VT XJ

First off, I've never welded anything in my life. I acquired a Lincoln Mig 135 and some gloves, helmet, jacket. It's set up for flux-core wire right now and I had some questions. I read the whole of the TOTM Welding Tips/Tricks and got a few things out of it. Unfortunately the thread got out of control(Please do not do the same here):

- Clean welding surfaces well, Use grinder, flap disk, wire brush etc. and acetone to clean surfaces
- Practice a lot on scrap metal, cut through welds to verify penetration
- Start with welding chart and modify slightly until I find out what works for me
- Heat cast surface when welding steel to cast


General questions are:
1. Anyone have any additional tips or references for learning how to weld. I'm very hands-on and mechanically inclined so I think I can pick it up. I just want to make sure I'm following safety guidelines and would like to see good examples of technique and how to access whether a weld is good or not without cutting it.

2. Is flux-core good enough for the things I want to accomplish in my plans below or should I be looking at getting my welder set up with co2/argon and traditional wire.


Plans for my rig:

1. Weld sway bar links to axle. I have a used TJ rubicon 44 w/ WJ knuckles, 5.13, electric selectable locker. Problem is that I want it to pass inspection in VA and I don't think it will without a front sway bar connected. I have some JCR extended sway bar links that I'm hoping will work. They get welded to the inner c. What special considerations/techniques are there when welding swaybar links to the inner c?

http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/mercha...uct_Code=SWYBR

2. Install weld-on ruff stuff unibody stiffeners and Poly Performance XJ leaf spring mounts. My weld nut on the inside of the stock Leaf spring mount broke off and I have it jerry-rigged right now and want a permanent solution. What special considerations/techniques are there when welding thicker 3/16" steel to the unibody?

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/XJRAIL.html

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...&utm_campaign=

fox128

The only reason I read your entire novel post is because I'm on vacation and don't have much going haha. Unfortunately I can only help you with a few things.

I don't know much about flux core. I have welded with the same miller 251 for years with solid wire. Just practice a lot and post pics of your welds and we could help more then.

For the stiffeners make sure you get all the undercoating off the unibody. Other than that wear fireproof clothing because hot metal will be showering your for about 12 worth of welding.

I do not know what you speak of:

[QUOTE=

My weld nut on the inside of the stock Leaf spring mount broke off and I have it jerry-rigged [/QUOTE] 2

VT XJ

Yeah, sorry for the long post, but I've been accused of not including enough detail. I was planning on starting by cutting some 2" strips of scrap steel and practicing on it. I could definitely post some pictures of my practice for feedback.

Maybe mount isn't the right term. Hanger?

The inner part of the leaf spring hanger attached to the unibody toward the front of the jeep has a nut welded inside of it. The weld broke on both sides when I was uninstalling a set of leaf springs. I cut small holes in the floor over the mounts, removed the old nut and used a new one that is not welded to the mount.

Not sure, but I think the bolt is starting to wallow out the mount hole and I'm getting some movement of the springs from side to side. This makes me very uneasy while driving. I've been looking at the poly performance rear leaf spring hanger bracket as a permanent solution. It looks pretty stout and would replace the inner and outer parts of the stock leaf spring hanger.

JLK's XJ's

Other than what you already mentioned above, there's not a lot to tell, it's all gonna come by doing. If you don't already have one, get a 4 1/2" grinder and some wheels and tiger discs so you can fix your mistakes. Other than that, get your scrap steel together and go for it. Maybe watch a couple youtube videos first.

My only real advice would be don't get in a hurry, do your welding from a comfortable position, and watch your puddle rather than your arc. (the puddle is the hot part directly behind the tip) You want it to be the same size for the entire weld, not getting big, then disappearing, etc. You control it by your speed of movement and the motion of the tip.

Also, for sure practice on scrap and then post up pics. It's a lot easier to tell you what you're doing wrong (or right).

Flux core will work ok for what you'll be doing. It won't be as pretty, but as long as you don't care it'll be fine. That being said I prefer solid wire and argon/CO2.

RWKHausSupply

I will add, when doing the unibody siffiners. Start and concentrate on the stiffner when in arc, and only drag the arc to the unibody for a short period in comparision to the stiffner. Being that the stiff. is much thicker and better material, you will need to burn in to the stiff, much more and then use that metal to basically fuse the uni. to the stiff. you will need about 2 times the burn in to the siff then you will in to the uni. You will see what I mean if you get some 10ga steel and some 3/16" steel and try welding them together.

94xjohio

I'm in the same boat as VT XJ.

Does it matter what wire you use for the thickness of the material. Our can you use flux for all thickness and hard write for all thickness of metal.

When should you use gas when not to

What size wire should be used as well.

My first projects after practice practice practice.....etc. Rear half of xj rusting out, so new floors. replacing lca bracket on d30.

Lincoln 140 mig.

-Rudy-

I think my main tips would be to make sure you weld in ventilated areas to begin with.

Make yourself comfortable so that you can take your time.

Protect your neck and the top of your head, because Sparks love to land there and it stings. Wear a hat or something that isn't going to catch on fire easily.

Invest in an auto dimming helmet if you can. It's worth the money and helps beginners be more accurate with their welds.

JLK's XJ's

Your can use either wire for any thickness, but the amperage of your welder dictates how thick you can go. Your welder is good for up to about 1/4", after that you won't get very good penetration. You can push it a little by going very slow and running multiple passes.

JLK's XJ's

PS wire size .021-.025 is fine for most of what you'll do on a jeep. I use gas for everything.

machinisttx

Do that. It's the only way to learn.