While I'm tackling my sagging headliner, I figured I'd do my best to improve the overall comfort of the vehicle and quiet it down. I don't want this thread to turn into a "this is better, this is best" conversation. I'm simply documenting the steps I'm taking and hoping for some input and advice along the way.

First things first. There are a lot of threads on the internet regarding sound deadening. Some people swear by Dynamat, others SecondSkin, and others still are perfectly fine with Peel n Seal roof flashing. For my purposes, I did not want to spend much at all on CLD tiles. If I'm simply going after 25% coverage to take down the resonance of a panel, it seems like that's a pretty minor step in sound deadening anyway. The real sound deadening will come from acoustic insulation/barriers.

That being said, for the sake of science and curiosity, I opted to go with $30 worth of Peel N Seal. Part of this decision is because I'm cheap, but part is to see for myself how it works. There are many arguments (not discussions, but arguments) about this product out there and this will prove to me which side of those arguments has more merit. My initial impression after working with it is that it's very similar to Fatmat or Dynamat, which I have also used in the past. It does affect the sound of large, flat panels, so in my book it's working.

I'll be applying Peel N Seal to the roof, doors, and possibly firewall. I'm well aware that it will have very little effect in terms of sound deadening, particularly on the roof (even if I use Dynamat, it won't do much). My next step is deciding what kind of insulator to use on the roof and doors. I understand 3M Thinsulate Acoustic is great stuff, but it is way too costly for this project. Is there a product that is similar and more widely available? I'll be covering the entire roof in it prior to re-installing the headliner. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ states that the 3M stuff works very well, and is recommended. So, anything similar and cheaper that might do the trick? It's perfectly fine if it doesn't work as well.

For the doors, I'm thinking a roll of MLV from home depot would work fine. Simply cut to cover the entire panel, holes and all, and seal around the edges with tape. However, am I correct in assuming I need to decouple the MLV from the panel, necessitating using another layer? What would be suitable for this?

Basically, I'm trying to follow the guidelines shown at http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ without spending nearly that much money on the project. I'm looking for similar, potentially less effective materials that will accomplish the same overall goal, but to a lesser degree.

Any advice is appreciated!

tl;dr version:

I'm using roof flashing as cheap CLD tiles.
I'd like to find a cheap alternative to Thinsulate Acoustic or similar.
I'd like to find a cheap source of MLV and CCF equivalents.

Again, I'm not delusional and thinking that I'll get the same thing for less. I just want to do the best I can while spending as little as possible. It's fun for me. I picked up my Jeep for less than $40 (technically 24 beers), so I cannot and will not justify buying the more expensive, higher performing materials. If it doesn't work well, then I'll let everyone know that so they can avoid the work.

 

i used tite seal (peel'n;nseel counterpart) came in a bigger roll and works very well, i did the roof and all 4 door panels. night and day difference in road noise! roof flashing works great!

 

I have access to large rolls of flexible yellow foam, unsure how to tell if it's closed cell or open cell. I'd say it's roughly 1/4 inch thick. Is this usable anywhere?

 

Glad to hear it! I'm already set on using the roof flashing, and it's half installed. Mostly concerned about putting layers over top of that to help even more!

 

i double layered my door panels i still cant believe how well it worked, i couldnt tell you about other products thos since ive only used the flashing

 

Agree that 100% coverage isn't necessary all places. I experimented with dynamat on a door. Covered probably 80-90% of the inside of the outer skin. Then completely covered the inner skin with cutouts for speaker, door linkage, etc. it gave a nice satisfying thud when I would close the door, and cut down on resonance, but didn't do much for road/wind noise.

I did paint my floor with monstaliner, then cover with dynamat, then new carpet with mass backing. Never got to drive it between individual steps , but the carpet with mass backing was probably best.

However best thing I did was get rid of my old trxus MTs and went with cooper discoverer st Maxx. Much quieter.

I am interested to follow your project. I plan to do the roof sometime after I cage it. I'd like to find a replacement for the 3m stuff. I tried stuffing the guts from some old ratty couch pillows in the tailgate. Actually worked pretty well. I wonder if you just buy a roll of the mass backing stuff from auto carpet concepts if that could be useful. It's pretty cheap but may be too heavy. But if you could get it to glue well to the roof, it wouldn't be an issue. I think the MLV on the doors will work a lot better than the dynamat I did. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the input! I haven't done the outer skin yet, but will be tackling that by the weekend. I'm thinking to facilitate good adhesion on the roof (since people say not to use Peel N Seal on the roof. Not sure why, since it's sticky as hell), I may tape the seams of the Peel N Seal with gorilla tape. That way even if the adhesive fails, they'll stay up. I like the mass backing idea. I figure regular carpet padding would work well, cut into strips and overlapped. Gluing individual pieces would put less initial stress on the adhesive, since it is so heavy. I'm not sure how it would compare to the 3M stuff, but it has to be way better than nothing at all.

A side benefit of all of this, I'm hoping, will be thermal insulation. If the jeep can stay cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, that's a huge win, regardless of the sound deadening properties.

 

Make your own lizard skin http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=511370

 

I'm going to pick up a roll of Frost King and see how well it works in combination with Peel and Seal. I see some thread about Frost King vs. Peel and Seal, but all of these threads aren't approaching sound deadening the right way (they want to use one single product). I figure with the CCF layer on the Frost King, and the aluminum layer, it should provide good thermal insulation and some sound deadening.

 

So I stuck Frost King to the door panel board, not to the door itself but reversed it and stuck it to the panel. Combined with the Peel and Seal tiles (25%ish coverage), this definitely made a huge difference in the acoustics of the door closing, at the very least. Hard to say if it helped with road noise when only one door is done.

Do you guys think I could do the same to the headliner board? Stick frost king to the back of the board itself rather than the roof? Not sure if having the aluminum layer facing a certain direction matters. This would put less strain on the Peel and Seal adhesive. I applied it on a temperate day, but the following two days were quite hot so I took my J roller to the tiles when they were hot to help out. I then ran Gorilla Tape along the seams, so if the adhesive ever fails they will stay up.

I also picked up a headliner from a 99 Cherokee after botching the re-upholstery of my own. This one has built in speaker bar and better lighting, and matches the interior, so it was a big win. For now I'll continue doing the doors and wait for a response regarding the headliner/frost king question.

 

For you guys that have used roof flashing material, Pee-n-Seal or other...

Have you had any issues with out-gassing or chemical smells that stick around awhile? Also, when used on a place like the inside of the roof, have you had an issues with adhesion when it gets really hot?

Living in Texas, summer temps over a 100 degrees is pretty well guaranteed to happen about 30-50 days between May and September. During these days, the inside of my Jeep can get to be about 155 degrees pretty routinely. Just wondering if there is a chance of this stuff letting go and falling off and laying up there above the headliner turning to goo and staining it.

I've used FatMat for the doors, and tried rubberized undercoating and some spray foam for some of the other panels just to help with costs, but I've always been curious about the Peel-n-Seal.

Anyone with first-hand experience that can answer those questions?

 

I'd suggest sticking some in the oven and seeing how it reacts. Some people have done tests at 400+ between different products, but I haven't seen any in a reasonable range that could actually be hit. Many people say to NOT put it on the roof, I'm doing so out of curiosity and to find out for myself. I don't see many days above 90 degrees here though.

 

I've just finished installing the replacement headliner in my '94 from a '99. It has the built in speakers and rear light. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear that my Jeep is wired to accept these speakers and light, so I will have to look at wiring them myself. The dome light is also problematic as the mounting location is different. Will have to find a creative solution for it. I applied Frost King self adhesive foam/foil to the back side of the headliner before installing (and used extra Loctite spray adhesive to hold it on well). We will see if this insulates the jeep from either sound or temps!

Still need to do the rear doors and under the trim in the back. Then I'll be replacing the carpet and should be good to go. I've also applied foam to all of the weatherstripping contact areas, around the spare tire mounting location, and anywhere else rattles seem to occur. I'll update as I progress more with any results I notice.

 

i used the same type of headliner in my 96

but i had the wiring for a light back there maybe just tap into the front light and extend them to the rear?

the 99 dome light DOES NOT WORK WITH THE EARLIER MODLE WIRING, it'll melt and catch fire. i used a small LED panel and plugged it directly into the connector that goes to the domelight instead of plugging it into the dome light, it comes on as it should i just dont have a switch to control it any more

the from dome light manual switched lights will come on but the main light one come on with the door open, ive got an over head console that im swaping in to the fronts no big deal for me