Rear disk brake conversion cheap?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 689
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From: Longview, TX
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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From: Southern Maryland
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
Last edited by ehall; Jan 24, 2015 at 11:16 AM.
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 60
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Year: 1998
Engine: 4.0
I'd go with this direct bolt on. I think the only issue would be with parking brake cables. That being said, I haven't done this swap.
Last edited by checkmate3001; Jan 25, 2015 at 09:14 AM.
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,254
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From: London Ontario Canada
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I went the KJ route. Everything BUT the brake line and emergency brake cables work. The KJ brake line fittings are Metric. I cut the flare off and swapped in an Imperial line nut and then double flared the line again. THEY are very hard lines so use a really good flare tool.
The emergency brake line are way too ling. The Crown kits that have been out there are also mismatched leaving one line longer where you adjust them.
Best was the Napa lines. There are some posts on here with the correct Napa part numbers.
Other than that, take the valve out of your distribution block near the Master Cylinder. With Drum brakes it is 70% front and 30% rear. You now want 50-50 other wise you will never get all the full benefit of the new disks other than your axle won't fall out when it breaks.
The emergency brake line are way too ling. The Crown kits that have been out there are also mismatched leaving one line longer where you adjust them.
Best was the Napa lines. There are some posts on here with the correct Napa part numbers.
Other than that, take the valve out of your distribution block near the Master Cylinder. With Drum brakes it is 70% front and 30% rear. You now want 50-50 other wise you will never get all the full benefit of the new disks other than your axle won't fall out when it breaks.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,152
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From: Minnesota
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I went the KJ route. Everything BUT the brake line and emergency brake cables work. The KJ brake line fittings are Metric. I cut the flare off and swapped in an Imperial line nut and then double flared the line again. THEY are very hard lines so use a really good flare tool. The emergency brake line are way too ling. The Crown kits that have been out there are also mismatched leaving one line longer where you adjust them. Best was the Napa lines. There are some posts on here with the correct Napa part numbers. Other than that, take the valve out of your distribution block near the Master Cylinder. With Drum brakes it is 70% front and 30% rear. You now want 50-50 other wise you will never get all the full benefit of the new disks other than your axle won't fall out when it breaks.
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 2,282
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From: central IN
Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0
I got my stuff off of a zj at the junkyard. I took the calipers, rotors, pads, backing plates, backing plate bolts, and disconnected the soft lines at the hard line, leaving them attached to the caliper. you will need longer wheel studs of you have aluminum wheels. I did the conversion with a set of canyon wheels and barely had enough lugnut thread engagement to be comfortable. I ultimately put zj wheel studs on it. had I known beforehand I wouldve grabbed them off the donor jeep, as well. I had $62 in everything including core charges. take a set of rotors with you if you go to the junkyard.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,152
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From: Minnesota
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I got my stuff off of a zj at the junkyard. I took the calipers, rotors, pads, backing plates, backing plate bolts, and disconnected the soft lines at the hard line, leaving them attached to the caliper. you will need longer wheel studs of you have aluminum wheels. I did the conversion with a set of canyon wheels and barely had enough lugnut thread engagement to be comfortable. I ultimately put zj wheel studs on it. had I known beforehand I woukdve grabbed them off the donor jeep, as well. I had $62 in everything including core charges. take a set of rotors with you if you go to the junkyard.
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,479
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From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
I got my stuff off of a zj at the junkyard. I took the calipers, rotors, pads, backing plates, backing plate bolts, and disconnected the soft lines at the hard line, leaving them attached to the caliper. you will need longer wheel studs of you have aluminum wheels. I did the conversion with a set of canyon wheels and barely had enough lugnut thread engagement to be comfortable. I ultimately put zj wheel studs on it. had I known beforehand I wouldve grabbed them off the donor jeep, as well. I had $62 in everything including core charges. take a set of rotors with you if you go to the junkyard.