If you weld chlorinated brake clean you create phosgene gas, nasty nasty stuff. Same gas that was used for chemical warfare that killed a ton of people in WWI.

Acetone is by far the best, rubbing alcohol wont touch a lot of grime that acetone will. For mig welding, the majority of the time ill flap/wire wheel down to bare metal and call it a day. Unless youre working in an area where oil residue is a concern, then the acetone comes in handy. Otherwise just weld away.

 

It is Chlorinated Brake Cleaner that is the issue. Not brake fluid. I'm sure it was a typo, just want to clarify for the sake of any newbs out there. Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner is fine as far as I know. I usually use acetone.

 

Yes, it was. Thanks for the assist!

 

Anyone know anything about the jegs brand welders?

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...welder&Tab=SKU

 

At that price, they have to be re-branded Chinese units. I would avoid.

 

I would recommend you check out your local craigslist and or classifieds. Deals can be had on good condition used welders for a fraction of the initial cost and could come with a bottle. I purchased a used Hobart 180 with 50 foot extension cable and a bottle for $300.

 

Okay, welders, how about a spot of advice? (yuk yuk)

Spot welding our Jeeps, specifically, the frame to body connection (yes, I know it's not really a frame...) under the rear cargo area. What size wire? How long to hold? I"d like to get a ballpark idea before I start experimenting.

Also, how do I weld up 3/8" holes where spot welds were drilled out? A copper backing plate and then just weld it closed?

 

.023 is best for auto body, but it can also be done with .030, just have to manage the heat and prevent burn through. Hopefully you're not using flux core either.

Go to tractor supply, home depot, metal supply store, yadda yadda and get some thin sheet metal to practice on, shouldn't be too expensive to get a few small pieces.

As far as filling holes, 3/8 is relatively large when trying to fill sheet metal. A backer or welding spoon will surely help. Stacking tacks and building material until you've closed up the hole, may have to let cool and clean as you go.

Getting the sheet metal very very clean will also help. Get yourself some seam sealer after you've finished and dressed all the spot welds.

 

Couldn't have said it better!

 

is .30" good to weld unibody stiffeners, door hinge stiffeners with a 135 amp welder or should I break out the 180 amp one?

 

Thanks, Lack! I'm thinking of using some thin sheet metal to back the holes. Won't hurt anything on the project.

 

030 whether it's solid or flux core is only good on the top end of the 110v machine, but would run well on the 220v better.

i generally use 023 on my 110v lincoln 140c cause i can use it in most applications throughout the range of the machine.

i use 030 mostly on my big 220v thermal arc fabricator only because i don't weld too thick of metal mostly.

 

Yeah I kinda figured. Didn't know if I'd be pleasantly surprised with some news to the contrary.

Yeah I've been scouting them out. My biggest problem is not being quick enough on the draw when I come across a deal.

 

Isn't that what she said?

 

Playing with aluminum today