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Stock Grand Cherokee Tech. All ZJ/WJ/WK Non-modified/stock questions go here!ZJ (93-98), WJ (99-04), WK (05+)
All ZJ/WJ/WK specific tech questions asked here!
Heres where I am at. I've got a cracked head. Have the connections to get it fixed no problem. But I cannot find
The casing number for the head? Anyone know where it is located on my model?
Heres where I am at. I've got a cracked head. Have the connections to get it fixed no problem. But I cannot find
The casing number for the head? Anyone know where it is located on my model?
It will be in the middle of the head under the injector wire loom right alongside the valve cover. 97 should be a 0630 head? Dave? you got a copy? Am I right here? lol
Wasn't that the 7120? Earlier heads didn't have the dowel pin holes. IIRC, there was something about the 2 center exhaust ports also.
Could be... It is a 7 something 20. lol I think you are right Dave and I stand corrected there, lol It did have dowel pins and I checked all the coolant ports to make sure they were the same and the the height from the deck. Valve heads were all the same size but had the different sized stems we talked about a few weeks ago. I had to leave the rear sending unit in to block the hole in the back.
Yeah, about that sending unit. My "Clearwater" head had a pipe plug in that hole that was painted over and not tight! It started leaking 3 days after we installed it and I went ballistic thinking it was cracked! We had to remove it, dope it up, and reinstall it. My mechanic sent Odessa a blistering e-mail complaining about it, but got no response.
We also forgot to seal that left front head bolt and it started seeping shortly after. The only way to tell is from the dropping coolant level and the crud that forms around the first exhaust manifold stud nut. We pulled that bolt and sealed it, but now after 30K miles, it's starting to leak again, probably because it wasn't dry when we sealed it.
For those who don't know, that head bolt is the only one that is threaded into the water jacket and is torqued less than the others. If you don't seal it, coolant creeps thru the threads into the exhaust manifold stud threads and into the manifold itself, burning off as steam and leaving a deposit around the stud nut. It uses about a quart of coolant per month. After we sealed it the first time, my jeep didn't lose a drop of coolant in over 6 months! That's incredible for a jeep!
Last edited by dave1123; Nov 20, 2017 at 06:31 AM.
Yeah, about that sending unit. My "Clearwater" head had a pipe plug in that hole that was painted over and not tight! It started leaking 3 days after we installed it and I went ballistic thinking it was cracked! We had to remove it, dope it up, and reinstall it. My mechanic sent Odessa a blistering e-mail complaining about it, but got no response.
We also forgot to seal that left front head bolt and it started seeping shortly after. The only way to tell is from the dropping coolant level and the crud that forms around the first exhaust manifold stud nut. We pulled that bolt and sealed it, but now after 30K miles, it's starting to leak again, probably because it wasn't dry when we sealed it.
For those who don't know, that head bolt is the only one that is threaded into the water jacket and is torqued less than the others. If you don't seal it, coolant creeps thru the threads into the exhaust manifold stud threads and into the manifold itself, burning off as steam and leaving a deposit around the stud nut. It uses about a quart of coolant per month. After we sealed it the first time, my jeep didn't lose a drop of coolant in over 6 months! That's incredible for a jeep!
That bolt was rusty when I tore mine down so I figure that was the case. The weird thing was when I chased all the threads before reassembly the tap gave no indication of this and actually bottomed out just like all the others. I had read about that bolt here before so I sealed it. But the fact that the tap bottomed out like in a normal closed hole had me wondering about it actually going into the water jacket.
Well, being a toolmaker, I found out the hole was drilled deep enough to break into the jacket, but the threads don't go that deep. In production, these operations are done on automated machinery, holes drilled first, gang-drilled all at once, then tapped all at once. If they were set to bottom out, the taps would shatter. I've watched jigs running oil pan bolts, 20 all at once. Pretty amazing.
Is there a way to get the "pin" out of the security module other than contacting a dealership? If I had my "pin" I could add keys now to almost any jeep 99-08 (as well as many other makes and models). Im just sick of this contact the dealership with your vin crap...
Well, being a toolmaker, I found out the hole was drilled deep enough to break into the jacket, but the threads don't go that deep. In production, these operations are done on automated machinery, holes drilled first, gang-drilled all at once, then tapped all at once. If they were set to bottom out, the taps would shatter. I've watched jigs running oil pan bolts, 20 all at once. Pretty amazing.
I though that might be the case, or a thin casting boss right near the bottom side of the hole. I meant to take a better detailed look in there but got hot on getting it back together to drive it again and forgot. lol
Is there a way to get the "pin" out of the security module other than contacting a dealership? If I had my "pin" I could add keys now to almost any jeep 99-08 (as well as many other makes and models). Im just sick of this contact the dealership with your vin crap...
By "pin" do you mean the SKIMs "secret code" built into the factory keys and the SKIM module? That's why the dealer has to use a DRB III scan tool to find it. Then they can program it back into new keys. At least that's the way I understand it from reading the FSM.
Hey, first post, have a question on factory tcase options on a 94 GC Limited V8 auto. Were they all full time 4wd (249?), or was part time an option (242)? I know it can be swapped over, but I want to know if they also came stock? TIA
