transfer case linkage
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l H.O.
transfer case linkage
Does anyone know of any tricks or parts to fix t. case linkage being bound up due to a t. case drop?
#3
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Year: 2000
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Engine: Inline 6
Not to thread jack, but in that write-up he did end up using the TJ shift arm, correct? He just welded up the hole, and redrilled it closer?
#4
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Year: 1989
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0L I6
@shooter, yes. Oonce i get my stuff bolted together thats the route ill be going but i plan to stick with the stock XJ shifter arm as i dont like how he had to hack the housing up, and ill be using a YJ shifter piece at the tcase end as thats what the tcase came from.
Some people ive talked to said this didnt work other said it did, either way i think its going to involve playing with it a bit to make it work with your application.
to OP just adjust it if you dont feel like going custom, keep in mind bad motor mounts and trans mount will cause linkage to bind as well.
Some people ive talked to said this didnt work other said it did, either way i think its going to involve playing with it a bit to make it work with your application.
to OP just adjust it if you dont feel like going custom, keep in mind bad motor mounts and trans mount will cause linkage to bind as well.
#5
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Year: 2000
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@shooter, yes. Oonce i get my stuff bolted together thats the route ill be going but i plan to stick with the stock XJ shifter arm as i dont like how he had to hack the housing up, and ill be using a YJ shifter piece at the tcase end as thats what the tcase came from.
Some people ive talked to said this didnt work other said it did, either way i think its going to involve playing with it a bit to make it work with your application.
to OP just adjust it if you dont feel like going custom, keep in mind bad motor mounts and trans mount will cause linkage to bind as well.
Some people ive talked to said this didnt work other said it did, either way i think its going to involve playing with it a bit to make it work with your application.
to OP just adjust it if you dont feel like going custom, keep in mind bad motor mounts and trans mount will cause linkage to bind as well.
There's to many like terms in this; It's confusing me. When you finish yours (if its in the near future) could you possible share lots of pics?
#7
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Year: 1989
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yea ill be sure to post pics, likely in my conversion thread cause like i said ive talked to those who say it works and those who say it doesnt yet aside from BSFab no one has posted up much about this setup....hopefully its all together within the month, kinda the downside to the jeep no longer being DD im not as motivated to get it done especially when its freezing outside.
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#8
i did something similar to bsfab. used 7/16 heims and cut the head off a fully threaded grade 8 bolt. i used the stock xj shift arm and notched it and bent it then rewelded it so it sat almost touching the case in 2wd. i also had to lengthen the lever on the lever attatched to the handle a bit. i just welded a small tab with a 7/16" hole to it and made it about 3/4" longer. works mint. makes dropping the tranny and t case easier and feels a lot more solid.
#10
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l H.O.
Originally Posted by Demolition_x
Is it binding up not allowing full travel or is it just not moving enough to allow engagement?
#11
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Year: 1996
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I ended up unbolting the bracket from the body, and moving it down an inch and drilled new holes, worked mint.
#12
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x2. If you haven't done anything else other than the TC drop, then get the bracket and it should un-bind. The same thing happened to me. After the lowering bracket that came with it (Skyjacker I think) no problems. I still have it in the garage if you don't have one and are interested. I installed my SYE and CV shaft a few weeks ago and got rid of the TC drop.
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