dieselace74

I know there's plenty of threads and I'm going through them now. Just to give you guys some back ground, rustys 3" coils with 3/4" terra flex spacers, IRO adjustable trac bar with rubicon express super flex LCA and rough country quick discos. I just installed new ball joints Sunday and it seems to ride fine on the street. Feels solid after the ball joints but man on the hwy after a pothole or a rough patch it shakes like no other, almost losing control. I'm really at a loss right now. Drag link and trac bar seem parallel and steering feels solid on the street. I could really use some pointers on this. I don't wanna just throw parts at it but I don't know what else it could be...

02tjsport

Check your trackbar axle-side bolt. Rather, check the hole or the bolt in the hole. This can become wallowed out. The bolt should have no play.

Also, The bolt torque is critical here, I believe 55 ft-lbs but it could be 45. However, if your hole is wallowed out the torque doesn't matter and if it's gonna wobble then it's gonna wobble. This was the root cause for mine and once I drilled it out one size larger and got a new bushing and sleeve to match all was corrected.

I had violent-shaking-death-wobble, so bad it actually sheared my frame side axle bolt off twice (JKS trackbar). I had s shimmy with my budget boost with stock trackbar (axle rotated causing start of wallowing), and once I upgraded to 3.5RE with JKS trackbar it went full on wobble.

Another solution is to do the 1-ton steering upgrade from jcr. You can run with no steering stabilizer with this setup.

Just realized this was in the Cherokee section. My reference was on a TJ. Same suspension design though. Good luck.

xj_bill

I'm also dealing with DW on a 6.5" SA lift with 33"s. DW's tend to be different for everyone, but here's some of my details..

One thing I found by disconnecting the drag link from the pitman arm was a little play in the steering box. I replaced the steering box and the DW reduced (not eliminated).

I've also found I can minimize the DW by applying steering force when going over bumps.

I've made a few other mods that haven't seemed to help a whole lot...1ton OTK steering including relocating track bar (most people say this helps a lot), poly CA bushings on the front axle, replaced ball joints, checked wheel bearings.

I removed the sway bar and steering damper when I installed the 1ton OTK, so my next steps are to fit those back up. I also want to remove and check the front right damper...it's a newer Bilstein but the DW seems to start in that corner. Also install LAs (may not help, but it's time).

Seems to me eliminating DW is mostly about changing the harmonic. I may fab up a unibody brace to increase the harmonic frequency, despite my front bumper being stout and tied into the unibody.

What is truly bizarre is this didn't start until I added some lift blocks in the rear...until then it was fine...so caster may have something to do with it, but my pride won't let me remove the lift blocks.

I've also driven it w and wo the front drive shaft on a hunch - no difference.

dieselace74

I have been wanting to upgrade to the jct 1-ton steering. Just haven't had the funds. But I might have to bite the bullet. As for the trac bar i had someone turning the steering wheel and there was a slight pop from the tie rod end that attached to the chassis but the axle side mount seemed stiff, like no play what so ever. Even after I disconnected the trac bar. But I'll go back and take the whole thing off to check if the bolt hole on the axle side. As a precaution I'm replacing the tie rod end and maybe that's the problem if it is it's kinda ****ty coming from IRO being that it was only installed 6months ago. Wish me luck...

Fred/N0AZZ

Just do a ZJ tie rod upgrade and call it good it so much stronger than stock and all solid steel not rolled with larger TRE plus a direct bolt-in no mods but one for a mid-90 V-8 GC. I run one even with my 35" tires best part under a $100 at AutoZone their top of the line branded ones (Moog under their name).


This need to be done at the very least with any lift and larger tires.

dieselace74

It's been a busy day to say the least. The trac bar checked out fine I found the UCA bushings on the axle were completely shot! Like not rubber, and it has excessive toe in. Just finished up with the bushing and I replaced the old steering damper. Getting it aligned tmw morning and hopefully I should be good.

Fred/N0AZZ

The ZJ TRE's should be done before an alignment and new UCA's as well adj. ones are best to adj the pinion angle on front axle.

02tjsport

If all you are adjusting is toe. You can do that yourself very easily And save 80-100 that most shops charge these days for a 4 wheel align when they are only changing two wheels. Their is no other adjustment that can be made on a stock jeep