what alternators will work
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,018
Likes: 23
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
"Clocking" actually refers to the location of the connectors on the back of the alternator - because the rear case can be rotated WRT the front.
The old Delco SI series, for instance, could be clocked to one of four positions, generally to clear the wiring for the regulator connector (which entered the side.) 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, or 9:00 were your options. This was basically because there were four through screws joining the case halves.
With the CS series, there are three case screws, therefore there are three possible locations (and these can vary by the position of components on the back case half; but they'll be 120 degrees apart, vice 90 degrees.)
The clock positions are looking at the back of the alternator, with the mounting "spool" (takes the longer screw - could either be a solid spool a couple of inches long or a "doubled ear") at the bottom, or 6:00.
The position of the "adjuster ear" (single ear, shorter when measured front-to-back) is also given as a clock position, looking at the front of the alternator, with the spool also at 6:00. On the RENIX engine I've got out in the garage on a stand (dressed short block,) the adjuster ear on the alternator is at roughly 1:30
The pictured alternator looks to be at roughly 10:30, which puts it on the wrong side.
However, as I mentioned before, the front case halves among a given alternator series are what usually carry the mounting ears, and will generally swap back and forth among units of the same series. (You can swap front case halves among CS130 units, but not from a CS130 to a CS121 or CS144. And don't even think about swapping a case half from a CS130 to a 12SI - it's unpossible, without some serious adaptation and machine work!
Reclocking an alternator is easy - just don't pull the case halves too far apart, or you'll have to finish pulling it apart so you can put the brushes back into place (and don't force it together if you pop the brushes loose - you'll snap a brush, then it won't work at all!) Swapping a front case half is only slightly more work - same caveat applies tho: if you pull the rotor out too far, you'll have to pull it out the rest of the way to reset the brushes. If you can do it without disturbing the rotor, you'll be fine.
If you do have to reset the brushes, you need to pull the rotor out all of the way. Then push the brushes back in with a finger until they're behind the through hole in the brush holder, then stick a short bit of solid wire or a toothpick into the hole to hold the brushes back (brush replacement kits and brushholder assemblies used to include toothpicks in the box for this very reason, guys who do this a lot usually have a 3" or so bit of solid wire in their toolkit for this purpose.) Drop the rotor back in, the wire or stick will push out through a hole in the back of the case to make room. Once the rotor is in place and secured, simply pull the stick or wire the rest of the way out - you'll hear a slight "click" as the brushes settle back onto the sliprings, this is fine.
The old Delco SI series, for instance, could be clocked to one of four positions, generally to clear the wiring for the regulator connector (which entered the side.) 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, or 9:00 were your options. This was basically because there were four through screws joining the case halves.
With the CS series, there are three case screws, therefore there are three possible locations (and these can vary by the position of components on the back case half; but they'll be 120 degrees apart, vice 90 degrees.)
The clock positions are looking at the back of the alternator, with the mounting "spool" (takes the longer screw - could either be a solid spool a couple of inches long or a "doubled ear") at the bottom, or 6:00.
The position of the "adjuster ear" (single ear, shorter when measured front-to-back) is also given as a clock position, looking at the front of the alternator, with the spool also at 6:00. On the RENIX engine I've got out in the garage on a stand (dressed short block,) the adjuster ear on the alternator is at roughly 1:30
The pictured alternator looks to be at roughly 10:30, which puts it on the wrong side.
However, as I mentioned before, the front case halves among a given alternator series are what usually carry the mounting ears, and will generally swap back and forth among units of the same series. (You can swap front case halves among CS130 units, but not from a CS130 to a CS121 or CS144. And don't even think about swapping a case half from a CS130 to a 12SI - it's unpossible, without some serious adaptation and machine work!
Reclocking an alternator is easy - just don't pull the case halves too far apart, or you'll have to finish pulling it apart so you can put the brushes back into place (and don't force it together if you pop the brushes loose - you'll snap a brush, then it won't work at all!) Swapping a front case half is only slightly more work - same caveat applies tho: if you pull the rotor out too far, you'll have to pull it out the rest of the way to reset the brushes. If you can do it without disturbing the rotor, you'll be fine.
If you do have to reset the brushes, you need to pull the rotor out all of the way. Then push the brushes back in with a finger until they're behind the through hole in the brush holder, then stick a short bit of solid wire or a toothpick into the hole to hold the brushes back (brush replacement kits and brushholder assemblies used to include toothpicks in the box for this very reason, guys who do this a lot usually have a 3" or so bit of solid wire in their toolkit for this purpose.) Drop the rotor back in, the wire or stick will push out through a hole in the back of the case to make room. Once the rotor is in place and secured, simply pull the stick or wire the rest of the way out - you'll hear a slight "click" as the brushes settle back onto the sliprings, this is fine.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
From: Memphis tenn
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6 4.0
Originally Posted by 5-90
"Clocking" actually refers to the location of the connectors on the back of the alternator - because the rear case can be rotated WRT the front.
The old Delco SI series, for instance, could be clocked to one of four positions, generally to clear the wiring for the regulator connector (which entered the side.) 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, or 9:00 were your options. This was basically because there were four through screws joining the case halves.
With the CS series, there are three case screws, therefore there are three possible locations (and these can vary by the position of components on the back case half; but they'll be 120 degrees apart, vice 90 degrees.)
The clock positions are looking at the back of the alternator, with the mounting "spool" (takes the longer screw - could either be a solid spool a couple of inches long or a "doubled ear") at the bottom, or 6:00.
The position of the "adjuster ear" (single ear, shorter when measured front-to-back) is also given as a clock position, looking at the front of the alternator, with the spool also at 6:00. On the RENIX engine I've got out in the garage on a stand (dressed short block,) the adjuster ear on the alternator is at roughly 1:30
The pictured alternator looks to be at roughly 10:30, which puts it on the wrong side.
However, as I mentioned before, the front case halves among a given alternator series are what usually carry the mounting ears, and will generally swap back and forth among units of the same series. (You can swap front case halves among CS130 units, but not from a CS130 to a CS121 or CS144. And don't even think about swapping a case half from a CS130 to a 12SI - it's unpossible, without some serious adaptation and machine work!
Reclocking an alternator is easy - just don't pull the case halves too far apart, or you'll have to finish pulling it apart so you can put the brushes back into place (and don't force it together if you pop the brushes loose - you'll snap a brush, then it won't work at all!) Swapping a front case half is only slightly more work - same caveat applies tho: if you pull the rotor out too far, you'll have to pull it out the rest of the way to reset the brushes. If you can do it without disturbing the rotor, you'll be fine.
If you do have to reset the brushes, you need to pull the rotor out all of the way. Then push the brushes back in with a finger until they're behind the through hole in the brush holder, then stick a short bit of solid wire or a toothpick into the hole to hold the brushes back (brush replacement kits and brushholder assemblies used to include toothpicks in the box for this very reason, guys who do this a lot usually have a 3" or so bit of solid wire in their toolkit for this purpose.) Drop the rotor back in, the wire or stick will push out through a hole in the back of the case to make room. Once the rotor is in place and secured, simply pull the stick or wire the rest of the way out - you'll hear a slight "click" as the brushes settle back onto the sliprings, this is fine.
The old Delco SI series, for instance, could be clocked to one of four positions, generally to clear the wiring for the regulator connector (which entered the side.) 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, or 9:00 were your options. This was basically because there were four through screws joining the case halves.
With the CS series, there are three case screws, therefore there are three possible locations (and these can vary by the position of components on the back case half; but they'll be 120 degrees apart, vice 90 degrees.)
The clock positions are looking at the back of the alternator, with the mounting "spool" (takes the longer screw - could either be a solid spool a couple of inches long or a "doubled ear") at the bottom, or 6:00.
The position of the "adjuster ear" (single ear, shorter when measured front-to-back) is also given as a clock position, looking at the front of the alternator, with the spool also at 6:00. On the RENIX engine I've got out in the garage on a stand (dressed short block,) the adjuster ear on the alternator is at roughly 1:30
The pictured alternator looks to be at roughly 10:30, which puts it on the wrong side.
However, as I mentioned before, the front case halves among a given alternator series are what usually carry the mounting ears, and will generally swap back and forth among units of the same series. (You can swap front case halves among CS130 units, but not from a CS130 to a CS121 or CS144. And don't even think about swapping a case half from a CS130 to a 12SI - it's unpossible, without some serious adaptation and machine work!
Reclocking an alternator is easy - just don't pull the case halves too far apart, or you'll have to finish pulling it apart so you can put the brushes back into place (and don't force it together if you pop the brushes loose - you'll snap a brush, then it won't work at all!) Swapping a front case half is only slightly more work - same caveat applies tho: if you pull the rotor out too far, you'll have to pull it out the rest of the way to reset the brushes. If you can do it without disturbing the rotor, you'll be fine.
If you do have to reset the brushes, you need to pull the rotor out all of the way. Then push the brushes back in with a finger until they're behind the through hole in the brush holder, then stick a short bit of solid wire or a toothpick into the hole to hold the brushes back (brush replacement kits and brushholder assemblies used to include toothpicks in the box for this very reason, guys who do this a lot usually have a 3" or so bit of solid wire in their toolkit for this purpose.) Drop the rotor back in, the wire or stick will push out through a hole in the back of the case to make room. Once the rotor is in place and secured, simply pull the stick or wire the rest of the way out - you'll hear a slight "click" as the brushes settle back onto the sliprings, this is fine.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
From: Memphis tenn
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6 4.0
Originally Posted by anothadayridin
Well killed the threading on the alternator gonna weld it n see if it will work
Will cs130d work?
Last edited by anothadayridin; Jul 2, 2012 at 12:16 AM.
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