Desarial

I have a 1989 XJ 4.0L

I just swapped in a zj 136a alternator. but my gauge is reading at 9v even if I'm just on battery power. the problem with this is I JUST bought the battery, like 2 hours ago. I know I was having alot of voltage issues with my old alternator and battery and assumed they were going bad, but now the voltage reads even lower. is there any chance that i could have wired the new alternator wrong? I used the old voltage regulator off of a ford. it's got I.A.S.F on it. I have F connected to a field terminal on the alternator, S is connected to the yellow wire that plugged into the OEM alternator, and A is connected to the tan wire that plugged into the OEM alternator. everything is grounded, the alt case and the second field terminal. I did notice that the stock Ground wire for the battery is shot to hell, could this be the issue? also, how does the Voltage meter acquire it's signal?

and if anybody is interested in some MORE fun, I replaced my head gasket. it runs the same as before, with some minor differences:
I'm aware of a leak in a couple of radiator hoses. some of the antifreeze has gone down the side of the valve cover and slightly saturated the manifold gasket. and for some unknown reason, when I start my jeep up, after about 30 seconds, it starts throwing smoke from the manifold area and it just gets thicker the longer the jeep is on. The smoke smells like Pam baking grease, or hot butter. kinda like a pancake.

thanks guys.

freegdr

look in write up section pretty sure there one been done

Desarial

yeah you're right, there is, but the problem is that he does nothing with the stock wiring and rewired his 12v ignition wire. there are clearly 2 wires coming off and he chose not to use either. i didn't like that approach, and how to do it isn't what I'm asking, it's why i might get a low voltage read. kinda feels like you read the title and not the the actual post.

kjc

Isn't the voltage regulated by the PCM? I know mine is, maybe it's not on your '89. In any case, I'd use a multimeter to check voltage if you're relying on the jeep voltmeter alone.

cruiser54

89 had a Delco internally regulated alternator.

freegdr

did you do it like this.....https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/zj...nix-xj-109847/

Desarial

No, not quite. similar, but I used a different voltage regulator and the stock wiring. same idea, 12v ign wire on one side, and a wire for the alternator on the other. grounded the alternator, and there's another wire that has an anonymous use that I connected to a 3rd contact on the voltage regulator. I'll find the link to the instructions i followed. also, it would seem the smoke if from a gasket that's soaked in antifreeze. it burned off mostly. and we tested the alternator with a multimeter, it read a. 11.xx.

freegdr

so after this upgrade gauge no longer works

freegdr

should read more like 13 some thing at idle

Desarial

http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/...mp-alternator/

that's the setups i used. more or less.

Edit: I also just found this

http://americanstreetmasters.com/Wiring_101_15.jpg

might try that wiring, though i'm pretty sure the voltage read is a bad alternator.

Desarial

no, i was having voltage issues before the swap. but I had an ancient stock alternator and a battery with 1 dead cell, and it still read at 12v when the key was on acc. the voltage only dropped when i started it and turn stuff on. the new alt sits at about 10v in the gauge and and reads 11 on the meter.

5-90

It's possible you've miswired the regulator. It's far more common to use an old ChryCo regulator or a Marine unit (like a Prestolite) with fewer wires to screw up.

However, why the ZJ (Nippondenso) alternator? It's easy to wind a Delco CS-130 up to comparable power levels (if you can't get the parts, any competent alternator/starter shop can get them and do it for you) and not have the wiring hassle to go through.

Since you're saying you're running about 9V (have you verified the IP voltmeter independently? The RENIX voltmeter is a notorious liar...) it sounds like you're running off of battery - which means the regulator either isn't sensing system voltage or isn't generating output for the field coils (which means the alternator won't be generating any output at all, either way.)

The shop I've used (San Jose Generator) for the last 12 years or so I finally talked into doing mail-order, and his information is on my site - scroll down and click the San Jose Generator link. He'll do a 140A CS-130 - drop in and go! - for $140, as I recall (I'm not looking at the site now.) He only has a 1-year warranty on automotive parts, but the best warranty is the one you don't need, and I've never needed his.

The reason I usually don't suggest trying to retrofit an ND into a RENIX is because it's easy enough to screw up the regulator wiring - easier to just upwind a CS130 and install than, I think. (I've done retrofits, I've installed upwinds; and installing an upwind is far easier to do!)

Desarial

Thanks 5-90, somehow I knew you'd chime in. I'm going to play with the wiring, and I have a 2 wire regulator to play with so I'll do that too. I really think it's the alternator though, I DID get it from a junkyard. I didn't want to do the install, mess something up, and destroy a brand new alternator.

Desarial

OMFG. this is annoying me, the yellow and brown wires. what EXACTLY are they for? i sort that out, I'm golden. and a new alt....

5-90

Per 1990 FSM:

For the 4-150 engine:
- 20TAN runs to the IP (right-hand cluster, facing the instrument side. Pin #3.)
- 16YEL comes off of the ignition switch (spliced to the 12YEL wire on it.)

For the 6-242 engine:
-18TAN runs to the IP (same location)
-16YEL runs to CKT11 (14YEL,) splices into various circuits, and feeds off of the 12YEL wire on the ignition switch.

Hope that helps! Your 1989 should have the same colours of wiring as the 1990 FSM (there was some change mid-year 1988, but they were minor.)