I have a 1998 Cherokee 4dr, 4.0, manual, LHD with 3” in the front and 2” in the back. I’ve been fighting with death wobble for the last 6 months. New parts are upper and lower control arms and bushings, YJ v8 drag link and tie rod and ends, drag link, wheel bearings, ball joints, axle u joints, steering damper, sway bar and links, and track bar. I’ve checked the mounts to the sway bar on the body and on the axle. Both mounts were ovaled out so I welded them up and re-drilled them to the proper size. I still have death wobble some how. So I have 2 questions. Is it possible to put a RHD track bar on, with my current track bar to have 2 track bars to keep the axle from moving laterally? I know it would take some fabrication to figure out clearances, but would it affect performance? I don’t off-road very often and it mainly sees highway miles so it’s alright if I can’t climb boulders. My second question is should I get adjustable lower control arms for 3”? Many people say stock control arms are fine up to 3”, but I feel like it could throw the castor angle off enough to cause the wobble. Thanks for any input and sorry for being long winded. I love my jeep and I really would like to fix it instead of selling it, but I’m at my wits end.

 

You cant run opossing track bars

Welk you could but it would ride like you have sinder blocks for springs. Im not even sure the suswould cycle.

Go at the wobble through prosses of elimination.

Track bar, steering, tie rod ends, tires balanced.,

If it has 200k on it and parts of of unknown shape you can just go ahead and swap it all for new parts.

Adding a set of castor shims could drastically change the wobble or eliminate it. My theory.

Check frame where steering box bolts on for cracks.

The list of things that i have known to be horribly sloppy sloppy wore out but not cause death wobble. Ball joints and control arm bushings or unit bearings. Also i dont think ive seen lack of positive castor cause death wobble. But i know the more positive the more castor itself will fight the wobble

i reread and you have all new parts. id go through and check all tie rod end nuts every and make sure everything that has been replaced is still snug and happy. Even lug nuts.

Eliminate human error then go from there.

Pictures would also help. It coukd have a dropped pitman and not a dropped track bar bracket to mach.

 

Evan is right, it would ride like it is welded to the frame with two track bars. Now, to figure out your death wobble. Since you have modified it, post up a pic showing the track bar, drag link and tie rod. Also, have someone saw the steering wheel back and forth while you look at all the joints. If any of them are loose, they need to be fixed

 

“You cant run opossing track bars

Welk you could but it would ride like you have sinder blocks for springs.”

It worked in my mind, but now I see what you are saying, they would be fighting each other.


“Adding a set of castor shims could drastically change the wobble or eliminate it. My theory.”

haven’t thought about the castor shims I’ll have to look into that.

“Check frame where steering box bolts on for cracks”

haven’t thought of this one either, thanks for the suggestions

 

I installed some 6.5mm thick plates to push my axle forward. They fit but it was tight.

 

with 3 inches of lift you should have an adjustable trac bar and adjustable or extended lower control arms..if these items are still stock length, then your axle is improperly rotated and already shifted over