that too but that becomes a whole thing in its own, i priced throwing a small block chevy in since i have a bunch laying around, after buying mounts, adapters, getting all the gauges to work and meeting emissions, it wasnt worth it to me

 

Gears aren't cheap either. There are 2 diffs that need to be changed. Its not exactly a 2 bolt and some RTV kind of job.

Either way its not a walk in the park.

 

When i look at gears i dont account for labor cost since i can do it myself, i guess if you account for that it can be very pricey. I think moral of the story is, you got to pay to play

 

One could also make the bracketry and things needed themselves, which would cut down the cost of a motor swap. Especially if you already have the motor just lying around like you said.

Lots invloved, moral of the story neither route is cheap. Do the research, figure out whats best for your needs.

 

Definitely easier than adding forced induction though. Lol


I hear you on the small block note. Have motors at my disposal but the rest of the drive train is what would put it out of my budget. Plus I really do like the I6

 

I agree, forced induction isn't easy either, but it really depends on ability and situation.

I have a couple good tirbos sitting around. Couple of them are kinda small, but I'm pretty sure a 50 trim would work. Add a GM 3 bar map, a few other supporting goodies, and all that is left is fab work.

But not everyone has a 50 trim sitting in their garage. Just as not everyone has a few SBs laying around, or could do gears themselves.

 

I know this might cause somewhat of an argument but I've been working on all types of cars for most of my life. The general observation is when you add HP (regardless of device) your MPG goes down no matter what the manufactures says or what it theoretically should be.

Example:
You might get better MPG in a certain range. i.e. 40-60mph. But city acceleration and freeway speed would be much worse. Resulting in overall worse millage.

 

I will agree with that, even a simple cold air intake. Your adding air so you need to add more fuel or risk running lean and i would rather make 4 less hp and have a safe engine rather than risk buring it up because its too lean

 

I think that's more than little simplified lol.

Maybe I just get lost in all the tech terms when reading peoples turbo builds (only read like 2 actual builds one super one turbo the rest was just discussion)

It just seems like there was a lot more to the fuel management. Something like since there's no way to tell the PCM that its got boost you need some kind of piggy backed PCM to make the compensate for it fuel wise. Plus fuel delivery (regulator), bigger injectors and possibly 7th injector, obviously the exhaust manifold, waste gate?

All that for minimal effect.

Then again I'm also don't know more than what I've retained by reading through builds/discussions. Lol

 

Maybe for others that is true, but not for me. The fuel and timing was nearly the easiest part.


Motor Swaps are Not OBD/Smog legal. Getting the A/C, heater, gauges, cooling, exhaust, adapters, etc is the hard part.

Add in axles, lockers, labor and you are near $2000 per axle. My '98 with 4.56 gears gets worse MPG and less 'acceleration' than our '98 with the Sprintex Supercharger.

Sprintex Supercharger is bolt on in one day, two if you take your time.

Not True. On our recent trip to Rausch creek, the S/C '98 got 1-2mpg more than our 4.58 geared '98.

 

Typically as long as you stay otuta boost you'll see better mileage.


And I thought FrankZs 5.3 swap was emissions legal. I could be wrong, tho.

 

Got a build thread for that turbo? What exactly did you do for fuel and timing? Any specs on boost and power gains? Milage?


I've read a sprintex supercharger install, seemed far from bolt on. I remember a lot of fuss over the timing, maybe I'm wrong. Pretty sure it was on naxja.

The most bolt on one I've read about was in JP magazine.com and they didn't mention squat about the PCM, so I'm inclined to think there was more to it than just bolting on parts. I think that kit was for a TJ.

I'm not saying anyone's wrong, its just always intrigued me. Yet every time I read about forced induction it seems too expensive and complicated for the gains. Especially compared to engine swaps.

Smog, emission, etc. That changes the way to look at it. I just don't have those restrictions here.

 

And what is the gearing of higher millage vehicle? What is S/C?

 

505 kits are all for wranglers.

 

Sc equals supercharger I think