Replace oil pump at 208k ???
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Replace oil pump at 208k ???
I'm getting ready to replace my oil pan gasket and the rear main seal. I thought that while I was down there, maybe do a little pre-emptive long-term maintenance and go ahead and replace the oil pump, screen and pick up tube. Nothing high volume. Thinking I'd like to get a Mopar, but its a lot more than a Melling. I was under there yesterday wiping off crud and oil, and saw that the oil pan gasket is sticking out about 3/8 to near 1/2" on the passenger side where the pan meets the timing chain cover? I believe that its getting oil on my serpentine belt and causing my charging problem ? While I'm down under, was considering checking the torque specs on the caps??? Hoping the front seal isn't leaking too. I already have the distributor gasket and the oil filter adapter gaskets too. The front seal will be my weakest point. Give me your opinions, thanks !!!
#5
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Renix
If you are going in that far I would replace the rod bearings as well. Buddy of mine pulled his and they were worn through the copper. I think that is why these engines throw rods from time to time. cheap insurance.
#6
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Hey guys, I'd leave it alone. These aren't Chevies, Fords, or Mopars...........
#7
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I-6
No, I don't have any rattles, knocks or engine noises at all. I've done a recent oil change and no metal at all. My oil pressure is excellent and steady. The way it runs now, and the power it had when I kicked it down hard, there's nothing wrong with the bearings. It accelerated smooth as silk and is impressively quick. My oil pressure never drops below 30. I was just thinking that a fresh oil pump, would help with longevity. If it ever got to that point I'd just pull it. I've rebuilt the bottom end of an inline 4 cylinder on a VW w/o pulling the motor. I wouldn't do it again.
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#8
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The pump in there is likely better quality than the replacement new part. +
#9
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Yeah, I figured it was good part, last 18yrs so far ! I just wasn't sure how long they last. The Mopar was about $147 on ebay, comes with everything like a kit. The Melling was less than $60, but the tube and screen weren't included. I'm planning on driving this baby till the cows come home! Maybe just clean the screen good and let it ride?
#10
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Year: 1990
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Yeah, I figured it was good part, last 18yrs so far ! I just wasn't sure how long they last. The Mopar was about $147 on ebay, comes with everything like a kit. The Melling was less than $60, but the tube and screen weren't included. I'm planning on driving this baby till the cows come home! Maybe just clean the screen good and let it ride?
#11
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Agreeing with Cruiser on this one. When I rebuilt my engine at 218k miles, I left the old pump in there. The internals of the pump looked good. Still makes great oil psi on the new engine.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I put the Melling in a few years ago when I did the RMS and it's been fine; pressure is solid and higher than the stock pump. Getting the pickup tube into the pump is a bit of a pain and has to be bent slightly at the sump end to clear the pan, but otherwise installation was simple.
Last edited by JK253; 05-16-2018 at 10:53 PM.
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