I have no idea what amp alternator I have in my 1990 4.0L XJ, but need a new one. My local pullpart webiste has an interchange app. that shows what other vehicles they have on site that will be a direct replacement for my 90 XJ (currently an 82 and 83 buick regal and 84 and 85 camaro). How can I tell what amperage rating mine is, and what the JY ones are? I might as well shoot for a higher amp alt....they are all the same price.

 

If it's the original alternator, I'd recommend requesting a build sheet on your '90, it specifies the alternator output as it came from the factory. In my case ('89 4.0L) the line item was specified as: BAYP 105 Amp Alternator

As far as identifying the output of one from an 80s-era Buick or Camero... I have no idea but I'm sure someone will.

 

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bud...herokee-58797/

 

use the alrernator froma v8 grand cherokee. They have a higher output than a stock cherokees alternator

 

There's no point in bumping up your amperage unless you've upgraded the wiring/grounding in your charge system...you probably already know that though...

 

Different than the old Renix Delco alternators. The alternator used is a CS-130 IIRC. Contact a generator/alternator/starter rebuilder in your area.

 

Won't work - that's only a direct swap for 1991-up with the Nippondenso.

Better idea - the alternator should in fact be a Delco CS130 (although some 1987-1990 XJ/MJ w/4-150 came with the CS121. However, one should be able to replace the CS121 with a CS130.)

The Delco may be readily upwound - and, while the XJ mounting is odd, the CS130 front casing can usually be swapped quite readily - and the mounting ears are on the front case half.

The OEM alternator is either 61A, 85A, or 100/105A - if you go past that, I'd definitely recommend upgrading the wiring. If you upgrade even to 100A and plan to use it, I'd also consider upgrading the wiring.

Any competent rewind shop should be able to push a C130 up to the 125-140A output range with no difficulty -if you can't find one locally, I talked mine into doing mail-order. You'll deal with Rod directly - click the link in my sig and go to the San Jose Generator pages (he keeps banker's hours, Pacific time, but I've long found his work to be rock-solid.)

 

On my build sheet it says - BAUS 117 amp alt. Does that mean I already have upgraded wiring?

 

I don't have a build sheet, but I did find the line ticket under the drivers door panel. Found ALT on the form, and under that in dot matrix print '98'. Not sure if this is the original alt, and what output I have now, just didnt want to miss an opportunity to grab a junkyard jewel. I'm definitley going low buck on this replacement...$12.36, I might even pony up $3.52 for the 30-day warranty

 

Probably not. The OEM wiring is 6AWG, and automakers are generally cheap with their wiring (Ford is the worst of the lot - Chrysler is next.)

Engineers and Accountants get into fights over this sort of thing all the time -but the Accountants end up winning. Which means we get screwed - and it leaves plenty of room for upgrades in just about anything.

 

can a one wie alternator be used on renix?

 

I wire brushed my old alternator, and found a bunch of "dot matrix" numbers stamped up by the mounting ear that faces the engine. My old alternator said 85A. This morning at the pullapart, I found an 87 or 88 XJ, alternator bearing felt alright, so I pulled it...100A

 

A one-wire alternator may be used on anything. The catch is that if you have an external regulator (like 1991-up Jeep) and you switch to a one-wire, you'll get a persistent CEL/MIL because the PCM will think that the OEM regulator isn't working.

RENIX, however, doesn't care.

 

From my understanding the 91s n up are internal not external

 

Half marks - reversed.

1984-1986 XJ/MJ (and plenty of later Jeeps) used the Delco SI series - internal regulator.
1987-1990 XJ/MJ got the Delco CS130 - internal regulator.
1991-up Jeep (ChryCo-spec) used Nippondenso alternators - external regulator. Worse, if the regulator fails, it's not a standalone circuit, you'll have to replace the entire damned PCM (for, what $500?) to replace what should be a $20 standalone part (the voltage regulator.)