So, it looks like I'm going to need to put my sway bar back on to get my Jeep inspected (damn PA). The problem is, at stock height, the stock links clunked against the carriage bolts on my aftermarket bumper.

Does anyone know what the factory link length is of the endlinks, or if shorter ones are available? I guess it would just be easier just to trim them down to avoid clunking.

What would you do in my situation? I would still be interested to know the factory endlink length.

 

I'll measure for you if you tell me exactly what to measure.

 

Link length between the axle mount and the swaybar. Also, is the pressed-in Torx, does that look like a 1/2" bolt to you?

I'm gonna try and throw something together at Lowe's on my lunch break today.

 

Just measured, give me a second.

 

I upgraded to a dual rate sway bar from Off-Road Only. It's not cheap, but works way better than any quick disconnect system out there. Leave it hooked up all the time, then when you go off-roading, flip the switch (or upgrade to the air driven one and throw a switch to trip it) and you are ready to go. Once back on the road, flip the switch and you are back to full sway bar. No fiddling with pins, or clips or trying to line up the holes, flip the lever and away you go....

 

That's interesting. I'll probably get JKS after my lift is installed, but for now I'm just looking for a quick temporary fix. Doesn't even need to be quick-disco capable.

 

I'm guessing you mean the front links.

If you'd rather me measure eye to eye let me know and I will. Sorry for the ****ty picture, it was cold as hell outside

 

Thanks man! Yeah, stock links aren't going to work for me. They don't look like they're too easy to trim down, either. Grrrr, I hate you PA!

 

Why don't you trim down the carriage bolts? I'm guessing that's where it's hitting right? Where the bumper brackets attach to the unibody? I'm sure there's a reason you're not doing that but as somebody who hasn't had experience with an aftermarket bumper, I don't get it.

 

I'm going to lunch soon, I'll snap a pic to show you. The carriage bolt can't be trimmed as the sway bar itself is knocking against the head of it because the links are too long. So I need the sway bar to come down a little to avoid the knocking.

 

Alright cool.

Also, why the hell is there a torx head on the end of that bolt if it's pressed in...

 

Damn good question, lol. To **** you off! Torx are bad enough as it is. Angle grinder and TRE puller got those out for me. I need to figure what size those are to replace as well.

 

Can't tell you what size the torx is but the nut is 18mm. Just checked.

 

Hey there Pockets.

I think I still have my JKS kit from before I made the switch. If you have a couple days for me to find it and put it back together again I can sell you my used bits. They are a little scratched up but used less than a year before I got rid of them. You may have to fiddle with the link length depending on your lift, but I have some different lengths that may work.

 

They should be 1/2. My clevis pins I used to use as quick discos were 7/16 and slid in way easy.
And Idk about that auto sway bar. The JKs have them and Ive heard its still not as good as fully disconnecting