Switching Axles - good idea or waste of money?
Thread Starter
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 664
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From: Arizona
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So I have a 96 4 door with 150k. It has a 3.5" lift with 33's, d30 and 8.25. No aftermarket gears and has lunchbox lockers. Money isn't tight but I could use it elsewhere.
Here is my predicament: I want to switch out the front d30 for a d44 full width and the 8.25 to a ford 9" full width with disc brakes. But is this all necessary? I can buy all the kits to make this work and know it will be bad *** when its complete.
I have done some serious rock crawling up some steep waterfalls and haven't broken anything. I know there are weak points on both axles. But also I haven't done any serious rock crawling in about 5 years and would like to just stick to trails.
I was thinking that if I didn't spend the money on switching the axles then I could spend it on 4.56 gears and selectable lockers and other areas on the XJ. Will I regret not building some beefy axles or not worry about it since they have held up so far?
Here is my predicament: I want to switch out the front d30 for a d44 full width and the 8.25 to a ford 9" full width with disc brakes. But is this all necessary? I can buy all the kits to make this work and know it will be bad *** when its complete.
I have done some serious rock crawling up some steep waterfalls and haven't broken anything. I know there are weak points on both axles. But also I haven't done any serious rock crawling in about 5 years and would like to just stick to trails.
I was thinking that if I didn't spend the money on switching the axles then I could spend it on 4.56 gears and selectable lockers and other areas on the XJ. Will I regret not building some beefy axles or not worry about it since they have held up so far?
CF Veteran

Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,636
Likes: 469
From: Southern OH
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If you are only running 33s I would keep the stock axles, the Dana 30/ Chrysler 8.25 combo has proven to be strong enough for 33s. I wouldn't swap axles unless you plan on running 37s or larger.
I agree. Unless you want to run bigger tires or tougher trails, what's the point? And if money is at all a concern, run what you have until it breaks. Then upgrade.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 30
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From: Blacksburg, VA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Agree with the others but I've been in your shoes......
If you know 100% you're staying with 33s, then put a bit more into your axles now with gears and such and chromoly shafts and you'll be good.
I first built up my HP30/8.25 for 35s and it did awesome for years, but moving to 37s now and currently in progress on the HP44/9" swap, both of them being heavily built axles.
If you know 100% you're staying with 33s, then put a bit more into your axles now with gears and such and chromoly shafts and you'll be good.
I first built up my HP30/8.25 for 35s and it did awesome for years, but moving to 37s now and currently in progress on the HP44/9" swap, both of them being heavily built axles.
Thread Starter
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 664
Likes: 29
From: Arizona
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Agree with the others but I've been in your shoes......
If you know 100% you're staying with 33s, then put a bit more into your axles now with gears and such and chromoly shafts and you'll be good.
I first built up my HP30/8.25 for 35s and it did awesome for years, but moving to 37s now and currently in progress on the HP44/9" swap, both of them being heavily built axles.
If you know 100% you're staying with 33s, then put a bit more into your axles now with gears and such and chromoly shafts and you'll be good.
I first built up my HP30/8.25 for 35s and it did awesome for years, but moving to 37s now and currently in progress on the HP44/9" swap, both of them being heavily built axles.
Hey Expo, what sort of upgrades did you do to your 30 and 8.25?
Thread Starter
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 664
Likes: 29
From: Arizona
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What do you guys think of keeping lunch box lockers and adding different gear sets? Since I am going to keep with the axles and since they have the lunch box locker what's the point in spending $1200 plus $'s on selectable lockers. If I do decide to switch to selectable lockers, it shouldn't be a big deal right?
Junior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 30
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From: Blacksburg, VA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What do you guys think of keeping lunch box lockers and adding different gear sets? Since I am going to keep with the axles and since they have the lunch box locker what's the point in spending $1200 plus $'s on selectable lockers. If I do decide to switch to selectable lockers, it shouldn't be a big deal right?
Switching from lunchbox to selectable is not a small project and you need to know what you're doing since you'll need to remove parts, like the carrier in a front axle, and will need to be able to re-measure and set gears. But there is nothing wrong with running lunchbox style lockers. Gearing is going to be super important if running 35s though so you'll at least need to change those out.
In my axles, which I still have and am selling but they aren't under the Jeep anymore, I had the HP 30 front with chromoly shafts, 4.56 gears, an Aussie locker and other goodies, like Alloy USA ball joints, 1 ton over the knuckle steering, etc.
The rear was a 29 spline 8.25 also with chromoly shafts and a Powertrax in the rear.
The setup worked amazing and never failed me. Good luck with your mods and whatever direction you decide to go!
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CF Veteran

Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,636
Likes: 469
From: Southern OH
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
What do you guys think of keeping lunch box lockers and adding different gear sets? Since I am going to keep with the axles and since they have the lunch box locker what's the point in spending $1200 plus $'s on selectable lockers. If I do decide to switch to selectable lockers, it shouldn't be a big deal right?
Junior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 30
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From: Blacksburg, VA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 327
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From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Year: 1998 (buggy), 1998 DD
Model: Cherokee
I'd keep your 8.25 and D30 for now. If you do decide to step up to 35's or larger, you could always acquire the axles and start building them on the side.
One thing, your rig is a 96', the 8.25 transfer year between 27 and 29 spline.
If it's 29 Spline, you're good to go.
27 Spline and I'd work on getting something else in.
One thing, your rig is a 96', the 8.25 transfer year between 27 and 29 spline.
If it's 29 Spline, you're good to go.
27 Spline and I'd work on getting something else in.
Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 201
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From: Northern Canada
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0 Renix
If you're going to stay under 35s, I'd just run the stock axles, but I'd recommend sticking with 33s and not trying to push it with 34s... Although, as said check if that's a 29 spline 8.25 and ditch it if it isn't.
IMHO the work to swap a D44 front in is not worth the rewards. The D44 swap is a fair amount of work and cost, yet is a marginal or non-upgrade in many aspects.
IMHO the work to swap a D44 front in is not worth the rewards. The D44 swap is a fair amount of work and cost, yet is a marginal or non-upgrade in many aspects.
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