Transfer Case
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Recently installed a RE 3.5 Super flex lift, surprise, surprise, have driveline vibes. Figured I would (2001). 4.0, AW4, NP231. New full leafs. When I started I was about 17.5 front and 17.0 rear (center of axle to fender flare). Now at 22.0 front and 23.0 rear (no settling yet, not much driving other than around the block). So I netted about 4.5 front and 6 in the back (from a 3.5 kit).
I have read most of the applicable threads on here, and watched the Youtube video of the SYE install a couple times.
Bought a RR SYE kit, getting ready to install it. Removed the front DS, wondering about pulling the xfer case vs leaving it installed. Has anyone done the SYE with the transfer case installed, or is it easier to just pull it? Looks like most of the work will be removing the case; the SYE install looks pretty straight forward.
How heavy is the case when it is removed? The book recommends a special transmission jack. Not opposed to buying new tools, but if I don't need it then I would rather save the cash. Haven't bought another front DS yet, watching Craigslist. Figured I would use mine to get mobile again, and measure to see what I need. I could always buy a Tom Woods if necessary.
Thanks for any advice you can provide.
Andy
I have read most of the applicable threads on here, and watched the Youtube video of the SYE install a couple times.
Bought a RR SYE kit, getting ready to install it. Removed the front DS, wondering about pulling the xfer case vs leaving it installed. Has anyone done the SYE with the transfer case installed, or is it easier to just pull it? Looks like most of the work will be removing the case; the SYE install looks pretty straight forward.
How heavy is the case when it is removed? The book recommends a special transmission jack. Not opposed to buying new tools, but if I don't need it then I would rather save the cash. Haven't bought another front DS yet, watching Craigslist. Figured I would use mine to get mobile again, and measure to see what I need. I could always buy a Tom Woods if necessary.
Thanks for any advice you can provide.
Andy
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Battle Creek, Michigan
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I removed the TC b/c I hate working on my back. I removed the cross member and lowered the trans and TC down to easily get to the TC bolts. Then me and buddy removed it. I think it's about 80-100 lbs
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You can fo it while in the rig but removing it is defintitely what I prefer. It doesnt take much longer at all. a 9/16" ratcheting wrench and a 9/16" socket with a swivel and 6" extension makes those t case bolts come off real quick.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Northern CA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I just did mine a few days ago. Removing the tcase was the PITA part. One if the nuts is in a pretty "fun" location. But I was able to remove and install without a jack. It is not too heavy, maybe 80lbs?
Last edited by Dr. Doom; Mar 3, 2013 at 06:00 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,601
Likes: 1
From: Kalamazoo, MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L with throttle body spacer and cold air intake, bored throttle body, #784 injector upgrade
two people, two floor jacks. I never tried to do one while it was in the jeep but getting the transfer case out from underneath was a hell of a lot easier to do with two people and two floor jacks and the proper tools. The last one that i pulled out took me around four hours but it was a nightmare because it had been abused and the owner was "helping" me and my buddy.
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Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I always found it harder to reinsall the t case while trying to balance it on a floor jack and tilt it up at that right angle. Easier to muscle it up there. I just put one floor jack under the trans pan with a 2x4 to distribute load, then pull the crossmember, let the jack down as far as you can without tweaking the motor mounts, drain the t case fluid, then pull the t case. Of course there is other stuff like drivelines and t case linkages, ect.
Oh hey, and if you have trouble figuring out how the pivot points and linkages go back together; just upgrade it to our kit and it will be alot more simplified.
Oh hey, and if you have trouble figuring out how the pivot points and linkages go back together; just upgrade it to our kit and it will be alot more simplified.
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: British Columbia, CANADA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Obviously it's less awkward to gut the TC on a bench but most of the threads I read held complaints about getting at a couple of the tranny/tc bolts at the top.
I've done the SYE 2-1/2 times now (once to install it, once to remove it because the XJ got written off and once again to install it in the new one...and I re-assembled the tc in the written off XJ with the internals from the new one so I could still move the jeep in and out of the driveway) and I've only ever done the work with the TC still installed. I've never bothered to time it but at this point I could probably whip an install off in about 40 minutes or so.
Not a big deal. Just make sure you understand each step of the instructions and take your time.
The make it or break it part of the install is having a GOOD set of retaining ring pliers. Cheap crappy ones will break at the tips leaving you with a 1/2 completed install. Don't ask me how I know.
I've done the SYE 2-1/2 times now (once to install it, once to remove it because the XJ got written off and once again to install it in the new one...and I re-assembled the tc in the written off XJ with the internals from the new one so I could still move the jeep in and out of the driveway) and I've only ever done the work with the TC still installed. I've never bothered to time it but at this point I could probably whip an install off in about 40 minutes or so.
Not a big deal. Just make sure you understand each step of the instructions and take your time.
The make it or break it part of the install is having a GOOD set of retaining ring pliers. Cheap crappy ones will break at the tips leaving you with a 1/2 completed install. Don't ask me how I know.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 365
Likes: 1
From: Northern Michigan
Year: 2000 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.8L Stroker
there are a couple bolts that are a real peach to get out. I ended up taking a cheap harbor freight wrench, cutting it down to about 3" long and that made things go a lot faster.
If you lay on your back underneath the tcase once it is unbolted, and just slide it out and lower it down to your chest, its super easy. It is maybe 50 lbs. I installed it the same way. Crawled under the vehicle, rolled the tcase onto my chest. Bench pressed that bad boy up and slid it on to the shaft and the bolts into the holes. I probably would not attempt one in the vehicle. I just think its easier to check everything out and make sure all is good to go with it on the work bench. To each his own!
If you lay on your back underneath the tcase once it is unbolted, and just slide it out and lower it down to your chest, its super easy. It is maybe 50 lbs. I installed it the same way. Crawled under the vehicle, rolled the tcase onto my chest. Bench pressed that bad boy up and slid it on to the shaft and the bolts into the holes. I probably would not attempt one in the vehicle. I just think its easier to check everything out and make sure all is good to go with it on the work bench. To each his own!
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