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Where are you shopping? $130 is the cheapest I've found and used axle assemblies with 90 day warranty average $150 to $200 in my area. Some even come with calipers and steering linkage atttatched.
$60 was a little low apparently. It's been awhile since I bought mine. I just found a few places for about $85. Specifically if you add it to a gear set through rwkhaus, or just google shopping.
Here's the cheapest one I found: $75 and free shipping
$60 was a little low apparently. It's been awhile since I bought mine. I just found a few places for about $85. Specifically if you add it to a gear set through rwkhaus, or just google shopping.
Here's the cheapest one I found: $75 and free shipping
That price is for an empty carrier. No spider gears, I had found a carrier on C.L. and he was selling it for $70 and after I looked it up I call him back to pass on it because that is not saving me anything. A loaded carrier is about $170 from what I a have seen.
That price is for an empty carrier. No spider gears, I had found a carrier on C.L. and he was selling it for $70 and after I looked it up I call him back to pass on it because that is not saving me anything. A loaded carrier is about $170 from what I a have seen.
Oh I was under the impression you could use the old spiders. I never actually used the carrier I bought lol.
Oh I was under the impression you could use the old spiders. I never actually used the carrier I bought lol.
I'm pretty sure you can. I wouldn't have spider gears in mine anyway. Locked front and rear is the only way to go especially if you're having to buy a new carrier anyway.
I'm pretty sure you can. I wouldn't have spider gears in mine anyway. Locked front and rear is the only way to go especially if you're having to buy a new carrier anyway.
I agree if you are changing the carrier that is the time to do a locker, except when I do a locker in the front I want an e-locker. I don't know the first thing on how to do gearing (I have swapped axles but not gears). So if I was to pay some one to do the work I would rather not have to pay them to do the locker later.
I want to go to 4.10's really soon so I snagged a set of axles ($100) with 4.11's, but the rear is a Dana 35, so I'll be ponying up to change the rear gearing one way or the other.
I bought some factory upper bump stops for the front.
I plan to use lower bump stop extensions for the rest of the limitation,
But how do you mount them onto the axle?
And whose would you use?
I bought some factory upper bump stops for the front. I plan to use lower bump stop extensions for the rest of the limitation, But how do you mount them onto the axle? And whose would you use?
Drill holes through the coil perches. And I used hockey pucks. Works great.
I bought some factory upper bump stops for the front. I plan to use lower bump stop extensions for the rest of the limitation, But how do you mount them onto the axle? And whose would you use?
I used a 3" body lift off of a Chevy and drilled and tapped the cool bucket.
I don't see nothin wrong with that, will definately use mine for bumpstops.
Ordered some shackle relocators today, will see how the rear sits after they are installed and am going to try to match the front ride height to the rear.
Also ordered some yj brake lines.
Then it will be time for shocks.
Really not sure if I want a full spring or spring/ spacer combo in the front.
I have a true 3" spacer with factory TJ coils on it now, but I'm still about 1" lower in the front than the back.
Not sure how much lift it really has,
Distance from axle to frame is
8&1/4" in front.
9" in back.
My stock replacement track bar keeps loosening up at the mount, this is the third time in 192 miles.
I'm tired of fooling with it.
Guess I'm going to buy an adjustable one.
Any of you fella's have recommendations on a good one for 3" of lift?
Most I see with bracket are for 4+"
My stock replacement track bar keeps loosening up at the mount, this is the third time in 192 miles.
I'm tired of fooling with it.
Guess I'm going to buy an adjustable one.
Any of you fella's have recommendations on a good one for 3" of lift?
Most I see with bracket are for 4+"
I forgot to add pictures.
Put two of them on just to see how bad it's going to be.
Not really sure how the body leveled itself...
I finally got my relocators installed.
I put a 4" frame mounted bump stop on but I don't think it's going to be enough for me to get a decent shock set up.
I'm needing to figure something out there, my shocks have a compressed length of about 14" with BPE'S and are almost maxing out when the axle hits the stop.
I'm considering some of the spring plates with bumpstop mount to help out there.
Got it to where it's drivable with the 33's.
I think I have enough clearance around the differential housing to take the upper bumpstops out, they are 2.5" long... what ya'll think?
For the rear, I have springplates with bumpstop pieces made onto them from dirtbound with a 4" bumpstop but need to remove the flare and trim the body.
How do I safely trim the seamed area?
Or can you?
