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1985 cherokee at a loss

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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 07:50 PM
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Default 1985 cherokee at a loss

Hi im fairly new to this forum I have a 1985 cherokee 2.5 carbed. Did the webber carb swap full tune up plugs wires coil ect was running fine then one day just wouldnt start and hasn't for about a month I thought it was pickup coil bought and installed new distributor when istalled it backfired a few times now re adjusted distributor now no backfire or fire at all and now starter engages without key in start position just turns over when key taken completly out!! Im at a loss here any help would be very much appreciated cant afford to just throw any more parts at it hoping its the right one please help
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 11:58 PM
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Sounds like your ignition switch has issues for starters. You're saying it just cranks at random with no key inserted?
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 11:57 AM
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Ignition switch. When you take it out, its much easier to take dash panel off. Seems like more work, but taking those 9 or 10 screws out to get dash panel off, is Well worth it. They are cheap. Is it a Tilt of fixed column? both ignition switches are cheap.
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 05:40 PM
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ok bur what about the no fire issue? same problem?
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 1985zonexj
ok bur what about the no fire issue? same problem?
Possibly. (likely).
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 11:24 PM
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Year: 1985
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Engine: 2.5L
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I just had a problem with no spark on my 85 with 2.5l. I also replace everything from pickup coil to coil to ignition box. Turned out it was the computer. If you look at the wires from the pickup coil they route into the firewall then back out to the ignition box. Apparently a very basic computer does a little control on timing but not much. I did what is called the "Nutter bypass" http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm Really simple to just jumper the orange and purple wires from the pickup over to the corresponding wires on the ignition box. Be sure to cut the wire from the computer to the ignition box if you are just splicing in as I did or it still wont spark. You can use the crimp splices if you want to remove the bypass later, or just wire them in permanently. Mine runs great now, and didn't have to pay $160+ for a new computer.

Also if you haven't yet, before you bypass, pull your ignition box off the inner fender by the battery and look at the back of it. If the tar looking filling is not smooth but looks like melted candle wax in a spot, then it is shot and needs replacing. This is what mine looked like.

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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 12:43 AM
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Year: 1994
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Yep. let the smoke out and they become no good junk. I had an issue with my computer actually burning inside. Lots of white smoke. Turns out a bad ground caused the computer to try to monitor the voltage from the alternator,. The voltage regulator is IN the computer. So with a bad ground, it was alternating, high voltage/low voltage and fininally commited suicide. Why did Chrysler put the voltage regulator in the computer rather than built into the alternator Or an outside regulator like other cars do? Makes good grounds ever so important.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 01:33 AM
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I'm not doubting you. Maybe Cruiser can "shine some light". I had thought the Regulator was in the alt till 90 or so.

Cranking when it shouldn't? Always smart to listen to Radi!
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 07:20 AM
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91 was first year for regulator in the PCM. Fuggetabout that right now.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 01:52 PM
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Year: 1994
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My mistake. You may be right on the pre 1990 alternator switch. Now why did they switch design?!!
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 04:12 PM
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Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by jmrec100
My mistake. You may be right on the pre 1990 alternator switch. Now why did they switch design?!!
Chrysler influence.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 04:31 PM
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ok thanks all of your for your help this things been driving me crazy i have a new module on the way and am gonna ef do the bypass so i just leave the blacck ground alone and tie orange to oranfe and violet to violet?
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 06:07 PM
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I only ask because my pickup coil has three wirez an orange violet and a black that go through the firewall
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 06:23 PM
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From: Dawson Springs, KY
Year: 1985
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Engine: 2.5L
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I left the black hooked up as is. I will try to get a photo later of what I did. It looks kinda scrapped together, but I plan on rewiring later. I tried to find another connector but AZ told me it was a dealer only part, if you can find one you can wire into it and it will look more organized. I just used those connectors that one wire passes through and the other slides in beside it and you clamp it down to splice into it, they seem to be working just fine.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 06:32 PM
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Originally Posted by jedijeb
I just had a problem with no spark on my 85 with 2.5l. I also replace everything from pickup coil to coil to ignition box. Turned out it was the computer. If you look at the wires from the pickup coil they route into the firewall then back out to the ignition box. Apparently a very basic computer does a little control on timing but not much. I did what is called the "Nutter bypass" http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm Really simple to just jumper the orange and purple wires from the pickup over to the corresponding wires on the ignition box. Be sure to cut the wire from the computer to the ignition box if you are just splicing in as I did or it still wont spark. You can use the crimp splices if you want to remove the bypass later, or just wire them in permanently. Mine runs great now, and didn't have to pay $160+ for a new computer.

Also if you haven't yet, before you bypass, pull your ignition box off the inner fender by the battery and look at the back of it. If the tar looking filling is not smooth but looks like melted candle wax in a spot, then it is shot and needs replacing. This is what mine looked like.

Just so yall know this is a ford brain pictured the color of the plug needs to be same for replacement. Always carried a spare when I rock my 79 bronco...jm2cw
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