FS[NorAtl]: Upgraded battery cables
Thread Starter
CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19,219
Likes: 45
From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
My birthday is coming up... this Saturday in fact. To celebrate. I ll give y'all 16% discount.
Send me an email to meanlemons@gmail.com with this code word. XJ16%
Send me an email to meanlemons@gmail.com with this code word. XJ16%
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
My birthday is coming up... this Saturday in fact. To celebrate. I ll give y'all 16% discount.
Send me an email to meanlemons@gmail.com with this code word. XJ16%
Send me an email to meanlemons@gmail.com with this code word. XJ16%
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,867
Likes: 16
From: Fauquier County, Virginia
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Per request, here is my setup compliments of Neal! A bit different than stock as I have a larger battery with the posts swapped. I also have an auxiliary fuse/relay box (which is now powered by a custom cable that Neal made, if I might add).
Very happy with the quality! Keep in mind the pic with battery installed is before I installed Neal's 4 AWG cable with the 12 AWG Haz fuse lead.
Very happy with the quality! Keep in mind the pic with battery installed is before I installed Neal's 4 AWG cable with the 12 AWG Haz fuse lead.
Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It was definitely time for an upgrade. My alternator burned up and locked. I upgraded to a 136 amp alternator and the 4ga cable kit. I’m really happy with the quality of these cables. Install was straight forward and everything is running well.
I'm trying to install my new cables from Neal, and I hit a snag. Where the ground cable mounts to the engine I had to cut the connections loose. Now that the stud and nut are out, I still can't separate the two. I'd like to replace it with the stock part if possible, but my local dealership can't even find a part number for that stud and nut. Does anybody here know a part number or even proper nomenclature for the stud and nut that connect a negative cable to a Renix 4.0 engine block? If not, I'll just hit the hardware store and rig something up. (Love those cables Neal! Some of the covering on my old cables actually slid off the cables as I was doing the swap! Scary!) Thanks.
Ron
Ron
Thread Starter
CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19,219
Likes: 45
From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
So sooner or later I have to pull the trigger on your cables. I have tried to research this myself but I am confused by a couple things or want to make sure I am understanding what I am reading correctly.
Assuming the alternator I get built is 150 amps or less would I be fine with the 4 gauge set?
Also I confused by the fuse you sell with your cables. Is the fuseable link what is in the little box in front of the fuse box in the engine compartment?
Does the fuse you sell replace that? It looks like most people place your fuse between the fender and battery. I have my cruise control there and at the moment am still running the hood rod. Thinking at some point I will replace that with a hood strut set up. But thinking there is not really enough room there now. From pictures it looks like some people are replacing the fuseable link with your fuse and putting it in front of the fuse box in the engine compartment. If that is the case does the length of the cables of your in your standard set up allow for this?
Sorry for the questions. I hope what I am asking is clear. I really did try to find the answers myself.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19,219
Likes: 45
From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Ralph77
Some of next years projects include an alternator, battery cable, and headlight harness upgrade. Got a guy who rebuilds alternators. Thinks he can rebuild one for my '00 XJ that could pump out as much as 150 amps. I want a straight bolt in which is why I am going this route instead of a GC or Durango one.
So sooner or later I have to pull the trigger on your cables. I have tried to research this myself but I am confused by a couple things or want to make sure I am understanding what I am reading correctly.
Assuming the alternator I get built is 150 amps or less would I be fine with the 4 gauge set?
YES THATS CORRECT
Also I confused by the fuse you sell with your cables. Is the fuseable link what is in the little box in front of the fuse box in the engine compartment?
YES THATS CORRECT. THE FUSE REPLACES THAT.
Does the fuse you sell replace that?
THATS RIGHT
It looks like most people place your fuse between the fender and battery. I have my cruise control there and at the moment am still running the hood rod. Thinking at some point I will replace that with a hood strut set up. But thinking there is not really enough room there now. From pictures it looks like some people are replacing the fuseable link with your fuse and putting it in front of the fuse box in the engine compartment. If that is the case does the length of the cables of your in your standard set up allow for this?
YES THE ALTERNATOR CABLE ARE SLIGHTLY LONGER TO ALLOW THE FLEXIBILITY OF LOCATING YOUR FUSEHOLDER TO YOUR PREFERENCE.
Sorry for the questions. I hope what I am asking is clear. I really did try to find the answers myself.
So sooner or later I have to pull the trigger on your cables. I have tried to research this myself but I am confused by a couple things or want to make sure I am understanding what I am reading correctly.
Assuming the alternator I get built is 150 amps or less would I be fine with the 4 gauge set?
YES THATS CORRECT
Also I confused by the fuse you sell with your cables. Is the fuseable link what is in the little box in front of the fuse box in the engine compartment?
YES THATS CORRECT. THE FUSE REPLACES THAT.
Does the fuse you sell replace that?
THATS RIGHT
It looks like most people place your fuse between the fender and battery. I have my cruise control there and at the moment am still running the hood rod. Thinking at some point I will replace that with a hood strut set up. But thinking there is not really enough room there now. From pictures it looks like some people are replacing the fuseable link with your fuse and putting it in front of the fuse box in the engine compartment. If that is the case does the length of the cables of your in your standard set up allow for this?
YES THE ALTERNATOR CABLE ARE SLIGHTLY LONGER TO ALLOW THE FLEXIBILITY OF LOCATING YOUR FUSEHOLDER TO YOUR PREFERENCE.
Sorry for the questions. I hope what I am asking is clear. I really did try to find the answers myself.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by XJwonders
Christmas sale!
20% off on complete sets! Good until Monday January 1
20% off on complete sets! Good until Monday January 1
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0



