RubenZ

I did a search on the forums but most of what I found was specific to the window controls and testing driver side solder points.

So my XJ has a problem in which the Power Door Locks won't UNLOCK from the Drives side but will LOCK. From the Passenger side Function for Unlock and Lock works perfectly fine.

Basically what I'd like to know before tearing off panels is where should I focus my efforts ? It kind of sucks because for some reason it prevents the new VIPER ALARM from also Unlocking. I'm guessing because the VIPER ALARM unlock wire attaches to where the wire that goes into drivers side door switch goes. And since the switch on Passenger side works fine, could I just wire in my Viper Alarm Unlock wire to a wire on that switch panel?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

XJDAD

You may not want to hear this but I bet you have a broken pink/violet UNLOCK wire in the wire loom that goes from one of the doors into the body. Taking the door cards off is pretty easy, especially for me since I had both front door cards on and off five times last week. In my case, it was the red POWER wire that was broken in the loom between the body and the passenger side door.
The passenger door lock & window switch is the controller for the power locks and the driver's side sends the LOCK and UNLOCK requests through the harness to the relays in the passenger door switch. My advice is to take both door cards off and take the switches out of them and reconnect them to the two connectors in each door. Buzz out the UNLOCK REQUEST wire (Pink/Violet) from the driver's side switch to the corresponding wire in the passenger side door switch. When you find where it's broken, solder it up and while you're there, solder in your Viper blue wire and you're good to go. My issue was the red POWER lead that was broken in the passenger door look so I soldered & heat shrunk it in place.
I picked up the P/V wire and the O/V wire at the small connector in the driver's footwell for my replacement keyless entry to operate the door locks.
PM me if you need any additional schematic information.

RubenZ

XJDAD. When I installed my speakers I took doors off etc. So I know its pretty easy. Thanks for your help I'm going to try that. I also noticed on my Passenger side the previous owner had cut these wires but I'm not even sure why. I posted it sometime back not he forums and was told it was for keyless entry. I wonder why they would do that and what would happen if I reconnect them.

Untitled by Ruben Zamora, on Flickr

XJDAD

Ruben, according to the schematics I have and that I used for my recent door lock saga, the wires coming into the passenger side door from the overhead unit which is where the keyless receiver unit is situated are light blue/red (like the left wire in your pic) and dark blue.
I can't tell from your pic which door I'm looking at. Does your factory keyless work?

RubenZ

Its the passenger door. I can't test factory keyless because when I bought jeep they just provided the keys, not keyless entry FOB. So to remedy this I bought a Viper Alarm and got it all setup except for getting the doors to unlock. I'm guess because they don't unlock from the driver side unlock panel.

VTJeep

Master window switch bypass. A new switch would probably do the trick. With the alarm this might cause an issue but if you want an easy fix this is it.. Though I'd recommend soldering a jump wire instead of paper clip.. The harness is behind kick panel on driver side.

RubenZ

Thanks for the TIP. I will try that out during lunch break. What if even after doing that it doesn't work? Would that mean i have a broken wire? possibly in the door rubber grommet?

VTJeep

Jeep is notorious for having wiring issues. I mean, at 15+ years old its not totally a surprise but still frustrating. Yes, the potential of a broken or frayed wire is very likely. The boot into the driver door is a good place to inspect. In my case it ended in pulling the door panel to access everything properly. Not a big deal as jeeps are kinda like Lego's. a solder gun and some spare 18g (maybe 20g?) wire will do the trick.

New master switches for reference.. Again this would probably solve isuue, assuming no wiring problems.

Anony

If it's only the electronic controls it shouldn't be that difficult of a problem.

I found on my drivers side after replacing the control box, problems with the actual locking mechanism and connecting rods. The locking mechanism works under some very slight pressures. The locking mechanism not being just right, causes locking/unlocking problems.

I ended up disconnecting the manual lock rod in order to get the electric lock to work.

If the locking mechanism fails it's sometimes a pitb to get them repaired and/or adjusted to work correctly Sometimes a lock replacement is required.

While you have the door apart I would inspect and clean in and around the door lock, while lubricating the locking mechanism and any connected parts. (if the control rods become out of adjustment, they then need to be re-aligned and re-adjusted) It should only take a few mins to inspect, clean and lubricate.

RubenZ

I know this is old thread but I finally got around to working on this CRAP. I replaced Passenger Door Module, that fixed nothing, I replaced Driver side that did nothing. Those two WIRED i put a pic of further up, when I connect the Violet/Blue one it UNLOCKS the doors and KEEPS trying to UNLOCK the doors. Then the REAR hatch DOOR LOCK motor keeps trying to LOCK. I check the WIRED between the DOOR and Body and Don't see any broken ones unless they are more inside the door which I wouldn't suspect but who knows. I may end up removing the entire damn harmless, fixing all the wires and connect it back again. I just don't know really what else to try.

Waynerd

The wires that pass through a boot from body to liftgate for the liftgate lock will also make some things screwy. Maybe there's a short there and that's why they cut the wires. There's also the area between the kick panel and door boot where the wires may have rubbed through. Possibly the wireless module malfunction but I'm not sure if that's possible.

RubenZ

Ya thats what I'm thinking. They cut those wires for a reason. And I have a feeling it was that. The rear hatch may be causing something to screw up. I'm gonna investigate all the wires further. I could probably do the rewire easily and cheaply, just going to be so time consuming.

RubenZ

Bit of an update. As a Work around I ran the UNLOCK wire from my newly installed Viper alarm system to the Passenger Pink/LB wire that goes INTO the Passenger door. The one that was CUT and it work with KEYFOB lol. I'm probably have something cut or shorted somewhere. I'm actually starting to think it could be the Remote Keyless Module in the Dome Light.Theres certain things in the vehicle that don't work when they should, like horn chirp when locking doors, etc.and I think that module controls that too.

Anony

The Remote Keyless Module from the diagram below is connected to the CCD bus.

Something effecting, (bad wire, bad gnd, interference, poor data lines, etc.), the CCD bus potentially effects connected modules.

When troubleshooting the door locks, I would disconnect the Remote Keyless Module at the Dome Light, to rule out problems with the keyless. Once the door locks are working from their door control buttons then re-connect the Remote Keyless Module to determine if there are any problems with the keyless system.

The Dome Light has a PCB with IIRC has one large plug connector. I would unplug the PCB and leave the smaller plug to the dome lamp connected, in order to test the dome lamp functions without keyless remote. I believe the large keyless remote PCB plug needs to be connected for keyless remote dome lamp functions. I haven't looked at the keyless remote PCB lately, as it was removed several years ago. The dome lamp should have basic door and headlamp switch functions without the keyless remote PCB (plug disconnected), but I haven't verified this since removing the dome lamp assembly.

On my 98 XJ removing the drivers dome light assembly didn't have any effect on the rear dome.

Using the Viper Alarm for lock and unlock I would disconnect the OE keyless remote PCB plug and connect the viper alarm (lock and unlock) to the two lock and unlock wires noted below *.

Possibly you can trace these two wires to a connector from behind or near the dash. I'm uncertain what effect disconnecting the keyless remote PCB has on the dome lamp.

Dome Lamp/Switch

C Z1 20BK GROUND
B M2 20YL DOOR LATCH SWITCH SENSE
A M1 20PK FUSED B(+)

Overhead Module with keyless remote: * Unlock and Lock wires

CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 M2 20YL FRONT DOOR AJAR SWITCH SENSE
2 M1 20PK COURTESY LAMPS FEED
3 Z1 20BK GROUND
4
5 P55 20DB DOOR UNLOCK CONTROL (* UNLOCK WIRE, Dark Blue)
6 D1 20VT/BR CCD BUS(+)
7 - -
8
9 Z1 20BK GROUND
10 X3 20BK/RD HORN RELAY CONTROL
11 P59 20LB/RD DOOR LOCK CONTROL (* LOCK - Light Blue / Red wire)
12 D2 20WT/BK CCD BUS(-)