Hi. You wrote "it cranks a few times then starts but the cps is still reading .3 " You did get that you test the AC from the CPS with the plug un-done? Just the output from the CPS while it's cranking is what you want.

 

hi, where is this CPS. besides next to the crank, haha

 

could it be the check valve in the fuel pump?

 

yeah just from the cps while unpluged the resistance was .3 so i decide to try it even though it was reading lower than the .5 plugged it back in and it fired up

 

its on top of the bell housing on the driver side you can see it with a flashlight from the top

dont think its the fuel check valve because key cycling doesnt work i have the proper fuel pressure and its definitely not my fuel pump i can hear that thing a whining lol

 

OK, but you had the meter set on 200 on ACV right? That's up to 200 AC volts. Resistance is in Ohms and is on the bottom left quadrant, with the headphone symbol. (that you can set on like 200, then it will read near 0 when you touch the probes together). Is for seeing how well something is connected. Anyway this is Cruiser's baby. I guess he said .3 is right on the edge and you can help us see how to improve it. Were waiting! Fix it till it's broke!

 

ill try testing it that way in the morning before i go about modifying the bracket on the cps. But im really curious to see if it works because apparently the wallowing out of the holes is even suggested in "all data" so i will definitely post how it goes if i decide to go through with it. but as of now its starting fine so will see what happens in the morning fingers crossed

 

Yes, great. yea, 200 on the AC scale with the plug undone, cranking I think is what we're after. I might check mine just for fun. I installed it for my buddy, the PO 12 years ago before I bought the Jeep for my Mom, then inherited it. I'm guessing, and it's just a guess, that the condition of the connections might be more important with a weak signal. The whole shebang might have been designed with perfect connections in mind.

 

im really hoping i dont have to take it out again even though ive taken out and installed it several time now its still a pain every time and i hate dealing with the swivel and i can never seem to get to the top bolt without cramming my hand up there with a wrench which isnt easy i dont exactly have the smallest hands

 

 

Put a jack under your cross member... Pull the bolts to the crossmember and lower it down... Dont take off driveshafts or anything else... Only what i said... Itll lower it down plenty to easily get to the sensor... Some extensions and u can even use a 3/8 ratchet... Im going through the same issue as u... I just left my tranny dropped down till i figure it out...

 

so its still doing the same thing..... after going through a few things i tore into the wire loom for my battery cables and found that my ground was shredded. so i replaced it and kept it out of the loom got some brand new terminals new battery because mine had a dead cell then discovered a green wire that was shredded down by my distributor. fixed it and my lights are brighter now lol but thats it

 

That has to be good, cleaning up the wiring. Boy, tough for you, but I sure would like to see you get the CPS AC Voltage up. Voltage, not resistance, right from the CPS wire with it unplugged, not running of course.

 

So it's starting but cranking a long time?

 

sometimes it starts right up sometimes it just cranks and cranks and it wont start ill leave it alone for a bit and it will fire. its literally like it has a mind of it own some days it gives me no problems some days it wont fire at all like today.......itll be fine then when it wont start it has no spark it just loses it all of the sudden which sound like the CPS but its already been replaced three times twice with auto zone and then once from mopar