I dont mean to sound smug in my replies but i provided exact details on my issue, but its was ignored and i was told to "Turn it off and back on" in a sense
Thats frustrating
Nothing to do with my personal diction. No on likes a run around.

I wouldn't have went out of my way to create an account and post here if i wasn't genuinely stumped. Google is at my disposal just like the rest of us.

I even went out of my way to acquire an Extech multimeter for the job and it told me what i already confirmed all my fuses are fine and my wires have correct voltage and are conductive and that my battery is fine.

I could give it a shot, That would just mean reattaching the old headunit to the crappy splices i did.
After the mutlimeter analysis i feel more lost then before, unless the answer is staring me in the face like bad resistance or something?
I'm really clueless!

 

Parking/instrument lamps work?

 

"It should be right" is a far cry from "I tested it with a meter and everything is good". We aren't mind readers.


Now that you have tested it with a meter, test with a test light.

???? "What is this idiot talking about? If I've tested it with a meter it's good! Why would I waste my time testing with a test light???? Is this guy stupid or is he just messing with me?"

In my days of callow youth, I wasted a bunch of my time and my boss's time troubleshooting an E.F. Johnson 8700 (a commercial two-way radio) installed in a tow truck, that had nothing at all wrong with it.

To make a long story short, the reason it would not turn on was corrosion at the battery connection. I had tested the power lead at the radio with my meter (many times). There was no problem - I had full voltage. I even popped the cover off the radio and tested where the power connector was soldered into the board, and there was full voltage there.

But the radio would not turn on. Ergo, the radio is bad, right?

Wrong.

The corrosion on the battery connection created a high resistance. Since the meter does not draw any current to speak of, it measured full voltage even through the corrosion.

But a test light at the same location would not light. The test light was capable of drawing an appreciable amount of current, so as soon as I connected it, the voltage at the test point went to near zero.

Also test BOTH SIDES of the crimps. It's possible one of them is bad. Best is to unplug the radio and test right at the plug.

And I still wouldn't trust that ground.

 

None of the answers provided to you were in a fashion of patronization (I assume that's what you meant by "turn it off and back on"). You asked for help and, without physically being there to look at it, we're trying to do so as best we can.

If your fuses are good, and your multimeter (the fact that you have used a multimeter has been omitted until now, btw) are telling you that everything is good and it's still not powering on, the only thing left to do is to pull it out and bench test it. Grab yourself a 12v drill battery, hook up the yellow AND red wire to the positive, and the black to the negative. If it still doesn't power on, there are very few possibilities left:

a) The fuse on the back of the deck is bad and you just can't tell. This happens sometimes. Try replacing it with a brand new one.

b) The faceplate isn't seated correctly on the deck.

c) The contacts on the faceplate are bad. Try cleaning them with some alcohol and a cotton swab - both on the back of the faceplate and the stereo itself and reinstall.

d) As Roninofako mentioned, the internals of the deck are shorted out and you're out 80 bucks.

No offense meant by this at all sir, but if you're really that clueless, you need to stop getting so defensive with the people that are trying to help you. We don't know you, we don't know what you know, and you're not quite including the awesome detail you think you are.

"A thing not looked for is seldom found." - this is the method used when giving advice to someone whom you don't know the technical background of. We have to handle your question as if you know very little based on what little you've provided us... so we have to ask questions that apparently frustrate you and provide suggestions to you that apparently we should know you already tried.

 

Well said.

 

It is so hard to get internet website technicians to give good solid fixes these days.

 

 

I really appreciate the continued feedback! Everyones!

I didn't think everyone knit pick the words because i meant i was fairly positive it wasn't the wires or fuses i spent the time testing wires and pulling fuses from the dash and engine
Being an amateur with the meter i took many readings as stone.

I charged and cleaned my battery with baking soda and put a new negative connector on the battery wire and the radio is now working. I find it strange cause the radio worked fine before the install but i'm not complaining.
It is a beefier radio then the last in a technical sense so perhaps it needs just needed a bit more juice?

Once again thanks guys

 

Patience pays off.

Just for future reference, it's very hard to diagnose a vehicle over the internet without actually physically having our hands on it. So next time just try to give every detail possible so it makes it easier for us to help you out

 

Glad to hear you got it worked out, man. Grounds, grounds, grounds. They're so important and often overlooked. Above all, with ANYTHING electrical in your Jeep, make sure you have good grounds. Might be a good time to go through and clean ALL the grounds. It can NEVER hurt.

Stick around man, lots to learn on here.

 

Worked great the first time i wired it up, restarting the engine after it sat for a few hours, the antenna is out and the radio lights don't work (Dash lights do). This is how it worked in my escort too. Radio works fine through aux.

Do i have a faulty head unit since the problem persists in a second vehicle?
Didn't think the problem would happen in my jeep too :C

When ever i jumped my escort the radio lights and antenna would work for a day or so, haven't jumped my jeep with the new radio.

 

Sounds like it may be shorting out. BOSS is like the D35 of stereos. Some work great, while others slowly die.

 

Yea it loses its memory settings each time so the radio completely shuts off with the car? Everytime i pop the faceplate off i see the color for a millisec, I got it from sonic electronic maybe a year ago. Possibly under warranty.

 

if its losing memory after shutting the car off, the yellow wire may not be connected to an always live feed. Does the yellow wire on the radio maintain 12v with the key off? this should be the same feed for the 12v outlet.

Also if you replaced the negative terminal already it's likely in your best interest to also replace the positive terminal as well as they both have a high failure rate and this should help prevent future starting/charging issues in the future.

 

This

and this.

But it still wouldn't hurt to check your warranty. Sonic Electronix is a decent company. Shouldn't give you any problem about returning it if it's still under warranty and may be able to give you some more troubleshooting tips in regard to your problem too.