I highly doubt it. Possibly on DC but definitely not on AC.

Let me re-phrase: There isn't a 110 WIRE machine on the planet that will make a decent weld at 90 amps from a 110 outlet. If anyone thinks they can prove otherwise, grab some 1/2 plate and lay a NICE weld at max output. Good luck.

To clarify, flux core is not a weaker weld, unless you fail to penetrate the parent metals, which does happen a lot. In many heavy industrial applications they use flux WITH gas and run insane amperages welding heavy equipment parts for example. However, as it pertains to the topic at hand, flux is just generally gonna suck more than a 220 machine with solid wire and gas. BUT, for the Jeeper on a budget (aren't we all?) you can do a bunch of stuff with a rinky dink welder and have some sort of success.

Ok this is totally opinion based but what would u guys use (flux core, wire, etc.)(tig mig arc etc.)(20 amps 30 amps 40 amps etc) in a perfect world to weld any of the following:

-Roof rack
-bumper
-1/4" skid plates for the undercarriage
-long control arms

Keep in mind I've never touched a welder, but to give u an example:
For a roof rack a 110 flux core arc welder with a max of 30 amps could easily pull it off

The ones I listed are wire machines. And the rating listed were for 110 or 115 or 120 respectively. For practical instances its the same. The wire also doesn't care if its getting the power from a big ole' 220 machine or a little rinky dink 110 machine. 90 amps is 90 amps. The difference in between the two is going to come in duty cycle.

If you are referring to a 110v only machine you are right about single passing some 1/2" its not going to do it. Its not meant to do it. There is no point in doing it. And it sure as heck is not the right way to do it. There really is not enough heat at 90 amps to weld 1/2". Doing a root weld and two welds over on 1/4" is really the upper limits. 1/8" is really about all I would single pass with a little 90 amp machine.

BTW my electric company says I have 110v / 220v service, when a multi-meter is inserted at line voltage I get 122v on single line and 244v on twin line.



For a roof rack you could use pretty much anything that sparks. A big ole 220 stick welder might not go low enough to avoid burn through but small will do just fine.

A bumper really depends on thickness of steel you are going to use, for thinner cosmetic only bumpers a little 110v machine will do just fine. For thicker bumpers a larger machine will be better suited. That would be a crap ton of seams to multi-pass.

1/4" plate I would go real close to 200 amps and weld away. I think 1/4" is a little much for skid plates but to each is their own.

Control arms could be done with a small machine if you are ok doing multi-pass welds. Again a larger machine is going to be easier and be able to single pass it which leave less room for error in my opinion.

I would do all of them with stick (SMAW) only because that is what I have at my disposal and what I prefer to weld with. My next choice would be MIG with solid wire and gas (only becuase of the lack of splatter compared to flux). Then flux cored. Then TIG, if I was more proficient in the process I would say TIG for all of them.

I use fluxcore on all my junk, its a little messy but its much easier than running back in forth to fill up my tanks

Wrong...see below

You are correct,200 amps at 20% duty cycle.

all day long way refering the abilty to not blow a breaker

But thats not what we are talking about here are we.....this was purley about the abilty to produce 200 amps out of a 40 amp breaker..duty cycle aside...its called an inverter..all modern welders use them...otherwise when is the last time you have seen a 300+ amp breaker in a box..lol. that being said desert dog you constantly feel the need to flex your welding knowledge and skill, and are constaly crapping out this thread..let it be, if you feel the need to pat yourself on the back ...go ahead..we'll will all golf clap for ya.

Gas shielded 220 MIG welder. There is a reason why pretty much all offroad fab shops use them 90% of the time.

If i'm not mistaken, this thread is for people looking to learn more about welding. I find it hilarious how threatened some people get when I simply drop some knowledge on the conversation. Apparently knowing something about welding makes me an arrogant ***. So be it. I'm a professional welder and I know a lot about it, so when I contribute to the effort, maybe you shouldn't get all up in a tizzy and just try to learn something.

200 amps on 1/4? that's crazy

.035 ER70S solid wire is perfect for about anything in a MIG welder with gas shielding. You could run .045 if you were welding some thick stuff. Here's a handy tip: make sure the drive rollers are the same size as the wire you run! .045 rollers won't push .035 wire very well...

If that's crazy then what would u recommend?

Also I would prefer to stay away from MIG as I live in an appartment and already have to keep my welder in my jeep... lol

I don't weld with MIG, I weld with SMAW and I am going to do it with single pass hence the higher amperage than others may use.

Wow this threads on page 12, started out pretty good, friendly exchange of perspectives for page one and two.
Then a pissing match seems to have begun.
Must be full of **** and vinegar to keep at it for twelve pages.
Seems the intent of the thread was to share some tips.
Here is a tip that works for me:
Prior to welding aluminum, I brush the surfaces with a stainless wire brush, seems to remove the oxide much better that a common carbon steel brush, my puddles are cleaner and flow better as there seems to be less oxide and impurities contamination. The stainless brush is only couple bucks more. Keep it with my weld gear and don't use it for general rough or grimmy cleanup, pre weld alum application only.
here is another tip:
When I mig or tig weld I insure my hand holding the torch is braced and stable. There is no shoot (weld) from the hip cowboy, or free hand artistic painting method here. The hand holding the torch must be stable and in control. Find a position that braces the hand or a surface to rest your arm upon to maintain control of the torch tip while welding. This is last step of preparation prior to pulling the trigger and/or striking your arc.
A third tip is:
Provide yourself a view of what you are welding. Get in position. If you can't see where you are welding how will you control your arc, angle, positon, etc. Make sure you can see your weld.
These are basic and often thought to be taken for granted. I've found these are often a few steps that really help a new welder gain control of their work and when they make a few good welds, confidence improves and the welds can improve also. Just a few basic things.
I'll let the rest of the experienced welders continue now with their in-depth debates and higher degree of weld knowledge discussions.
No one's perfect; having gotten my shorts in a knot and shot my mouth off in the past, and probably will again in the future; a little temperance is required by some of you guys. I can see that you all have knowledge to offer, it is not a competition. Your mama's would wash your keyboards out with soap if they read your posts.
Flame on!

Could always build an onboard welder.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles2/tech/on-boardwelder