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1987 cherokee XJ - no “always hot” circuits have power. Only the ign powered circuits

Old Dec 21, 2019 | 05:25 PM
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Default 1987 cherokee XJ - no “always hot” circuits have power. Only the ign powered circuits

I have 12VDC on all fuses that are hot when ignition key is on. Non that are to have battery power at all times have any power. This 87 doesn’t not have a fuse panel under hood. Only under dash on drivers side. Any ideas??
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 06:55 PM
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I think your jeep has that huge connector on the firewall just above the brake master cylinder, right? That is a known failure point for corrosion and should be checked. In the early days, it was to connect the engine harness to the body harness as separate units. If it's corroded, strip, splice, and solder all the wires to make them permanent connections.
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 09:17 PM
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I would suspect you have a burned fusible link at the starter relay.




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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 09:42 PM
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Thanks. I checked the 4 red cables that go back to the dash and all have 12VDC. Which are exactly the fuse links in the picture? In the rubber pieces that look like splices?
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by JPUMOU
Thanks. I checked the 4 red cables that go back to the dash and all have 12VDC. Which are exactly the fuse links in the picture? In the rubber pieces that look like splices?
All the red and green wires IIRC.
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 09:57 PM
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Ok thanks will check again
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Old Dec 23, 2019 | 11:11 AM
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I ohm’ed out what I think are the fusible
links in the picture. Those black things that look like splices on the wires. All shows closed circuit.
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Old Dec 23, 2019 | 05:05 PM
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do you have an always hot on the relay?
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Old Dec 24, 2019 | 11:31 AM
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Yes.

here is how this all started. I added some new gauges to the existing instrument oanel. When I reinstalled the panel, everything worked but while I was pushing it in to screw it back to dash, some of the lights in panel went out.

i checked all fuses. All good

new gauges use power from ignition power circuit and they work.



i took jumper from ignition power circuit to each of the hot y’all the time circuits in fuse panel. Every thing works as long as I apply power to each circuit from ignition power. I should have remove battery cables before installing instrument panel back in.
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 04:48 PM
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Default I gave up for awhile but back at it

I still have no power on any on the circuits that are supposed to be hot all the time unless I jump it from one of the Circuits that are only hot when the switch is on. I can’t find any bad fuses, fuses links , etc
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Old Feb 29, 2020 | 01:31 PM
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I'm in a similar, yet different spot.

My heep is a base model, I bought a cluster from one with all the gauges. Installed it, tach worked, volt gauge didn't.. Well...****. Fiddled with it a bit, now nothing works.

Neither of the instrument fuses are blown, but they also don't have power. Do different fuse links power different parts of the fuse panel?,
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 05:07 PM
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I am not sure about what fuse links cables feed the panel for sure
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 05:21 PM
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What exactly doesn't work?
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 05:24 PM
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All the ignition circuits work. None of the always hot circuits. If I jump from the ign circuit in the fuse box to any circuit that feeds the always hot circuits they will work. I have checked out all fuses, check every fuse link I could find and ohm’Ed our most wiring from battery are back to firewall.

this model only has the fuse box under the dash drivers side. It doesn’t have one under the hood
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JPUMOU
All the ignition circuits work. None of the always hot circuits. If I jump from the ign circuit in the fuse box to any circuit that feeds the always hot circuits they will work. I have checked out all fuses, check every fuse link I could find and ohm’Ed our most wiring from battery are back to firewall.

That helps.

That always hot comes from fusible link J on that starter relay. I believe that's the battery stud on the relay. It's one of the green links.
From there, it goes through the c100 connector which is basically the back of the fuseblock but in the engine bay. Cavity D1.
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