fedx95

1993 XJ 5.5" Lift 36" Military tires.

I busted my XJ D44 a few days ago. The pinion bearing went and locked up the driveshaft messing up a few things. I'm going to the junkyard and I could get an 8.25 or something else that requires custom fab. Im also running really narrow military tires with bushwacker fender flares meaning I was looking into getting wheel spacers as well as rims with less backspacing to get the wheels out.


My question:

Since I am doing an axle swap, why don't I go all out.
I am thinking of getting a rear dodge d60. Its about 7" wider which will put me on the width that I am looking for.
All I would need to do would be torch off the leaf spring mounts and reweld them to the correct width. I will also be getting rims obviously.
I might have to relocate the shock mounts and d60 yoke is the same as the 44 so my driveshaft should work assuming the length is alright.

Don't worry about the front thats something in progress as well.
Are their any flaws to my plan?

MountiansRcool

no. but its alot more work than it sounds. theres a whoal lot of little things. just make sure u know what ur getting into

Garvin

I would skip the Dana 60 and go with either a shaved 14 bolt or Sterling 10.25. I prefer the Sterling as it has the same ground clearance as a shaved 14 bolt and a cast in truss to the center section but there is less aftermarket support for it.

As for installing any rear axle, they're all essentially the same for the rear install wise. Make sure the bearings and brakes are good, weld on the spring mounts and shock mounts and get a drive shaft for her and you're good to go. The Dana 60 will have a longer nose than the 44 so you will probably have to get the drive shaft shortened.

Just a little tid bit of info on widths. 68" is about as wide as you will find in the rear axle on one ton trucks (~8" wider than stock). You can find as narrow as around 64" wide one tons factory so you have a choice. Dana 44 fronts have a few different widths but Dana 60 fronts (assuming SRW here) are pretty much al 69.5" from the factory.

Jarrett

What're you gonna do for the front?

edit: Sorry didn't read thoroughly enough but I'd still wouldn't mind hearing your plans for the front.

xjmarc

I moved my axle back almost 2" and still had to shorten my shaft almost 3" but I had a D35. You can get a 1310 yoke for a D60, not sure on a 14b or sterling but those yokes are around 100 bucks and up. Easier to run a conversion joint.

Aljay

If you do the sterling be sure and weld the tubes to the center. They will spin the tubes . Other than getting a real limited slip and the afore mentioned welding beat on it .

fedx95

For the front i'm thinking a dodge d60. Looks like ill be able to reuse my trackbar at least and maybe some other stuff.

Does anyone know the width of the leaf spring perches on the rear of a D60, i can't find that anywhere.

Conversion joint? ill do some searching but please elaborate on that.

im running 16" rims so I should be able to clear the drums.

Does anyone know the width between upper and lower control arms for the front?

xjmarc

Spring perches vary by make, model and year so plan on cutting them off and welding on new ones. I personally don't like the unit bearings on Dodge axles or any for that matter but the shafts are plenty strong.
A conversion joint or bastard joint has two different sized caps. Like 1310 on one end for the drive shaft and the others 1330 or 1350. Like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-460X-Dana-...60553551468%26

fedx95

Getting the rear d60 tomorrow. The spring perches are the same width so I will be able to reuse my leaf pack. I plan on reinforcing the leaf spring mounts.
I'm thinking it might be a good idea to get a solid overload leaf to reinforce the leaf pack.

Excellent link xjmarc I will be getting one of those.

If anyone has a dodge d60 (94-2001) and can measure the distance between the control arm (both upper and lower) that would be great.

xjmarc

You won't be able to use the factory control arm set up. It's wider and mounts a bit different. Best to cut it off and start from scratch so you know it's right.
Why do you want an overload leaf, do you like jarring your teeth out and having no articulation? Keep in mind the axle is unsprung weight so you don't need heavier springs to compinsate for it.

Garvin

Dodge Dana 60 fronts are garbage, I'd stay far away from them. You are either going to be getting the axle disconnect style with no lockouts or the passenger side drop. You're much better off finding a Ford Dana 60 front and should be able to get the matching Sterling rear for another $100 or so. I got my '89 Ford kingpin Dana 60HP and Sterling combo for $600 deliver to my door and that's with 4.10's, LSD rear, and most of it was new inside the axles. The only thing I had to do was replace one wheel cylinder, swap to SRW hubs (traded a guy my DRW for SRW) and replaced the front calipers and pads for piece of mind, so less than $700 into the axles (this doesn't include the brackets though as everyones setup is different).

fedx95

I don't mind the axle disco at all. However, what benefits do lockouts have over the auto locking style?
I have to go to the junkyard because with my custom long arms I might be able to salvage some of the bracketry. Ford will require more fab. I'll have to go the junkyard, see it in person And reweigh my options

93XJLI

The disco axle is weak as hell, you don't want it. Lots of guys are running hubs in the front of buggies now instead of lockouts, new stuff is pretty stout. The lockouts are really nice to be able to drive home on broken axles or if you have an unbalanced front ds it won't spin on the highway.

fedx95

What is weak about the disco axle? Does the collar like to snap or something? I know most people dislike it because its inconvenient to have but what exactly breaks?

SeriousOffroad

Dodge axles are really not the best option. They use unit bearing hubs and lack the aftermarket support you'll be looking for.

Why not rebuild your rear and add some better quality internals?