Legendslayer

So i have a 93 cherokee country, the previous owner had Walmart install a pioneer DEH-X26UI stereo head unit. and i attempted to install a Boss 742 RGB.

Regretablly a blew a few fuses but have since fixed them all and everything is working fine. everything but the radio. which seems to be getting no power at all? I don't understand everything is wired correctly and the fuses are good? The grounds should be fine, never had an issue... Radio fuse is fine.. Dome light, windows ect. all work but no radio power?

Is it because i didn't use the auto antenna blue wire? i highly doubt it but have no idea?

Im pretty stumped, is there something i missed?

SteveMongr

A multi-meter will tell you if there is power to the radio or not. I often see an in-line fuse in the power wire of radios, check that as well as ones in fuse box. Also the antenna must be connected for some radios to work.
When installing vehicle electronics, or cutting and splicing wires I prefer to remove negative battery terminal to prevent these issues.

XJRed96

there is a fuse on the back of the radio. is that fuse ok? you usually need to unplug the harness from the radio to access it.

on most standard aftermarket radio harnesses The yellow wire should have voltage at all times. the red wire should have voltage with key on. the black wire should have ground at all time. that's all you need for the radio to power up. the blue remote wire, the orange dimmer wire, are generally optional.

Did they/you use a plug and play harness or did they tap directly into the vehicle harness?

Legendslayer

The radio fuse and all the car radio/interior light fuses are fine as previously stated, the wiring should be correct too, the only thing unused on the radio was a blue auto antenna wire. The main antenna is of course plugged in.

The Pionner only had 1 16 pin connector on the back and the new Boss has 2 8 pin but again it shouldn't matter, The boss was just working in my other vehicle so the clip/pin set up on the back of the radio cant be wrong and the wires were only spliced into the corresponding wires from the last aftermarket radio in the cars interior.

Before its said, black IS going to black, Yellow is going to Pink and Red is going to the Purple and white. My thumb covers alot of detail
sorry for messy wires

Fred/N0AZZ

I hate to see hack jobs on the wiring like that first check each pin on the connector to make sure the crimp is ok and you have a good connection, they should be soldered with heat shrink applied not crimped.

Legendslayer

Your personal preference aside, the crimps were all done by someone else and it was all a working system before i made the cuts for a new head unit. If anything is faulty its how i twisted the copper but it was checked several times over.

SteveMongr

If matching jeeps wire color to radio wire color than that is likely the problem. Here is my suggestion. Go to the12volt.com and copy the wire color/function for your jeeps radio. Match that function to wire diagram on radio.

Legendslayer

NO offense and I appreciate the feedback but if my thread was TL DR for you, then don't post. My time is valuable and my Ego fragil.

SteveMongr

So you fixed it and figured out what was wired incorrectly and why multiple fuses blew? Good job
Not sure what you are referencing with acronyms.
Also notice that the antenna trigger and illumination wires are twisted together, those are both signal wires.

XJRed96

Have you checked for power yet with a dvom or power probe? If you hook the old radio back up will it power up with your current configuration?
you should also try and cut down on the splices you got there. cut the current crimps out, and your taped connections, and invest in some new crimps and do it right. if nothing else it will eliminate that as a possibility. A pack of crimps and a roll of heat shrink shouldn't set you back more than 10 or 12 bucks. and it should only take you 5 minutes.

BlueRidgeMark

Bingo. You keep saying "it should be correct"

Baloney. There's no "should be". It is or it isn't and unless you have TESTED it, you don't know.



Agree 100%. Twist and tape is asking for trouble. It's just not acceptable at all, unless it's a roadside emergency repair to get a vehicle running again.

And stop assuming the ground is good. Check it with a meter. If Wal-Mart had any role in this, your ground being good is highly doubtful.

Rogue4x4

X2. I thought exactly the same thing, Mark.

Why post if you're going to ignore good advice?

Suck up that "fragile ego", and go back over your work properly, as suggested above, both in the wiring locations and terminations, and I'm 95% sure you'll find the issue...the other 5% is for disclaimer of something done to short out the head units internals...good luck

cruiser54

Bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzt!!!

cruiser54

Perhaps this will help:

Outlaw Star

Quick and simple check for power to the radio. Wiring for aftermarket stereos is universally color coded.

Red is a SWITCHED power so it should ONLY have power once ignition is on.

Yellow is a CONSTANT/B+ this should have power ALL the time. Some even connect this direct to the battery w/a fuse in line.

Black...that's self explanatory as its a ground. Preferably extend it to a good chassis ground area.

Blue is Antenna and some have another as a Remote Amp turn on.

White, Grey, Purple and Green are all speakers.

Take a test light and first tag the Yellow wire to see if it has power. If so, move to the Red to see if the light comes on when the ignition is turned on.

Red and Yellow are going to be the two to look at for this.