Jeep Cherokee Forum
The new booster is thicker, pushing the washer fluid reservoir forward. Have to drill new mounting holes.
The new booster is thicker, pushing the washer fluid reservoir forward. Have to drill new mounting holes.
0 2016/07/19 22:51:20
So I buggered up the hard line nut on the driver's side trying to replace the soft lines.
So I buggered up the hard line nut on the driver's side trying to replace the soft lines.
0 2016/07/20 19:42:39
Cut off the old flare as close to the flare as possible.
Cut off the old flare as close to the flare as possible.
0 2016/07/20 19:43:10
The final bend in the line is too close to the end of the line to use my tubing bender to straighten, so I drilled a 3/16" hole in some scrap wood and forced the line through that to straighten it out.
The final bend in the line is too close to the end of the line to use my tubing bender to straighten, so I drilled a 3/16" hole in some scrap wood and forced the line through that to straighten it out.
0 2016/07/20 19:43:32
You need to straighten it so the new nut will slide far enough up to get the flaring tool on it.
You need to straighten it so the new nut will slide far enough up to get the flaring tool on it.
0 2016/07/20 19:44:38
New nut.
New nut.
0 2016/07/20 19:45:54
Try to get the bend back near the same place so the nut will mount to the soft line properly.
Try to get the bend back near the same place so the nut will mount to the soft line properly.
0 2016/07/20 19:46:06
Fittings on the left are the double 45deg flare from my old master cylinder and the fitting on the right is the bubble/metric fitting for the new master cylinder.
Fittings on the left are the double 45deg flare from my old master cylinder and the fitting on the right is the bubble/metric fitting for the new master cylinder.
0 2016/07/20 19:47:04
Brake that rear fitting loose now that the booster is out of the way.
Brake that rear fitting loose now that the booster is out of the way.
0 2016/07/20 19:48:41
These are the fittings for the original proportioning in my XJ. Be sure to get the "inverted thread" fittings as they are the correct fittings for the double 45deg flare.
These are the fittings for the original proportioning in my XJ. Be sure to get the "inverted thread" fittings as they are the correct fittings for the double 45deg flare.
0 2016/07/20 19:49:17
The MC takes an M10-1.5 (the top fittings) and an M12-1.0 (the purple fitting). The top line is 30" long with bubble flares on both ends. I cut it in half and used it for my new MC to prop valve lines.
The MC takes an M10-1.5 (the top fittings) and an M12-1.0 (the purple fitting). The top line is 30" long with bubble flares on both ends. I cut it in half and used it for my new MC to prop valve lines.
0 2016/07/20 19:51:31
Bench bleed the master cylinder.
Bench bleed the master cylinder.
0 2016/07/20 19:52:52
Double 45deg flare on the left, bubble flare for the new MC on the right.
Double 45deg flare on the left, bubble flare for the new MC on the right.
0 2016/07/20 19:54:35
With the old booster out of the way, you can break the rear fitting loose and remove the line. Hold the prop valve with a 20mm wrench.
With the old booster out of the way, you can break the rear fitting loose and remove the line. Hold the prop valve with a 20mm wrench.
0 2016/07/20 19:55:04
Fittings for the prop valve. the Inverted Thread fittings are for the double 45deg flares.
Fittings for the prop valve. the Inverted Thread fittings are for the double 45deg flares.
0 2016/07/20 19:56:16
The new MC takes metric fittings: M12-1.0 (purple fittings) and M10-1.5 (green fittings). The top tube is 30" long with bubble flares on both ends. Cut it in half and use it to make the new lines.
The new MC takes metric fittings: M12-1.0 (purple fittings) and M10-1.5 (green fittings). The top tube is 30" long with bubble flares on both ends. Cut it in half and use it to make the new lines.
0 2016/07/20 19:57:18
Bench bleed your MC.
Bench bleed your MC.
0 2016/07/20 19:58:35
INstall your newly bent lines. I added a bit of power steering hose around the rear hard line to prevent any rubbing on the new booster.
INstall your newly bent lines. I added a bit of power steering hose around the rear hard line to prevent any rubbing on the new booster.
0 2016/07/20 19:59:33
Tape it up to prevent leaking during install.
Tape it up to prevent leaking during install.
0 2016/07/20 20:00:40
Install the booster/MC and connect the lines.
Install the booster/MC and connect the lines.
0 2016/07/20 20:01:23
All hooked up!
All hooked up!
0 2016/07/20 20:01:47
Fit it in and install the lines.
Fit it in and install the lines.
0 2016/07/20 20:02:40
All hooked up! Just gotta swap the rear soft line and bleed the system.
All hooked up! Just gotta swap the rear soft line and bleed the system.
0 2016/07/20 20:03:01
Those two connectors from a couple posts ago connect to the washer fluid pumps.
Those two connectors from a couple posts ago connect to the washer fluid pumps.
0 2016/07/20 20:03:40
The new booster is thicker, forcing the washer fluid reservoir forward. Drill new holes and reinstall the screws.
The new booster is thicker, forcing the washer fluid reservoir forward. Drill new holes and reinstall the screws.
0 2016/07/20 20:04:13
According to Cruiser54, this ground is shared by front windshield washers, rear windshield washers, AC clutch relay, fan control relay, fog lamps, fan motor, headlamps, front turn signals, front side markers, and park lamps. http://cruiser54.com/?p=211
According to Cruiser54, this ground is shared by front windshield washers, rear windshield washers, AC clutch relay, fan control relay, fog lamps, fan motor, headlamps, front turn signals, front side markers, and park lamps. http://cruiser54.com/?p=211
0 2016/08/02 21:36:01
Clean it up, put it back together with OxGard.
Clean it up, put it back together with OxGard.
0 2016/08/02 21:39:25
I found a 1/8" bit the correct size for the new holes.
I found a 1/8" bit the correct size for the new holes.
0 2016/08/02 21:40:06
Some consequences of using a bigger booster: Wiper fluid bottle must move forward. This really squeezes the airbox and getting the lid on is a challenge.
Some consequences of using a bigger booster: Wiper fluid bottle must move forward. This really squeezes the airbox and getting the lid on is a challenge.
0 2016/08/02 21:41:05
I don't know why I didn't notice this when I swapped the radiator in, but the new fill neck keeps this clip from engaging.
I don't know why I didn't notice this when I swapped the radiator in, but the new fill neck keeps this clip from engaging.
0 2016/08/02 21:42:13
I cleaned all the vacuum lines as best I could, then RTV'd the big one together, as it comes apart with very little effort.
I cleaned all the vacuum lines as best I could, then RTV'd the big one together, as it comes apart with very little effort.
0 2016/08/02 21:42:55
0 2016/08/02 21:45:42
Still haven't refined my back-probing technique. Broke the plug.
Still haven't refined my back-probing technique. Broke the plug.
0 2016/08/02 21:45:56
0 2016/08/02 21:46:32
Solder in a new connector.
Solder in a new connector.
0 2016/08/02 21:46:40
This is the ECU pigtail and TPS part numbers from O'reilly. Decided not to swap the TCU pigtail.
This is the ECU pigtail and TPS part numbers from O'reilly. Decided not to swap the TCU pigtail.
0 2016/08/02 21:47:01
Put heat shrink on, solder connections, then move the heat shrink up and shrink it.
Put heat shrink on, solder connections, then move the heat shrink up and shrink it.
0 2016/08/02 21:48:48
Hard to see, but install the new vacuum line from the TB to the MAP sensor.
Hard to see, but install the new vacuum line from the TB to the MAP sensor.
0 2016/08/02 21:49:45
Reconnect the washer fluid motor electrical connectors.
Reconnect the washer fluid motor electrical connectors.
0 2016/08/02 21:50:27
No idea where this plugs.
No idea where this plugs.
0 2016/08/02 21:53:14