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I am currently running 3" Zone lift w/ t-case drop and 31" Mickey MTZ's. I want to fit 33x12.50's and still flex really well. What would you guys recommend? Can I get away with running some ACOS up front and rear shackle relocation brackets to get alittle more lift? Any steering upgrades needed? And fender trimming a must? And can this all be done without a SYE and new driveshaft?
what are you planning on doing because as you sit with just some trimming you could clear 33's if you want them to work in the rocks you gotta do other upgrades...get some longer shocks, longer brakelines, bumpstop correctly, i would upgrade steering cause stock sucks, sye under 4.5" is a comfort thing i had a 4.5" xj with no sye and had no vibes some people lift 3" and claim you must have an sye personally i think they have other issues (ie u-joints but new driveshaft would mask that due to sye) you can go long arms or adjustable short arms with current height...shackle relocation brackets aid in flex and ride quality (can get no lift relocation brackets) i personally dont like spacers i would rather run a full spring
Earlier this year I upped the lift on my XJ from 3" to 4 1/2" using spacers in the front and a set of "Boomerang Shackles" in the rear gives a little more flex. This is a temporary deal will be going to a full 4 1/2" coil/leaf pack next spring when I will be doing a long arm kit.
Going the extra did require me to go with an SYE and shim instead of my TC drop kit and a new driveshaft. It was necessary also to replace the stock front control arms with Adj. U/LCA's I used HD ones and a new Adj. Dbl. Shear Track Bar and sold my other Std. Duty Adj. TB. The new Adj. U/LCA's were needed to adj. the front differential including the pinion angle on it.
New shocks, brake lines, at least a V8 GC tie rod upgrade, etc. You can look at my signature and see a lot of what I did most when I upgraded to this setup. I was running 33"'s at 3" of lift and can tell you that trimming "Is Required" for sure, even now at 4 1/2" with full flex my tires will rub some.
Thanks guys. That gives me a lot to go from. Now just gotta figure out where to where to start my next phase. I was trying to avoid cutting on her but after the last jeep show...(OC Jeep Week)...I think I am done with 31's and sitting on the sidelines. Thanks again forum is always a big help
Thanks guys. That gives me a lot to go from. Now just gotta figure out where to where to start my next phase. I was trying to avoid cutting on her but after the last jeep show...(OC Jeep Week)...I think I am done with 31's and sitting on the sidelines. Thanks again forum is always a big help
Even with the 31's some cutting will give you more flex if you have everything else worked out, shocks, brake lines and the like. This is all mine was cut at 3" for the 33's but I did have bump stops in use. This photo is at 4 1/2" though but same cutting for 3".
Even with the 31's some cutting will give you more flex if you have everything else worked out, shocks, brake lines and the like. This is all mine was cut at 3" for the 33's but I did have bump stops in use. This photo is at 4 1/2" though but same cutting for 3".
Cut your fenders...you just have to. Otherwise you need a stupid amount of lift to properly clear 33's and even then it won't look quite right. I too have the Zone 3" lift, but I have Bushwacker flat flares and here is how my rig sits now.
I did bumpstop the front with hockey pucks and it works great. Actually, my shocks are the only thing limiting my flex in the front now besides the rear. The rear, I need to bumpstop it yet. I don't have much flex back there which also limits me overall. I will likely lift it a little more, maybe to 4.5" but I'm thinking bumping it to 4 will be a nice option. For what you're trying to do, you're going to want (at least) adjustable lower control arms (if not long arms!), ideally a double-shear track bar setup, and shackle relocations in the rear which can net you an extra inch depending on what kit you go with.
Cut your fenders...you just have to. Otherwise you need a stupid amount of lift to properly clear 33's and even then it won't look quite right. I too have the Zone 3" lift, but I have Bushwacker flat flares and here is how my rig sits now.
I did bumpstop the front with hockey pucks and it works great. Actually, my shocks are the only thing limiting my flex in the front now besides the rear. The rear, I need to bumpstop it yet. I don't have much flex back there which also limits me overall. I will likely lift it a little more, maybe to 4.5" but I'm thinking bumping it to 4 will be a nice option. For what you're trying to do, you're going to want (at least) adjustable lower control arms (if not long arms!), ideally a double-shear track bar setup, and shackle relocations in the rear which can net you an extra inch depending on what kit you go with.
Are you running 33x12:50's? What hood vents are you running? Looks good!
I was thinking of getting the HD offroad no lift shackle relocation brkts for rear. Remove rear sway bar and either Bilstein 5100's or fox/BDS shocks all around ( not sure of length to order??)
Need more info on front steering set ups. Just not clear on the over/under or what would be better? She is still my daily driver. I have a JKS HD adj. track bar now but I am thinking of getting rid of it to replace with a new mount and bar combo. I noticed my mount brkt looks like hell and need to replace my front brake lines. Rear line is ext. Braided new.
Cut your fenders...you just have to. Otherwise you need a stupid amount of lift to properly clear 33's and even then it won't look quite right. I too have the Zone 3" lift, but I have Bushwacker flat flares and here is how my rig sits now.
I did bumpstop the front with hockey pucks and it works great. Actually, my shocks are the only thing limiting my flex in the front now besides the rear. The rear, I need to bumpstop it yet. I don't have much flex back there which also limits me overall. I will likely lift it a little more, maybe to 4.5" but I'm thinking bumping it to 4 will be a nice option. For what you're trying to do, you're going to want (at least) adjustable lower control arms (if not long arms!), ideally a double-shear track bar setup, and shackle relocations in the rear which can net you an extra inch depending on what kit you go with.
X2 on all of this.
I am right at 4" with long arms and 33's. Trim, bumpstop, and get all of your lines/shocks the right length and you'll be set.
for shocks you can either buy lift companies "advertised height shocks" or you can remove all your shocks and measure while flexed and ride height and etc which is the better option
Are you running 33x12:50's? What hood vents are you running? Looks good!
I was thinking of getting the HD offroad no lift shackle relocation brkts for rear. Remove rear sway bar and either Bilstein 5100's or fox/BDS shocks all around ( not sure of length to order??)
Need more info on front steering set ups. Just not clear on the over/under or what would be better? She is still my daily driver. I have a JKS HD adj. track bar now but I am thinking of getting rid of it to replace with a new mount and bar combo. I noticed my mount brkt looks like hell and need to replace my front brake lines. Rear line is ext. Braided new.
Yes, 33x12.50 Courser Mastercraft MXT. The hood vents are boat louvers from West Marine Supply, they were just under 20 bucks shipped. As for steering, I just threw a ZJ tie rod on there and called it good. I know several guys with 35's who wheel with it and never had a problem.
This is my daughters Jeep, used mostly mudding in the Florida Woods, It is running Goodyear MTR's 33x10.50x17 (the metric equiv) and it rubs just a little... but not bad. But when I put my 33x12.50x15 on I could not even back it out of the driveway with them on her Jeep...... She has a 3.5" Tuff Country Extreme Flex. In short it depends on your tires.