Subs: Powered all in one vs. building custom box
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 864
Likes: 4
From: Arlington, Texas
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
alright thanks to all three of your input and time spent. As suggested I wont stress to much because im not a huge audiophile but I think Ill go with a tight sealed box and a 6.5 - 10 in.
Im currently looking at a RF shallow mount p3 10 in and 250 watt 2 channel sub that I could get for 100 bucks on craigslist. Does this seem like a decent combo to go in a box that I will build? It seems to fit Macgyvers math theories that he posted in terms of wattage.
Im currently looking at a RF shallow mount p3 10 in and 250 watt 2 channel sub that I could get for 100 bucks on craigslist. Does this seem like a decent combo to go in a box that I will build? It seems to fit Macgyvers math theories that he posted in terms of wattage.
I'll put it this way. I have an Athena Technologies 8" subwoofer as part of my home theater setup. It has a built in 120 watt amp. It can get REALLY loud and shake everything on the walls. I think a 10" and 250 watts in your XJ should suffice. Unless you're just going for stupid loud and trying to impress the homies and make an annoyance of yourself.
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 120
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From: Orange County, CA
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
At any rate, I hope the OP has enough info to properly guide him, but not so much that he gets "analysis paralysis".
However, if he chooses to learn more, he can spend some time on www.the12volt.com and pick up a copy of a book I first cut my teeth on:
However, if he chooses to learn more, he can spend some time on www.the12volt.com and pick up a copy of a book I first cut my teeth on:
And yeah I'm thinkin this will probaly be my max size as I hate being one of those "fill in the blank" on the road.
And cheers for confirming that matchup.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 93
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From: Monument CO
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey MacGyver...where did you run your supply (for the amp) on the firewall? I'd like to keep it on the passanger's side but wanted your feedback...if you could do your install again where would you go?
I got a 97 and want an easy and clean run.
I got a 97 and want an easy and clean run.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 864
Likes: 4
From: Arlington, Texas
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A 40 amp fused 6 gauge wire going from the stud on the front of the underhood power distribution block (where all the relays are), to a separate aftermarket fuse panel I have mounted on the firewall just for aftermarket stuff (amp, lights, etc.).
From my fuse panel (a 30 amp fuse dedicated to the amp), I have an 8 guage wire routed along the main harness that is at the top of the firewall. I have this wire in it's own loom and zip-tied to the main harness. When I get to the driver's side, I have an area beneath the brake booster where I have drilled various holes and installed rubber grommets. My 8 gauge wire passes through one of those to the interior, goes along underneath the dash (zip-tied), and then goes under the center console.
From there, I have that wire coming out from under the passenger side of the console and going under the front part of the passenger seat (behind the front seat mounts) to the amp. I also have the remote turn-on lead from the head unit and the RCA signal wires routed under the console too, but I made sure the RCA's were the shielded type and kept them a few inches from any of the power wires. I get no electrical signal interference when listening to my music.
It would have been nice to keep it on the passenger side, but for me it's just too hard to work under there (I'm a stocky build 265 pound guy) and it's difficult to see what I'm doing. There is also the risk of accidentally drilling a hole through the heater core or AC evaporator coils or AC housing/drain area, which gets really expensive, really fast. There's just more room to work with on the drivers side and less chance of royally screwing something up. Also, if you have an aftermarket alarm with auxiliary outputs that would allow you to control your lights with your remote, most of the wires the alarm attaches to anyway are on that side, so it helps having it all together.
I have a 10" Infinity Basslink, it's powered and super easy to install. It is pretty big, but the connections on the back of the box make it easy to remove when you need more room (super nice to be able to do). The bass is enough to shake the windows pretty good, but it can be easily adjusted with a remote dial that I mounted to the side of my seat. I've had it for 6 months, and it works great. Some people claimed that it quit after 3 weeks, but I'm not complaining!
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