Slip Yoke Advice
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Slip Yoke Advice
So I just got the 3" Trailmaster lift installed finally. Measurements showed I gained 3 3/4" in the front and 4 3/4" in the rear. I had some pretty strong vibrations before the alignment and now there is just enough to be noticeable along with a grind when applying/letting off the accelerator.
I've decided against a T-case drop even though the stuff to do it would cost $7. Instead I'd like to do a SYE hack n tap kit from IRO. Any of you guys have any suggestions or advice before I go ahead and order the stuff to do it? I honestly dont' go wheeling much, mostly a daily driver to go through snow and mud when needed. My info is in my sig as well. Thanks guys.
After the lift
I've decided against a T-case drop even though the stuff to do it would cost $7. Instead I'd like to do a SYE hack n tap kit from IRO. Any of you guys have any suggestions or advice before I go ahead and order the stuff to do it? I honestly dont' go wheeling much, mostly a daily driver to go through snow and mud when needed. My info is in my sig as well. Thanks guys.
After the lift
#2
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Location: Hamburg, NY
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
First off, XJ looks great. Second, I'd recommend the she & new driveshaft. It really is a great upgrade. I should have done it to all my past jeeps.
It's really easy to install the sye yourself. I didn't even remove NY 231. Just pulled the DS & pulled the back of the case. Swapped in the she & new tail shaft & reinstalled. Watch YouTube videos a few times prior to doing it.
Good luck, I bought everything through jeephut. Check out the vendor section.
It's really easy to install the sye yourself. I didn't even remove NY 231. Just pulled the DS & pulled the back of the case. Swapped in the she & new tail shaft & reinstalled. Watch YouTube videos a few times prior to doing it.
Good luck, I bought everything through jeephut. Check out the vendor section.
#3
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you have the scratch and the time, do the SYE and don't forget you'll need shims more than likely. If you don't think you'll be doing the SYE for a while, and just need a temp fix for the vibrations, I'd go ahead and do the T-case drop. I wouldn't recommend it for a long term, and do as little as possible, but as a temp fix should be fine.
Don't be timid when removing the studs if you do the drop.
Don't be timid when removing the studs if you do the drop.
#5
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My new leaf packs that came with the lift already have the shims to rotate the rear diff. up. I wasn't sure if I would need to keep them in w/ the SYE. I called IRO and the tech said I would need a front driveshaft off of a 99-01 XJ and to keep the shims. I don't think I need to spend the money on a HD SYE kit since it's more of a daily driver. I also plan on getting the jig for cutting and drilling since its all under the vehicle still. Thanks for all the advice so far.
Found some other stuff out while under there today. Missing my steering stop bolt on the drivers side, my adjustable track bar doesn't adjust far enough, and my rear differential sits about 3/8" farther to the passenger side after the lift. Lol always fun to find new things to tinker on. Did a bunch of measuring on the rear and everything is even so the stock wheels I bought awhile back must be off somehow.
Found some other stuff out while under there today. Missing my steering stop bolt on the drivers side, my adjustable track bar doesn't adjust far enough, and my rear differential sits about 3/8" farther to the passenger side after the lift. Lol always fun to find new things to tinker on. Did a bunch of measuring on the rear and everything is even so the stock wheels I bought awhile back must be off somehow.
#6
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Still had vibes with the hack n tap, went with a real sye. I will never waste my time with a hack n tap again. A real sye has more benefits also over hack n tap.
#7
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
I did the IRO hack n tap. Didnt have much luck with it with removing the vibes so i went with the SYE and it was great. I had a shop do the SYE install so i can't vouch for the work. But i did do the hack n tap myself and it was a PITA. It just seemed kinda cheesy too. But thats just my opinion.
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#9
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Its hit and miss, it was installed correctly I used the jig that IRO sells. Not very hard to drill and tap a hole. Its a bandaid setup IMO, if it was so great everyone would do it.But who knows I could of had play on my output shaft bearing.
#10
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Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
I have the IRO H&T on my 2000 4.5" 4*shims with the np242, selectable lockers front and rear.
Have been wheeling with it for three years no issues.
No problem with vibes, its smooth as silk.
Have been wheeling with it for three years no issues.
No problem with vibes, its smooth as silk.
#11
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I may have had something wrong internally in my tcase then. Ever since I installed the AA sye its been smoother.
#13
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I went ahead and ordered the IRO kit and the jig. I could pry make it work without it but i don't want to mess something like that up haha. Now I just need to get a driveshaft and replace some u-joints.
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