getting free just sucks because its on back order.... wish they would hurry up i miss my jeep

 

I like the renualt bendix system. Don't think its crappy at all.

 

OK, save me some google time. "bendix system?", your not talking about the starter?

Cruiser, I was talking about recall items...I saw injectors where not on another list, but should be!

 

It's late and I don't have time to read 116 posts but just incase someone new sees this thread title because they are having a similar problem in general this sounds like the symptoms of a fuel injector "leaking down". That is, it never completely closes.

 

it has to do with the bendix brake system. my jeep doesnt have a regular booster it has a vacuum pod looking thing the size of a baseball on top of the brake master cylinder and that acts like the booster and my jeep isnt keeping the right pressure because my ABS pump keeps kick on and off every ten seconds. when i was looking it up online it says it was only models with ABS and it turns out there was a bunch of recalls on this system but the gist of it is the dealer is basically going over my entire brake setup and replacing things for FREE

 

REALLY. I'm actually late 89 and 90 on the title. (I prefer calling it a 90, sounds more modern) So...no ABS...My booster has no *****! Sounds like I should just take it into a dealer and see what they will do, maybe get some free stuff! I can always come back here to get help fixing it after they get done! (don't have the greatest stuff to report on my experience with shops), And thanks!

 

yeah i dont like shops or dealers much ..... a bunch a liars and thieves