I thought JP did an article on it and it used bigger tubes and outers but I could be wrong. Still not a bolt in though.

 

The tubes and C's are pretty weak. Bent tubes are a big problem.
I've built up about a dozen or so. Adding sleeves and/or a truss is a must if you are going to wheel one on the rocks.

 

ya im hearing not a hole lot other than its still a D30, C clips are first to go thats a given..
both jp and fourwheeler have a handful of jk and other d30 buildups that they are trying to build up to 37"s, im only aiming for eithr 34" or 35"s. im only interested in the front end i have a cherokee tow pkg D44 from a 90 for the rear.
there seems to be alot of work needing to be done and costs come close to an entire full size swap but i think a full size is a bit obove me at this time. i dont want to go full size to keep it street legal and the narrowing is where my head starts to spin.

 

im open to suggestions if someone has a similarily simple axle swap that keeps or comes close to stock width or has input about serious beef in a d30

 

Both will cost you a lot of $. If you plan on maxing out on 35s and don't wheel that crazy-like, the 3 is fine. Shafts, truss, cover, full case locker, and WJ knuckles. If you plan on keeping an open front, the 30, is plenty fine. I have a LOT into my front 44 (there was a parts/money issue with a guy who did the gears and lost parts, but whatever) and I'd go a different route if I was to build again, but I'm happy with my setup. I'm happy on 35s.

 

I know this actually but was curious as to why he thinks It is a real one.

 

True 44 to me would be one that has lockouts and you can do hub bearings for like $60 bucks not $125 a side

 

Hubs have nothing to do with it, Dodge 1500s used a D44 with unit bearings and even D60s come with them. Tube size makes all the difference.

 

D30 doesn't have c-clips, we were referring to the inner C's that the knuckle attaches to. Later model shafts will hold up to 35s and a light foot. Also you may want to check your rear axle because the D44 wasn't available in 90, just 87-89. 90s got a D35 or 27 spline Chryco 8.25.

 

ok didnt know they had c-clips but thats what i enterpreted it as,ok..
the vin is a 89 but it was sold late as a 90.

 

iv got an unroad worthy 95 ram sittin around with the d44 front an d60 rear.. does any1 have anything to say about that swap into a chero? like i said the narrowing is where my head starts to spin but iv had this in my head for a wile, very hesitant because of my skill and experience thats why iv been looking and planing a D30 build up.

 

Yea, it's vacuum disco, and the diff is on the wrong side.

 

Like said vac disco but it's a driver drop if its a 95. You'd have to retube the passenger side and get a custom shaft and the rear would require new shafts on both sides. Much cheaper and easier to just find axles the right width.

 

ya thats one word i knew to stay away from on a budget "custom shafts"!!! id rather find something in the middle of strong and and commonly found in junkyard or not to expensive to order at a local autoparts store

 

You picked the wrong hobby then. Close as you're going to come is waggy 44s but that's a good bit of work and the 44 isn't all that much stronger than a 30 with late model shafts. Stay around 35s or smaller and stock axles will be fine, unless the rear is a D35.