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water proofing the xj

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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 03:50 PM
  #1  
cornrush's Avatar
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From: spring tx
Year: 1997
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Engine: 4.0 straight 6
Default water proofing the xj

so whats the eisiest way to keep all the electronics under the hood safe I've got the snorkel but i need this water proofed too
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 04:58 PM
  #2  
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How deep do you need to go?
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 08:02 PM
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possibly over the hood
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 08:37 PM
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Sounds like you need a boat. Some people seem to get away with this. Some don't. Theres a bunch of threads on this forum about it. Scroll all the way to the bottom of the screen.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 10:21 PM
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Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by cornrush
so whats the eisiest way to keep all the electronics under the hood safe I've got the snorkel but i need this water proofed too
Two words, dieletric grease
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 12:18 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by 89 xj stroker
Two words, dieletric grease
And pray you never have to work on any of that **** ever again. :P
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 06:30 AM
  #7  
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From: Flint/Asheville
Year: 1995
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Could move the computer and power distribution to inside of the vehicle
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 07:02 AM
  #8  
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From: Finger Lakes Region NY
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
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waterproofing is tough. water resistant is more likely. heat shrink wrap every connection. dielectric grease. relocate as many components as possible in the cab. STAY OUT OF THE WATER
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 08:44 AM
  #9  
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From: Westfield MA
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Its easier to do this on newer XJs with coil packs.. As soon as the distributer gets wet your dead in the water literally lol. Heat shrink everything relocate battery to cargo area make shift gaskets in the fuse panels. The starter n alternator ive got nothin on but Im sure there is plenty of threads try searchin a few different things. Good luck!
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 09:24 AM
  #10  
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From: Fauquier County, Virginia
Year: 1991
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Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
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I saw a thread once where a guy did a lot of water crossing and what not. He bought an extra Power block from Napa I think for his accesories, mounted it inside a tupper ware bowl (the good ones with the rubber seal), then siliconed the holes where the wires came through. As for the PDC, he did the same with the wires, siliconing every wire entry point, and then he did a gasket/screw down deal where the lid of the PDC was completely sealed. As for the distributor, I know guys with LT1 cars use two things: The factory installed a vent system for the optispark, and then the owners would take the optispark off and silicone the crap out of it. Next thing you know, many of them reported actually being able to spray down their engine with no issues, and appariently the optispark is VERY sensitive to water. My guess is silicone your distributor cap, and maybe try and install a vacuum system similiar to the CCV system on the engine. This would keep moisture sucked out of the dizzy. Just a thought.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 09:34 AM
  #11  
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From: Milwaukee, WI
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Could you PLEASE post a link to the thread? It would be a great resource for us to have!
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 10:47 AM
  #12  
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From: Fauquier County, Virginia
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
Could you PLEASE post a link to the thread? It would be a great resource for us to have!
Yeah, no problem. It's been a little while since I read it, but google should yield the forum it was on. As soon as I find it, I will post.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 11:07 AM
  #13  
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From: Fauquier County, Virginia
Year: 1991
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Alright, so I did some searching, and I couldn't find the exact thread, but I did find a thread for the accesory fuse thing I listed. This is for the tupperware bowl accesory fuse box.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/ch...-block-111039/



And here's another, same basic idea:



I personally like the XJ one better. It was in chat a little while ago.

For the fuse block, I am having a hard time locating either the original thread or a similar one. But what he did was find an o-ring or gasket that would fit around the inside of PDC lid, and he sliliconed/rtv'ed it in the lid. Then he took 4 longer bolts (but not thick... maybe 1/4" at most, but long enough to go through the PDC lid, the PDC itself, and out the bottom), drilled 4 small holes just large enough for the bolt to fit through at each corner or the PDC, and then used a nut on the end of each bolt along with a washer and a small o-ring (similar to injector o-rings) at each end of the bolt to seal everything and tighten the gasket down. But before that, he had siliconed all inlets of the PDC around the wires. I wish I could find the thread... pictures are worth a thousand words.

Anyways, as for the dizzy vent install, I figured doing something similiar to the LT1 optispark would work. Take the cap, and drill 2 small hole opposite each other, then install/seal fittings in each hole being sure they do not interfere with moving parts or operation. Silicone the inside of the cap around the rim, and bolt it back onto the dizzy. Then, run 2 lengths of vacuum hose; one to the snorkel, preferrably on a bend where no water can possibly be present, even in rain, and make sure wherever you install the fitting it is AFTER the air filter. Then run the second hose to a port on the intake... the easiest thing would probably be to have a t-fitting on the adapater that the HVAC/Cruise/4X4 vacuum lines run to from the Jeep ball. This dizzy vent was just an idea... I am yet to see anyone do it. But I do know when GM installed vents on the opti, it lasted much longer and whenever sealed it was able to stand a lot stronger against water.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 01:19 PM
  #14  
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From: Ny
Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0ho
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that specific picture isnt tupper ware, its one of those dry boxes from the camping isle at walmart or dicks sporting goods, they work well, most of the time.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 03:04 PM
  #15  
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Year: 1987
Engine: Check
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One could modify a Pelican case.
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