Why would you need dual wastegates? Hopefully if you're building your own setup you'd use a external setup so im kinda confused why internal gates would have even come up. Maybe cause someone mentioned using a 16... but even then its so easy to con err to external.

Xj's have plenty of room if you move the battery and a couple other things around. And as stated before if you can't figure out how to get one to fit then the fuel management problems that you'll run into will really stump you.

To jump in on the 2.3 conversation...... those things rock! I had a Merkur xr4ti stock turbo at 25lbs, it was a blast! My buddy is into them big time. He has a notch with a holset on it and a turbo GT ( yes they made the gt in a 4cyl turbo) with a longrod motor and a gt 45 turbo I think. Both are bad ***.

 

Ouuchh bet that was fun...

That motor sounds like it is pretty beastly though.

 

I think your possibly mixing my posts and another users posts.

I suggested an external gate, and a large one at that. Someone else suggested twin gates, and yet another someone else suggested TTs. I did, however, suggest a 16g would be too small of a turbo, the wastegate being one of the bigger issues with the thing.

You could indeed put the turbo on the passenger side. I never said it was impossible.

I did however suggest it wouldn't be easy or cheap. And that's what the discussion was.

 

a very good one at that; they're sequential.

I love these threads when they come up. Not speaking about anyone directly but most often you get one maybe two guys who really have the knowledge base to speak and all these others spitting out information.

There really is no point to "discussing" the idea. If you want to do it, do it. You'll never find XJ specific information. As DualSportDad was saying, you just install them where they fit (moving things when you have to), plumb them to where they need to go and try avoiding the issues that all FI systems tend to have.

I will also say the work is worth it. Having a boosted engine is hilarious fun but unless you really want to go fast in an XJ, just re-gear it.

Let's let another turbo discussion thread roll into the archives and the OP should ***** or get off the pot.

 

I cant wait to do my forced induction an create a write-up so threads like this never will come up, even though they still prolly will....

 

doooo ittttt!

its pretty simple.. i would totally do it if i had the funds

 

me and u are the only people on earth that had xr4tis lol i turned mine up to 21 lbs... such a fun little ungly car

 

I say you should take everyones advice with a grain of salt then do your own research so that you better understand what ur getting into (unless u already do) then have at it if you think you can do it. Piecing together a turbo kit can range from 800 to 3000 it all depends on deals and parts availability in the sizes you want. just my .02 not every turboed vehicle I've seen has a intercooler.

 

http://www.avengersuperchargers.com/

Something some of you might find interesting. I am considering adding one of these soon.

 

I'm in the proses of turboing my 4.0 and it is decently as much work as they say it is
I spent months looking at how it all works and I've read my forums and books about turbos

I have 2 bar map with a 4bt cummins turbo
(3.9L) matches the motor well but is still slow
With 5.0 mustang 150ish injectors
If you can do loads of fab work and don't have a real understanding of motors
Or re gearing for that matter then stay out of it is not your project

 

50lbs sorry

 

almost anyone that can build front bumpers or put on suspension can fab up a turbo on a xj with a little $ and time. Its the tuning that is whats going to be the hard part. Just like ANY car you boost. If you really want to put a turbo on, get the right one, learn about compressor maps, size your turbo accordingly, and get something that can control fuel and spark. Its not how much boost you run, its how much power you make thats going to depend on how long the motor lasts, stock or not...i've seen plenty of people grenade forged interal motors with a bad tune. Then, I have a few buddies running boosted ls1 and 6.0 motors out of the junkyard, one of them has been on 11 low and 15hi boost for three years with a s475 and its drag raced and street driven all the time.

I dont wana hear theres no room in a xj, I wish the camaros and trans ams and vettes I work on all the time had so much room. If you can fit 35s on a xj you can make a turbo fit haha

too bad the TA didnt have xj underhood room

 

Agree.

Wow, just read through this whole thing. Very funny. It's pretty funny how 90% of the people think building a turbo setup is some impossible feat that can only be accomplished by purchasing a kit. You can read through and immediately see the people that have done it before, and are capable, but I will stay out of that pissing match. I will admit, the first time you ever do it will be a little overwhelming, and might even be too much for some people. But once you figure it out, it's like wow, I got that worked up over that? Some materials, half a brain, and some welding skills and it's a piece of cake, and a lot of fun to see what you can come up with. Me and a friend have built 3 of them now (and 3 blower cars), Mustangs of course, everything from stock short block 500rwhp cars to an R331 with a billet 106mm, which ran an 1/8 mile good for 8.80s on only 15lbs before we took it apart, it was driven everywhere on the street, and it was built by 2 drunk 22 year olds in a garage. Yea, the turbo was way too big but it's what we had laying around for an outlaw 10.5 build. It was just for fun but after 2 pairs of slicks in one summer, a rear end, 3 converters, a turbo 400 broken in 3 pieces and some serious structural damage to the car it got too expensive. I know everyone keeps arguing it's a Mustang not a Jeep, but I assure you, the concept is no different. We started with a pair of header flanges, a header tubing kit from Summit and a 30 pack. Knowing how to tig weld is a big plus when building the header(s) but it CAN be done with a mig. I'd move the battery to the back, get rid of the a/c compressor and move the alternator up to give you more room for plumbing, and pull the airbox and all the **** you won't need. I'd use just about any existing header and rework it. Just from looking under my hood quick I painted a really quick diagram of what I would probably do. Black box is approximately where the motor mount is, cut at the red line and route the two pipes forward around the motor mount (green line), merge them, then run one across under the front of the oil pan, up to the turbo on the passenger side. Obviously using some joints for disassembly and maybe a piece of flex pipe under the oil pan. Where the battery was is a cool spot, and you can get air to the turbo. I'd mount the turbo in a way that I could fit a pretty large filter on it. I've seen filters that we thought were plenty big completely choke the turbo and we couldn't figure out why it wouldn't make boost. Pulled the filter off and it ran like a raped ape. Downpipe would exit down the right side under the starter. Personally I wouldn't even consider putting an exhaust on it, a turbo is enough muffler, and turbos HATE backpressure. You could probably also work it to mount the turbo where the airbox would go, but it looked like it would require more sharp bends than I like. Here's my high tech drawing.



I'm sorry, but that boostwerks manifold is a complete joke and probably the worst place I have ever seen to locate a turbo. Under the manifold? With the cold side right next to the header tubing? I don't think there is a hotter place in the entire engine bay.
There's plenty of room in front of the radiator for an intercooler. If you need a/c I guess you're going to have to get a lot more creative and complicated.
That's all the very simple part. That's about a weekend's work. Then have fun with the fuel system and tuning Mass air cars are cake, but I wouldn't even attempt tuning one of these without a stand alone. Can probably be done, but I'd rather just do it right.


And agree. People think and talk about "boost" way too much. I don't know how many times I've heard low boost, low boost, or 6-8 lbs. You make the boost it takes to make the power you want. There's 2 main things that can hurt the motor bad, detonation, and too much power. Sure, boost can result in both of these, that's why tune is so important. I'd pull the head and install some good head studs. Maybe some good rod bolts to give the stock rotating assembly the best chance. I don't like to use really good head gaskets, I think of head gaskets as a fuse, especially when you're tuning. I'd much rather change a head gasket than a motor. The tune is extremely important. You're going to blow **** up if it's not tuned right. Detonation will kill a cast motor so fast. You want your a/f at wot around 11.5:1, much richer than naturally aspirated. I'm not sure what the limit of the stock rotating assembly or block is, there's not many of them making big power.


Now, with allll that being said. I would never even consider putting a turbo on an XJ haha. Maybe if I had the money to play with just to prove how nicely it can be done, but it doesn't make sense for offroading to me. For a turbo to spool hard and fast, and work really well, you have to load it. Just for example, you see n/a or supercharged cars all the time with 3.73-4.30 gears and a stick. Most turbo setups you'll see 3.27s-3.55s and an automatic. It's just not practical in a wheelin rig in my opinion. If you have a 5spd Jeep with 4.56s and a turbo you're going to be shifting your *** off but the turbo isn't going to be doing much. You want to build the boost hard and fast and stay in the boost. I'd spend half the money and swap in an efi small block that's dead reliable, requires no tuning, is 100lbs lighter, and makes more power.

 

 

Nuff said. Thanks Clayton.