I would do this, truss the 8.8 and weld the tubes into the diff.

no measuring or guessing, weld on and bolt in a little pricey, but for the 100$ extra its worth having the truss. unless you can build it all yourself.

http://www.artecindustries.com/ZJ-88...-98_p_280.html

 

Hi need some help have a couple Q's, I have a 95 xj 5 speed with 231 j T-case and a dana 30 front axle and dana 44 rear 6.5 lift the guy I bought it from didnt know much about it so trying to still figure it out not sure what gearing it has he said it was geared for 35s but it has 33s and feels maxed out at about 2500 rpm doing about 60 cruises better at about 2200 at 55 mph? and when I drive im getting allot of vibration around 50 to 60 and down a grade at 55-60 put it in neutral to just coast it slows down lots of drag wont just coast down the hill so I pulled the front drive shaft...that made a world of diffence very little vibes and drives allot smoother and coast free also when I put it in 4 low on the dash it says part time is that front axle always engaged? any help be appreciated ? Thanks

 

Talk to me about this. Are the ABS shafts that much better? Why, the tone ring casting on the outer?

760 axle joints should be a top on the to do list if you're going to keep your D30 as-is.

Some folks say this is an expensive hobby, and it can be very expensive. It can also be pretty dang economical if you wheel within your budget. Meaning, if I choose to beat on my rig, I get to wheel it less. And it's a pain the *** to get home if I bust it.

The 8.8 rear swap is probably the best option if you want simple, same-size-axle strength. If you can't weld or don't know someone nearby who can (and will), then you're heading for trouble. Either take, or learn to weld, broken stuff gets expensive if you can't fix it. Duh.

Besides, if you're serious enough to want to swap your rear axle, you're probably already considering or have done mods like moving shock mounts, moving spring perches, etc. An 8.8 gives you a clean slate to do all that at once.

 

No difference between ABS and Non-ABS shafts.

The non-abs shafts have a dust shield instead of a tone-ring. Both of those items are interchangeable and have no effect on axle strength.

 

Early xjs without abs had 260 shafts and abs equipped ones had 297 shafts

 

Sorry, Should have clarified that there is no difference between ABS and Non-ABS that use the 297 joints.

The earlier non-abs shafts do in fact use the smaller 267 joints and were not used for ABS applications.

 

as usual my 97 xj limted 2.5 turbo diesel has developed the noisy back axle, time tochange it, or change the diff, Now Im no mechanic , so whats the best way to do it or what axle can i drop in, Im in UK so we get the VM deisel engine here, its a reliable unit and has been rebuilt so am not in the mind of scapping the beast just because the axle whines

 

Thanks for the clarification on the axles guys.

Kenthorseman, usually the noice from the rear is a pinion bearing (sometimes a carrier bearing, but 90% of the time a pinion bearing) It's an easy, relatively cheap fix. That is, unless you're just wanting to swap the axle anyway!

 

I was hoping that it was the bearings as I noticed yesterday when the wife was driving it to her horse feild , as she pulled away the wheel seemed to flex a bit, will have to try and find some bearings then, so next question is where do I get them

 

I guess Ill add mine.

My front axle is a D60 from a 95 F350. (which is the widest SRW at 69.25" WMS)
Everything was cut off. Ballistic coil mounts with all other bracketry being from Ruffstuff.



Im cheap, and I have locking hubs so I welded the front carrier.



Installed Yukon 5.13 gears. Thick cut for the front to use the stock 4.10 carrier.

Rear is a D70HD from a late 70's F350. Little narrower at I believe 66" or 66.5"

Also with yukon 5.13's. Detroit locker. Detroit works awesome, you never even know its there but if your on the throttle, its locked.
Spring perches are ruffstuff, redrilled to move it back. 2.5".
Great axle, huge wheel bearings, and I love full float axles. Especially when they are 1.5" 35 splines.

 

73 Hp44
reid Chevy knukles
waggy outers
longfield inner spindle bushing
solid drive flanges
solid high steer arms
Nitro ger 5.13's ARB
Nitro gear chromo's (ford inner/chevy outer) 300M joint
3/4 heim and 1.5x.25 DOM steering
PSC 8" hyd assist
TNT truss with 3 link mount

73 9"
Dutchman 6 lug 31 spline shafts
detroit locker
Ruff stuff diff guard
Chevy disc brakes
TNT UBE's

The only thing I would do differently is shave the 9" housing... which I just picked up another housing to do just that.

 

Gotta question for the ones who know, I need 3.07 gears, or something very close,I want disc brakes, does anyone know what vehicles I can pull that combo from? I'm in an '88 XJ with 3.55's and a Dana35.

 

Do you want to be able to just bolt this in? And why 307??

 

I know, most everyone under the sun wants lower gearing, and a higher numerical value. I put an AX-15 in a Cherokee that had an aw4 and the gas mileage stinks. I've got plenty of power, and I'm not going to huge tires, in fact road performance is as or more important to me than off road. I'd love a bolt in, but I can weld brackets in if necessary.

 

You can find some Ford 8.8s from explorers with 308 they have discs you would need to weld on brackets and I'm sure there are zj d35 with 307 and discs buying wouldn't swap in a d35 if I'm going through the trouble of swapping. The easiest would be finding a newer xj rear axle so its an 8.25 that had a 4.0 manual and bolting that in with the discs brakes from a zj or kj