The tale of SuperMJ
Thread Starter
CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19,219
Likes: 45
From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
I needed to get my motivation back with working on the truck. So I decided to look for an easy project to do...
I had already sold my column shift cluster that I rebuilt. I'm kicking myself because I FORGOT to swap the face bezels ugh. (I had black on that cluster and some boring grey **** on this one).
I gotta look for another one now.
Anyway I had a spare bezel and I tried painting it, didn't come out good so I trashed it. I guess I ll run the dull grey **** for now.
I took the bezel out, cleaned all the gauge faces, washed the bezel and the lens. I reset the mileage to 250,743. Installed the new speedo cable through the firewall and put the gauge cluster back in place on the dash.


I had already sold my column shift cluster that I rebuilt. I'm kicking myself because I FORGOT to swap the face bezels ugh. (I had black on that cluster and some boring grey **** on this one).
I gotta look for another one now.
Anyway I had a spare bezel and I tried painting it, didn't come out good so I trashed it. I guess I ll run the dull grey **** for now.
I took the bezel out, cleaned all the gauge faces, washed the bezel and the lens. I reset the mileage to 250,743. Installed the new speedo cable through the firewall and put the gauge cluster back in place on the dash.


Thread Starter
CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19,219
Likes: 45
From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Also. I don't know if I mentioned it already but I m trading a doubler I built for a set of clean 97+ doors with manual crank windows. It has grey door panels. I'm thinking I should either look for black or camel tan (probably better with camel).
Anybody got that?
Anybody got that?
Thread Starter
CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19,219
Likes: 45
From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Permanently installed steering system.
A little whoop... I forgot to weld a steering stabilizer bracket on the truss so maybe I ll just make something that ll bolt on.

Also scored a 3x5 angle steel that's 1/4" thick from work


Not sure if I ll leave it at 63" long or cut it at frame rail ends. I ll have to build the bed first and see how that go. I'm thinking I should leave it at 63 so it can support the rear corners of the bed and have better bumper mounting system.
A little whoop... I forgot to weld a steering stabilizer bracket on the truss so maybe I ll just make something that ll bolt on.

Also scored a 3x5 angle steel that's 1/4" thick from work


Not sure if I ll leave it at 63" long or cut it at frame rail ends. I ll have to build the bed first and see how that go. I'm thinking I should leave it at 63 so it can support the rear corners of the bed and have better bumper mounting system.
CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,820
Likes: 60
From: Pasquotank, NC
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I’d cut it the width of the frame rails. The frame rails will support the bed the rest of the length, why deviate at the rear? I don’t see a need for the rear corners of the bed to be stronger than the rest of it. Mounting the bumper outboard of the frame rails puts a load on the frame at an angle if you pull on it. That angle hanging out each side will also be a head knocker.
I would drill some holes through the angle at the end of the frame rails and weld nuts on the backside of the angle before welding on as bumper mounting points.
I would drill some holes through the angle at the end of the frame rails and weld nuts on the backside of the angle before welding on as bumper mounting points.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19,219
Likes: 45
From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
To clarify. I wouldn't be mounting the bumper directly on the ends of the angle. It ll be mounted directly at the location where the frame rails meet the angle. If I do decide to add the additional mounting points on the ends, it ll be just supplementary strengthening points.
IF I do keep the 63" width. I will be cutting a slope on the bottom so it tapers a bit towards to the ends.
IF I do keep the 63" width. I will be cutting a slope on the bottom so it tapers a bit towards to the ends.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19,219
Likes: 45
From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Cut all the old injector connectors off and soldered in those from an 97.

Here's how I mounted the renix fuel rail on the 99 intake manifold. I got the idea from SatiricalHen. Apparently the renix rail is actually of a smaller diameter than a 97+ so I just simply cut the tabs off that and it fits around the renix diameter perfectly.


Here's how I mounted the renix fuel rail on the 99 intake manifold. I got the idea from SatiricalHen. Apparently the renix rail is actually of a smaller diameter than a 97+ so I just simply cut the tabs off that and it fits around the renix diameter perfectly.

Thread Starter
CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19,219
Likes: 45
From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
How many of those tabs did you end up using?
Also I'm been informed that my steel will be arriving next Friday. Pretty excited here
Thread Starter
CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19,219
Likes: 45
From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by CobraMarty
They are different?


