rear is a d44 cherokee tow pkg, id rather not go with stock axles(plan on building them up ) and 34" o 35" tires is what im aiming for anyways, im taking it that where i was originaly going remains the best route for me. ya iv been looking into older jeep and ford axles, but for way down the road in the future.

thanks for the info guys

 

I recently finished my axle upgrades and consider them a great balance between strength and $$

Reused the hp Dana 30, I'm running 30 spline axles with Ox Locker and tube seals. I welded the tubes, reclocked the knuckles and welded braces to them. I also added LCA skids and trussed the axle. Here's pics before paint.





The Rear axle is an explorer 8.8 with stock shafts and a Detroit. It has the tubes welded, is trussed and runs a Aluminum TA diff cover. Gearing is 4.88 with 35" tires. I've taken it out and ran it pretty hard on some trails with no issues.

 

where's that girdle cover from? Make me some trusses - I love the dimple die look!

 

never mind I'm retarded

 

What's this thread for?

Show and tell?



Wagoneer Dana 44 with a Detroit, Trussed, chromo shafts, Super joints, Warn lock outs, 5 lug conversion, 4.56.

Yay.

 

[QUOTE=troy5118;2040567]I recently finished my axle upgrades and consider them a great balance between strength and $$

Reused the hp Dana 30, I'm running 30 spline axles with Ox Locker and tube seals. I welded the tubes, reclocked the knuckles and welded braces to them. I also added LCA skids and trussed the axle. Here's pics before paint.


The Rear axle is an explorer 8.8 with stock shafts and a Detroit. It has the tubes welded, is trussed and runs a Aluminum TA diff cover. Gearing is 4.88 with 35" tires. I've taken it out and ran it pretty hard on some trails with no issues.
[QUOTE=troy5118;2040567]

ya this is similar to where i plan to go with mine (still figuring out truss designe) but ya those look great !!

 

Anybody ever dealt with a Dynatrac HP D44 for the front?

I was think about one of these, because after building the front D30 up its not that much more to get a D44 up front... kinda

Also anybody ever ran RCV CV axle shaft conversions? Looks pretty sweet and they are lifetime guaranteed (http://www.rcvperformance.com/)

 

both of those cost a LOT of money. If you have the cash, they're very good options, but most likely overkill for the typical wheeler

 

Yeah, but a man can dream.

I got quoted at $3500 without shipping for D44HP with standard shafts, reusing of the outer knuckles brakes and such, and an Eaton E-locker.

Figured it would cost me approx 2.2k after parts and labor to build a HP D30 with the same locker covers etc.

 

The last one I built for a customer was in the $2800 range.

 

D44 or D30? If its the 44 I may have found a new supplier for my wish list.

If it is a 44 wondering what type of housing you have used. G2 axle and gear only offers LP and they are stock Rubicon housings.

 

Ford D44 HP housings only, narrowed to Grand Waggy width.

Sorry, but I don't ship 'em. It drives the price through the roof.

 

I did Waggy's as I have never narrowed axles, or done a full swap like this before. It made it nice and simple... but If i where to do it again I would narrow a F250 housing and run a narrowed D60/shaved C&C 14BFF rear just for the overkill factor lol

I had a Waggy D44 front, 4.56 gears (spicer factory Chevy gears) with chevy flat tops knuckles, a lock right locker and stock shafts with mile marker hubs. (no breaks/issues so far with 35's) Could only find this blurry pic lol


The rear I have a 89 waggy D44, trussed with IRO truss, THICK usa standard 4.56's(stock carrier). with a Spartan Locker and stock shafts. Still has drums for easy E-brake (required in UT) but haven't felt the need for disk yet... also no issues/breaks. (pic before it was all done and painted)


Alloy shafts are next on the list... possibly 33 spline rears with a Detroit.

 

as long as i understand correctly if you narrow the housing you have to do the shafts also. doesn't that cause an issue if you do break a shaft cause their won't be a easy fix you'd have to buy a new shaft and narrow it again. or is their an easier way? that's why my plan has been to stay away from narrowing any type of axle.

 

Yes and no

You do have to get a shorter shaft/s. Narrowing or cutting new splines into a stock shaft is a bad idea as the new cut splines are not near as strong as the stock ones (from what I have heard/read) Most opt for a alloy shaft which is stronger then stock and is made to the "custom" length. so breaking is not something most would worry about.

Or like Serious' setup, if you narrow the F250 axle to waggy width, you can run stock waggy shafts, Or alloy waggy shafts. making shaft selection/ordering very easy as its a pre-made setup and more then one company carries them. which is the Ideal setup to choose for a narrowed D44.