Adventure

Currently I have a 2in spacer in front and 2in shackles plus 2in block in rear. Sits about 1in higher in rear cause of worn springs. Tires are 235's

I am looking at the RE 3.5 found here:http://www.jackit.com/re6025.html?gc...FQyg4AodjDUAHQ

I'm thinking about 33's in BFG AT not sure if i would prefer 10.5s or 12.5s. I would reuse the 2in spacer and 2in shackle to get enough room to clear tires.

Anyone have any places they recommend looking for package deals with rims and tires? If don't find anything that beats Costco prices on tires I will order just rims.

I do have a TC drop to install with lift to help with vibes and I can also use the 1.5 in location on the shackles to reduce lift a bit if needed. I have shocks that are good for 4in lift installed right now and extended rear bump stops. I will adjust bump stops as needed to not bottom out shocks and clear fenders.

Any thoughts or opinions on this plan?

kirknd4spd

You want 5.5" of lift just for 33's?
If it were me, I'd go 4.5" at the biggest, and new springs in the front and rear. Get rid of the coil spacers, the shackle will be ok. You'll need an adjustable track bar, extended brake lines, and control arms too. Wouldnt be a bad idea to upgrade the steering while you're replacing everything anyways. You may need a SYE too, but TC drop will work at 4.5". Any more lift than that, I'd do a SYE anyways, if it were me.
That 3.5" kit you posted will not have what you need for as big of a lift as you want.

And fwiw, as far as performance goes, I'm liking my skinny 33's better than wider tires. I'm running 33x9.5's, they do great on the rocks and trails I wheel, and do great on the road too. I'm going with 10.5's when these wear out (BFG doesn't make my size anymore).

holycaveman

I agree totally.



To the OP. ARE you wheeling? Or just mall crawling?

Makes a difference. If wheeling then you don't need any more lift. IF mall crawling then 4.5 would help clear the tires since you won't be flexing out.

31's barely fit in the fender wells with proper back spacing. Regardless of lift. So with 33" tires you need to cut fenders if flexing and off roading. Unless you just lift it so high the tires don't come close to the fender wells.

I trimmed my fenders and still kept the stock flares. I don't even need a lift to clear 33" tires. I am at arouind 3.5 now, and I think I am dropping it down an inch and a half. My flat belly will still give me more belly clearance than xj with 35's.

So it matters if your wheeling, or mall crawling. Mall crawling is more expensive. Because you need to go 4.5" and then you need all of what the first poster stated to do it right.

You can go as wide as 11.5" and still tuck inside the fender wells if your back spacing is correct.. I run 33" 10.5" wide tires with 1.5 inch spacers.

For a reference with around 3.5" lift.






So if you are wheeling, then you just trim the fender wells and do not need a transfer case drop down, control arms, track bar, etc...... A lot cheaper.

IF you want flex though you will need longer shocks, and extended brake lines even without a lift.

Adventure

Well my main reasons for lift is tire clearance. I'm leaning towards 33 with the narrower 10.50 for slightly less weight.

I am an engineer for a large heavy civil construction company. I use my jeep to get around on the job sites. Think of a whole neighborhood but just dirt/mud and hills. Normally there is a decent access road but not always.

Hunting and canoeing are also big hobbies so a little more clearance would be nice for getting to that perfect spot. I'm not into the rock crawling, just basic trails and some mud when it needs to be crossed.

I am trying to keep this cheap if possible as I'm a young professional fresh out of college and funds are available but not excessive. This is why I looked at the 3.5+2 instead of a 4.5 or 6.

Has anyone ran the RE 3.5 and a 2 BB? Or for that matter anything comparable.

Adventure

Also, the Jeep is a weekend toy/bad weather car. I only drive it to work when it's wet to have the 4x4 to get around. On nice days I have a commuter car for MPGs and walk more on the job site.

holycaveman

Well you may be able to get away with just the 3.5 lift.. I would suggest a track bar also.

KEep the tires around 10.5 and keep the swaybars connected and it may be just fine.

POssibly some light trimming on the fender well lower edges.

Adventure

With my two goals of budget friendly and clearing 33's I may have a slightly new plan.

Go with the 3.5 RE (have found out that most people get around 4 out of it) and sell the spacer, shackle, and block to recoup some money. Current shocks should be fine as they are good for up to 4. Have a TC drop waiting to be installed.

As for tires can I get away with running 33x10.50 on the stock rims to save money in that department too? Maybe a small wheel spacer just in the front more back space is needed..

I would be OK with slight trimming or bump stopping if needed. I have already trimmed the front air dam. For the fenders I am not a fan of no flares and I do not like how the rear quarter panel looks without the corner cap. How involved is it to move the flares up? Or can I just trim behind them and have the tires tuck?

Adventure

Just pulled the trigger last night...

3.5 re
Re adjustable track bar
Set of 15x8 black d-windows

Stopping by Costco to figure out tires, still leaning towards 33x10.50 BFG ats

Also have steering stabilizer and tc drop sitting at home to install.

Sawzall and BFH are ready if fenders need some convincing.